[ftwmlp]

Entering uncharted waters by trying to remove my dash pad & Rally Gauge Cluster (1966 GTO). Read at least a dozen posts on this forum which were most helpful. However, I still don't know exactly how many studs/speed nuts to expect, found only the one on the far right (pax) side, which many folks pointed out was often missed. Got the bracket to the steering column which was also pointed out as a "gotcha" and every other screw/bolt I can find. Steering column can be moved down approx 3". I know at least one previous owner had it all apart at one point, looks like one of the "spring clips" (for lack of a better description) is missing over the gauge cluster, only four visible.

Sure seems like something is still holding it on? Before I go all caveman on it, thought I'd better ask for advice. Any tips or tricks from past experience would be most appreciated.

Mike Pearson

[66sprint6]

Be sure to unbolt the steering column plate at the firewall. You won't be able to drop the column down far enough to remove the bezel without doing that.
My dash pad was held on with a single nut on the passenger side. I replaced it with a used one that was in fantastic shape and it had the same condition.

[2015XDRIVE]

I just pulled mine out of my 66 to repair tach. As mentioned before drop the steering column all the way to floor. Disconnect speedo cable and (unknown to me until now) the wiring harness has two clips above the gauge cluster that are preventing the assembly from coming out of dash. Good luck!

[Peter Serio]

After you remove the pad. There is a series of Phillips screws all the around the perimeter of the bezel. They all point threads up towards the sky. So you need to lay down on the carpet looking up. Also in behind the gauge housing attached right beside the speedometer cable you should find this bracket. If someone has been in there before it my not even be there. It is often left out as it's kind of a pain in the b**t to get back on. It serves 2 functions, a support for the housing and B it's a ground strap. Kind of an important piece.

It connects the backside of the metal gauge housing to the heavy gauge steel bracket which the column is bolted to. Hence the need to lower the steering column. It is not easy to access and you can't see it from underneath the dash.


Also understand, you need to remove the radio and the heater control cables (all 3). And, of course un-plug all the wiring. I would label everything if you don't have a good memory on the wiring part.

[Peter Serio]

The padded top vinyl is the first thing that needs to come off and it's the last thing you put back after you are all done. Be VERY careful after 54 years underneath the windshield the vinyl will be VERY brittle. It is held on by 3 or 4 of the chrome plated Phillips screws that go underneath the top rolled edge of the bezel. (The ones that point threads towards the sky.) Also remove your cardboard glovebox inner liner. That is so you can see what you are doing. There are at least 2 & possibly 3 threaded studs with machine nuts on the back of the pad. You have to get in behind the steel painted part of your metal dash to see them. There is one on the far right and I think one on the far left side. They have nuts on the studs. The studs are all welded to the metal structure of the dash pad. For all 1966 A body cars across the top under your windshield GM had 5 or 6 large spring steel metal "clips." These clips slide into large holes in the steel part of the cowl; just behind the defroster duct slots. You have to tug the pad towards you to un-clip these. The clips are suppose to stay on the pad support (underneath). Sometimes they fall off when you are pulling on the pad but most often they will stick in the dash. So much so that I have had many people crack their pad trying to pull it off when the clips are stuck. (They freeze in place after being there for years, not moved.)

[ftwmlp]

Thanks to everyone who has contributed so far, the advice and knowledge so willingly shared on this forum is a blessing to those of us with the skill level of the Abominable Snowman. The tip about the steering column was certainly something I would never have come up with myself.

I have all the dash harness removed for replacement and all the heater controls and radio out in conjunction with replacing an early gen Vintage Air system.

I can only find one threaded stud/nut, the one on the far right (pax) side. Seems like there should be at least one on the left (driver) side as well, but I will be d---ed if I can find it. There a several holding the GTO emblem and grab rail on, on the right side as well, but seem to have no connection to the pad.

I guess it comes down to trying to overcome those spring steel clips, don't look forward to how that is going to come out.

[ftwmlp]

Well, that the pad is finally out, in one piece no less. For anyone's future reference, this pad had only the one stud on the far right (pax) side. I looked at our host's catalog for a replacement pad (just in case, you understand) and in their description they say the repop has two studs, meaning you have to drill a hole on the left (dr) side. Even found the missing spring clip from the previous owner's work, resting in the instrument cluster.

Now that everything is apart (only broke one, wiper, switch), I guess I will bite the bullet on a new dash insert since this one is just a little tired looking.

Thanks again for all the advice, couldn't have been at this point without it
Mike Pearson

[randy1966GTO]

You are correct about the dash pad from our host, I had to drill the hole in the driver side. It went on easy and looks great, I did the walnut dash insert when I installed Vintage Air as well and it made a huge difference for me on the inside.

Did I see your car at Cars and Coffee Dallas a few years ago? Used to go when I had Corvettes but have not been there with the GTO yet.

Randy

[ftwmlp]

Randy, thanks for the info on the dash insert, I am looking hard at that.

I wish it could of been my car you saw, but unfortunately mine has been confined to storage or my garage addition since 2009.

[tallrandyb]

Following up to this thread since it seemed to be what people might search for: I created a list of steps (in order) that I followed to remove/repair/reinstall my 65 GTO instrument cluster, with a lot of additions. so maybe someone checking on how to add optional switches or wiring can see where it works in the sequence of steps.

Hope this is useful to someone, it helped me keep on track and not do things out of order (like if you go ahead and install the glovebox, you can't get to the pal nuts for the dash pad install!).

1. 1965 GTO Instrument Cluster Refurb
   1 https://www.gtoforum.com/threads/%E2...5/#post-919287 for reference!
   2 Disconnect power
   3 Remove floor mats
   4 Remove driver seat (for easier access)
   5 Remove steering wheel (mark column housing and steering wheel for alignment for re-install) (for easier access to cluster/under dash/etc)
   6 Remove glovebox (6 screws) and glovebox door (2 screws) for access
   7 Remove dash pad, check a youtube video for install, 2 nuts to right of cluster, then 3 screws underneath top of dash (need to check screw lengths/engagements before re-assembly)
   8 Remove ashtray, then AC vent with screw, then ashtray bracket with 4 screws (for access)
   9 Remove instrument cluster screws (these are mis-matched, need to check lengths/etc before reinstall
   10 Unplug as many lights as possible and label, unplug connectors for water, oil, gas
   11 Unscrew speedo cable, unscrew tach wire from nut, remove ground wire from back passenger end of dash (need to move somewhere else for reinstall!)
   12 Last light was the turn signal bulb right above steering column
   13 Disconnect vacuum hose pack, both AC/fan switch connectors, and mixer cable bracket so you can remove cable with cluster
   14 Remove lower steering column vanity bracket, loosen two column nuts to allow column to drop, wedge spacer in to push column down for cluster clearance
   15 Pull out cluster, last bulb was in the AC/fan section so install that first just before re-installing cluster
   16 remove AC ducting from face of vent system
   17 Remove radio
   18 Send radio for refurb + add bluetooth
   19 BEGIN REPAIRS/REASSEMBLY STEPS
   20 remove and replace front speaker
   21 repair/insure operation of AC clutch and master and fan switches in cluster (refer to 65 GTO AC switches photo collection)
   22 Replace instrument cluster lights with LEDs
   23 Replace glove box light with LED
   24 Add Antenna and speaker dash switches: take measurements and create templates to prepare for drilling
   25 refer to Chassis shop manual on reviewing how to reinstall/reconnect wiring/etc if needed
   26 Check best routing under/around AC ducting for rear camera and rear speaker and power antenna up/down wires to new cluster switches, along with antenna cable to radio
   27 Measure/mark locations to drill holes for two new dash switches based on photos
   28 Drill and mount new switches on cluster
   29 Mount new rear speaker, connect to wiring and ground, and install protective box
   30 test front camera location and initial power wiring to see how to route around instrument cluster and connect to cigar power and accessory feed
   31 Mount rear camera and connect to cabling and verify operation
   32 Apply new double-sided tape seals around Vent ducting AC mounting square
   33 install radio
   34 install AC ducting with four screws, seal to left and right ball outlets with duct tape, install duct to upper center dash
   35 BEGIN cluster re-install (setting on steering column) by routing temp door cable in to the right, then move cluster on/in dash to begin initial connects
   36 connect far right AC dash light and fan switch
   37 connect power antenna switch to antenna and power connectors; connect speaker switch to rear speaker wire, route speaker wiring down from switch to radio
   38 connect two speaker switch connectors to radio and existing radio connector that contains power and front speaker wires, plug in antenna cable
   39 special step for camera: route power and rear camera cables to avoid top cluster switches to prepare for pushing cluster fully into dash
   40 install cluster fully into dash, check wiring routing/clearances to insure nothing is pinched/twisted
   41 Connect vacuum hose pack, both master power and clutch switch connectors, and temp mixer cable bracket with hold down screw
   42 connect all 3 rally gauge connectors, install all 7 cluster illumination bulbs and the 4 indicator bulbs: brights, turn signal, battery and parking brake
   43 connect speedo cable, tach wire, and install dash ground along with camera power ground to post next to tach post
   44 Remove spacer wedge for column, tighten two column nuts insuring not pinching wiring; install lower steering column vanity bracket with nut
   45 Connect power, verify all functions, disconnect power
   46 shift cluster to fully installed; screw in instrument cluster (2nd and 4th top holes plus 4 bottom holes): need to confirm best screw lengths for each location from screw collection
   47 Install ashtray bracket (4 screws), both lower AC vents with long screws, then ashtray
   48 Check front camera/pad alignment, then screw in dash pad (3 longer screws under cluster top in 1/3/5 position, then two pal nuts on passenger end)
   49 Install glovebox door 2 screws, insure glovebox light is properly installed and bulb is operational, then install glovebox 6 screws
   50 install steering wheel
   51 install drivers seat
   52 install floor mats
   53 reconnect power, test drive!