[carbking]

John - I have not personally seen the Daytona valve; however from sketches on their website it would appear that they acquired the rights to the old Parker Brothers valve.

The Parker Brothers valve had a trapezoidal neopreme wafer that was inserted into a machined cavity in the plunger, and it was impossible for the wafer to lodge cross-wise in the seat. I used thousands of the Parker Brother valves with no issues. I even had Paul custom-make some larger orifice valves for the AFB Carters. From memory, they are 0.111.

This is a totally different valve than the old Tomco "Duro 7" valve.

EDIT: A picture is worth how many words?

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Duro-7_valve.jpg

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Par...hers_valve.jpg

I have shown two views of the plunger on the Parker Brothers valve; one showing the encased neopreme wafer, the other from the side.

It is the separate wafer on the Duro-7 valve which can lodge.

Jon.

[My64GTO]

Les,

What was the final result? Did you fix the problem?

Originally Posted by Pontiac62

About a month ago I had a flooding problem. I got new needles, seats and floats.
Then when I started to drive it again, it wasn't running quite right, This time I discovered that the accelerator pump rod had gotten bent, was too short, and was holding the throttle plates open. Got that fixed, and it seemed to be OK.

So yesterday, we went to a car show. Ran OK until we got to the show and had to move the car. It did not want to start. was obviously was way too rich. After sitting all day it started fine, and we drove home. Got in the garage, and the gas smell was terrible. Popped the hood, and found gas leaking out of the top of the front carburetor.
So what am I missing. I set the floats according to the specs in the service manual. Are those still correct? Anyone have any Ideas, as I'm starting to get frustrated? Thanks for any suggestions.
Les

BTW, Happy Father's Day. I'll not be back here today

[Pontiac62]

Originally Posted by My64GTO

Les,

What was the final result? Did you fix the problem?

No final result yet. Still have the end carbs off, without a resolution. Driving with the center carb only right now. The car is not running quite right and I need to get it running better before putting it back together.

Haven't had much time to spend on it lately as I've had some medical problems and minor surgery. Also need some cooler weather to spend time in the garage.

Thanks all for the replies. I will let you know when I finally get it resolved.
Les

[61-63]

Originally Posted by carbking

John - I have not personally seen the Daytona valve; however from sketches on their website it would appear that they acquired the rights to the old Parker Brothers valve.

The Parker Brothers valve had a trapezoidal neopreme wafer that was inserted into a machined cavity in the plunger, and it was impossible for the wafer to lodge cross-wise in the seat. I used thousands of the Parker Brother valves with no issues. I even had Paul custom-make some larger orifice valves for the AFB Carters. From memory, they are 0.111.

This is a totally different valve than the old Tomco "Duro 7" valve.

EDIT: A picture is worth how many words?

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Duro-7_valve.jpg

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Par...hers_valve.jpg

I have shown two views of the plunger on the Parker Brothers valve; one showing the encased neopreme wafer, the other from the side.

It is the separate wafer on the Duro-7 valve which can lodge.

Jon.

Jon my memory isn't what it used to be. I was in my shop the other day and the last several batches of needles and seats I got from Daytona parts were not the wafer type but were hex shaped aluminum needles with a rubber type (ethanol friendly) button on the end. These work well and I've never had a problem with them but they have the .085 seat so won't work for a high performance engine someone plans to go down the track with. I still have quite a few of these. It has been some years since I've used wafer type from anywhere but Daytona Parts did sell them some years ago.

John

[60sstuff]

Ok, I have been reading this thread and have to ask.

I’m not a carburetor specialist, but i have rebuilt my 66 Tri-Power carbs twice in the 28 years I’ve owned the car. Absolutely no issues with the stock needle and seat.

My question is this ...... were the Pontiac service departments overwhelmed back in the day with all the Tri-powers coming in with needle and seat problems?

Just curious of the gentleman that my have witnessed this?

BTW, lm running what’s close to the octane they used 50+ years ago and a good fuel filter.

Chris.

[Jack Gifford]

Originally Posted by 60sstuff

... My question is this ...... were the Pontiac service departments overwhelmed back in the day with all the Tri-powers coming in with needle and seat problems?...

Not to my knowledge- and I've been a Pontiac fan a little longer than Tri-Powers have existed. (see my post #18)

[61-63]

I would agree with Jack's #18 post. IMO on the vast majority of carbs I've rebuilt or restored I could have probably just reused the needles and seats. I replaced them only because of the ethanol currently in the fuel we have and fear that the tips on the needles would start to melt or degrade and not seal.

[Pontiac62]

My last report indicated that I was running with just the center carburetor. A friend (retired mechanic) was visiting the day I received my rebuild kit for the center carb. He insisted on rebuilding the carb for me. After that was done, he looked at the distributor and found some issues that bothered him. He found the wire to the coil with cracked insulation, loose condenser, and the point set with a warped base plate. (New from NAPA) After replacing all that, we test drove the car and found it running very well.
Of course he violated his cardinal rule of not working on two thingss , so we don't know which was the cause of the poor running condition
After driving the car that way for a while, I thought it was time to tackle the end carbs. I had acquired used OEM brass floats and standard type needle/seat sets with 0.086” orifice (as suggested by Kenth) for the end carbs.
After installing them, I test drove the car. And found it running well with no gas leaks or flooding.

Thanks for all who made suggestions and comments. It gave me a lot of info to sift through, and in the end it was successful.

[aceaceca]

I have no where near the expertise that 3 or 4 gentlemen here have on carburetors. I give my two cents worth anyway. No one mentioned your use of composite floats and the fact that they are tested for replacement by weighing them. If they become saturated with fuel they sink too low and your adjustment is way off. I personally avoid their use. I have used the Grosse Jets in an 3 carb Amal set up and a Quadrajet. I was amazed how they smoothed out the idle. I would use them again in a tripower if I had them. I believe excess fuel pressure is probably the culprit in a lot of flooding or hot start problems. The factory air conditioned 65 GTO's have a return to the tank line and used the fuel filter type with a return spigot on the top. It has a 180 degree looped steel line that redirects the hose back down to the frame crossmember where the inlet line comes through. The return line is right beside the feed line and it returns to the fuel tank. In your situation, I would get brass floats, a fuel pressure regulator, and be sure I had a good fuel filter on there. Good luck in fixing your carbs.