[dataway]

Anyone had any luck buying some yardage from Legendary and recovering their console door, arm rests etc? (68 GTO).

I've already replaced the arm rest pads with the nice ones sold by Ames, and the console door with one of those nasty foam ones. But I have some good cores I'd like to experiment with ... specially the console lid.

Doable?

[tjs72lemans]

I did this on my Camaro. It turned out decent. Not sure about armrests, but I did that on my 55 Chevy and they look good. Easier looking than if I tried that on my Pontiac though.

[Shiny]

It was years back (everything was) but I recovered a lid for my 70. I don't remember the source of the material and had no experience but it turned out "good enough" for me.

Some photos attached.

As I recall, was a lot of heat gun and contact cement. I do not recall having to replace the foam core, which would have made it more challenging.

Mike

[dataway]

Oh I think that looks wonderful ... better than the foam crap part I just bought. I still have a great core for the lid and rests, foam still good. Wonder if I should try stapling the vinyl on to the lid core like the originals? Plastic has to be pretty brittle by now.

I figure if I bought a half yard it would be enough to cover everything and still experiment ... like using the absolute most heat I can get away with.

[Shiny]

I have more pics if it would help you but definitely something you can take on.

Staples might hold well but I had to work hard to get the material to stretch and "shrink" at the tight corners.

I think the biggest variable is the material. I used seat covering vinyl that had a woven cloth backing to provide strength. If you look at the pic of the original after removing it, I don't see any reinforcing fabric. This would make sense to allow the vinyl to be stretched much easier but I don't know where you would find it in a color and grain that would match your console and/or seats.

I used to build RC planes and have a "sealing iron" with adjustable temperature for the heat-shrink covering. I may have used this to iron at the corners on the backside. But I definitely used good quality contact cement to bind it. The excess can be removed with solvent if you are as messy as I am.

I did remove the old vinyl from the foam using a heat gun. That was slow and tedious but important to retain all the factory foam. Mine cooperated and I only have one divot I chose to accept. I don't know what material could be used to repair damage to the foam...that would be another interesting brain teaser.

Good luck!

Mike

[dataway]

I assume Legendary supplies the typical seat vinyl. Jeez I'm so curious what can be done ... wonder if a person could sand off the fabric backing, or maybe enough to cut the fibers ... like wearing out a pair of jeans.

Think I'll order a half yard of Ivy Gold from Ames next time I put an order in ... I assume it's Legendary, same part number. $36 I think for a half yard.

[Shiny]

Talk to Legendary about it? I've been known to give bad advice and my memory is guided by just a few remaining brain cells. Legendary is certainly knowledgeable about stretching their material.

Maybe Just Dashes or a similar dash/console restoration company could guide you on material and process?

If you could DIY recover the console, now that would be impressive!

[mzbk2l]

I had an upholstery shop do the center console on my Bonneville SSEi when the original vinyl cracked and started irritating my arm. I think it cost me $70 and that center console arm rest became my favorite part of the car!

[dataway]

Now that that the car is nearing completion I'm loving having the time to try some things. I'll give anything a shot twice.

[nashcar]

Upholstery shops have piles of material. I left one with my guy to cover. Cost $25 the next day.

[rambow]

Most vinyl is called 2 way stretch... basically meaning it stretches more one way than the other. When laying out templates for seat covers, you want to be mindful of the stretch direction, different positions cushions use it differently.

There is also 4 way stretch vinyl... meaning its equally stretchy all directions. This stuff is used for motorcycle seats, and situations that require more stretch, and is usually "thinner" to help with the stretch.

It can be had in various grain patterns "Madrid" Grain being the generic name for what gm used in most 60's cars.

A few years ago i redid the armrests in my 68 using 4-way vinyl.
It was my first attempt at this, I watched a bunch of videos before hand which definitely helped.

They turned out "OK", but all the inside & outside turns definitely make it challenging and there were for sure a few "pinches/folds visible on the outside and bottom edge, even after they were installed (though you'd have to be looking real close).

If you are so inclined, I would call a few local shops and see if they will sell you some 4-way stretch and give it a shot.

You are going to want to use a GOOD adhesive.
3M Super Rattle can stuff is NOT going to hold long term.

DAP Weldwood HHR High temp glue for Landeau Tops is what I use for EVERYTHING and swear by it. Its meant to be sprayed, but i brush it on.

[dataway]

I've got a gallon of extra Weldwood left over from doing the top and other projects, yep that stuff is great when applied correctly.

Would be hard to explain, but when the time comes I'm going to attempt to make a kind of sheet metal anchor point for the vinyl that uses the mounting screw holes and gives a good vertical surface to clamp the vinyl to. Yes it will waste some vinyl cutting it big enough to reach this central anchor but it might really help stretching the vinyl with no creases.

Think something like a small inverted metal shoe box screwed to the bottom of the rest .. stretch the vinyl over the foam and around the bottom to the edges of the box ... clamp, stretch, clamp until it's as smooth as I can get it.

Stretch it, clamp it, let it sit a few days to conform, then take it back off, apply the glue, reclamp it in place.