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  #1  
Old 04-01-2019, 11:56 AM
Jason Rogers Jason Rogers is offline
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Default 14x6 Rally ii balancing

My tire shop is saying they cant balance my rally iis because they don't have an adapter. That the wheels are centered by the lugs and not a hub. Shouldnt they have that adapter? Otherwise you can't do anything from 1960s through 80s right?

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Old 04-01-2019, 12:43 PM
68tpls400 68tpls400 is offline
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A lot of the modern shops are saying that these days. Just try to find someone who can balance Honeycombs the correct way...

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Old 04-01-2019, 01:04 PM
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unruhjonny unruhjonny is offline
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My knee-jerk reaction is that you need to find another shop.

A good shop should be able to do this, AND offer to static balance so that no weights are on the outside of the wheel...

Sorry that my post may not be any help.

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1970 Formula 400
Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior
A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car.
Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left.


1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing)
2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs)
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Old 04-01-2019, 01:10 PM
Jason Rogers Jason Rogers is offline
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What is static balance?

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Old 04-01-2019, 07:33 PM
Jason Rogers Jason Rogers is offline
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Anyone know of a shop in the York, PA area?

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  #6  
Old 04-01-2019, 11:47 PM
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unruhjonny unruhjonny is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Rogers View Post
What is static balance?
your shop should know this;
I was first offered it after repainting my Rally II's - I wasn't going to use trim rings, so the shop offered to "static balance" my wheels, which as I was told, kept the weights to the inside of the wheel - so none were seen on the outside.

I cringe a little bit every time I see steel wheel weights attached to the outter edge of an aluminum wheel...

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1970 Formula 400
Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior
A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car.
Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left.


1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing)
2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs)
  #7  
Old 04-02-2019, 11:17 AM
1stGenFB 1stGenFB is offline
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My local mechanic balanced mine. a few of those stick on weights have come off. I can't see there is any degradation of ride quality though

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Old 04-02-2019, 12:38 PM
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unruhjonny unruhjonny is offline
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the procedure that was desribed to me as "static balance" put the clip on weights on my (steel Rally II) wheels only on the inside lip.

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1970 Formula 400
Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior
A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car.
Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left.


1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing)
2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs)
  #9  
Old 04-02-2019, 06:42 PM
f-bodynut f-bodynut is offline
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Static balance is like slicing the tire in half horizontally in two pieces (if it were bolted on the car) and making the top half and the bottom half equal in weight. Static imbalance is the type most noticeably felt by a driver, it's basically the up and down vibration of the tire as it spins. . Back in the day before modern electronic balancers all tires were just static balanced. Dynamic balance is how all modern tires are balanced and superior to static. Dynamic balance is like slicing the tire ( if it were bolted on the car) both horizontally and vertically into 4 equal pieces and making each piece equal in weight. Dynamic balancing eliminates both the up and down vibration of the tire as it spins as well as the side to side vibration of the tire as it spins. Modern computer balancers dynamic balance but will also have a static mode.
The old bubble balancers static balanced tires, so did the old on car balancers but they static balanced the tire, wheel, and brake drum or disc as one assembly. When doing a CORRECT static only balance you can use just 1 weight but it must be an adhesive weight placed dead CENTER of the wheel. Back in the bubble balancer days you typically used either 2 or 4 equal sized weights when static balancing placed directly across from each other one on the inside lip and one on the outside lip of the wheel. The reason you split the weight and placed a weight on each side of the wheel was so as NOT to create a side to side imbalance. You did this because you had no way of knowing whether the heavy spot was in the center of the tire or to one side or the other and you did not want to create a side to side imbalance. So the only way to correctly static balance without dynamically unbalancing a tire and not have a weight showing on the outside is to use one adhesive weight dead center. MOST tire shops now have no idea how to correctly static balance or even what it means. The computer balancers have an inside weight reading display and and outside weight reading display because they are dynamic balancers. When switched to static mode you only get one weight reading and it displays on the inside lip display screen of the machine. That does NOT mean the weight goes on the inside lip, look at the picture of weight placement examples on the front of the balancer, it shows it in the middle of the wheel. The tire guy doesn't know any better and since the reading is showing on the inside lip display he just hammers a weigh to the inside lip and creates a dynamic imbalance by making the inside lip heavier than the outside. The balancer will still come up with zero's or close when he repsins because it is only checking up and down vibration on static mode not side to side vibration. Even though he dynamically imbalanced it he corrected the static imbalance which is felt most prevalently and typically gets away with it.
When mounting a wheel on the balancer the wheel needs to be correctly centered or you are not really balancing it. Depending on the type of wheel you back cone, front cone, or use a flange plate. When using a cone the wheel must have a center hole that is truly centered in the wheel and round. If the wheel is made in such a way it doesn't have a center hole that is truly centered and round you use a flange plate which is just a plate with studs that you bolt it to just like it was on the car and the plate has a round center hole that is truly centered. Rally 2 centers were stamped and then welded in the outer rim so the center hole may not really be centered. The hole also has three notches stamped in the hole for the centercap. The best way on a rally 2 would be a flange plate. I have found the center hole on most rally 2's is close enough to center to front cone them without issue. It typically takes an ounce or more of imbalance before a normal driver even feels anything and modern balancers sense vibration down to 1/4 ounce which is far more accurate than they were balanced back in the day.
Kane
Morrow Tire


Last edited by f-bodynut; 04-02-2019 at 07:07 PM.
  #10  
Old 04-02-2019, 06:47 PM
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indymanjoe indymanjoe is offline
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^^ Great post. I knew what it was kinda but this cleared it up.

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  #11  
Old 04-02-2019, 08:27 PM
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unruhjonny unruhjonny is offline
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@ F-body nut, that's why after looking into it I rmay have seemed to step back a bit in calling it "being told this was a static balance" or something of the sort.

Thanks for your lengthy reply!

__________________
1970 Formula 400
Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior
A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car.
Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left.


1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing)
2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs)
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