[gtobird]

I'm doing a complete tune up on my 68 wagon and it has a 350 built to HO specs. It had Bosch Platinum plugs in it, but I'm thinking about going to AC Delco plugs since that's what I always ran in my other Pontiac engines. Any comments on which plugs to use? R45S maybe?

Also, I had a new and wonderful treat. While setting up the carb I found that I had only about 14" of vacuum at idle. I discovered a major leak at the PCV valve. The rubber grommet that holds it in place was so dried out that it actually rattled as it was very loose. In trying to get the PCV out, the top of the rubber piece disintegrated, but the rest of it is still in the hole. Because it's so rock hard, the part of the rubber below the hole prevents it from being pulled upward and out of the hole. Any thoughts on how to get it out? If it falls in the hole or falls apart inside the valley pan, I'm in for a long day of screwing around with removing the intake, etc. At the moment, my thought is to use a metal wall anchor like you would use for a large picture. I plan to insert it in the hole and then expand it under the grommet. I could then pull upward on the anchor. To make the rubber more pliable, I plan to heat it with a heat gun and then use some light oil on the edges of the outer circumference of the grommet where it meets the hole in the valley pan. Again, I don't think I'll get too many shots at this before it crumbles.

Thanks
Old Joe

[68 Firebird]

Been Happy with R45S and Autolite 85's. Both are excellent and I run stock gap,
of .035 with HEI. Funny thing is probably, have enough on hand for the next few years!!
One day while checking my plugs I dropped one and it broke, always have spares!!!
Every time I need to add a part on Summit to get free shipping I choose plugs or an oil filter or air filter!

Gerry

[gtobird]

Originally Posted by 68 Firebird

Been Happy with R45S and Autolite 85's. Both are excellent and I run stock gap,
of .035 with HEI. Funny thing is probably, have enough on hand for the next few years!!
One day while checking my plugs I dropped one and it broke, always have spares!!!
Every time I need to add a part on Summit to get free shipping I choose plugs or an oil filter or air filter!

Gerry

Interesting that you are running a .035 gap. I run that in my other engines but they are original point type distributors. This car has a GM HEI in it. Is that what you have? I thought you needed to run .040 to .045 in an HEI.

[steve25]

You don’t need to run a .040” to .045” gap, but you can.
The .045” gap calls for a different plug then the original type with a flat washer.

[68 Firebird]

Gap was what I ran with points as well.
When I swapped to DUI HEI they recommended
Keeping gap the same. The gap is determined
by compression ratio not ignition source.


Just my experience.


Gerry

[nytrainer]

Originally Posted by gtobird

I'm doing a complete tune up on my 68 wagon and it has a 350 built to HO specs……

I’d love to have a ‘68 wagon! Tell us more about the engine. What heads (18?), cam, etc. Trans? Thanks

[VCho455]

To remove your bad grommet you could try holding a vacuum cleaner hose over the hole while you try to remove the rest of the grommet. Hopefully the suction will pull the pieces out.

I have doubts about whether or not heat is going to soften the rubber once it has hardened. I believe it's more likely to burn than flex.

As always just my opinions, which along with a ten spot will buy a cup of Joe just about anywhere.

[gtobird]

While I appreciate the suggestions for removing the grommet, I can't stress enough just how stuck this thing was. In no way could a vacuum cleaner have ever bound it tight enough to remove it. So here is the story:

1.) When I first tried to remove the PCV valve, the top of the grommet broke off, but the grommet remained in the hole. I did get the PCV valve out of the grommet, however the grommet now kept wanting to fall into the hole all the way since the top broke off. I then tried coating a 1/2" diameter lag screw with JB weld and putting it into the grommet hole. The grommet instantly fell all the way into the valley pan, but the bottom of the pan only let fall about 3/4" inches. At that point, I still have the lag screw in the hole with the JB weld and let it harden over night

2.) Day 2 and the JB weld actually stuck quite well considering the inside of the grommet had oil on it. I applied a lot of upward pull, but it resulted in the grommet now being stuck back in the valley pan hole and the bolt along with the JB Weld pulling out completey. At least the grommet was now back in the hole

3.) So now I reverted to the original idea I had. I purchased an 80 lb picture type wall hanger and replaced the short bolt in it with a long piece of threaded rod. I then slide an old piece of small diameter water pipe over the rod and welded the pipe to the top of the wall hanger and welded the bottom of the rod to the bottom tip of the wall hanger (see photo). I then put the wall hanger into the grommet, tighted the nut at the top and had it anchored pretty well. I would guess that I applied about 30 pounds of upward pull, but I didn't have the anchor tightened enough and eventually it pulled out of the grommet hole

4.) Next attempt - I straightened out the legs on the wall hanger and tried again, but had the same result. I was trying not to overtighten the hanger for fear of it becoming too wide and then having it stuck in the hole too

5.) Final attempt - I now cranked the nut about twice as much as I had in the past and at that point, I could tell the bottom of the anchor was very tight against the grommet. I lubed up the grommet real well with good old "3 in one oil". I then pulled with all my might straight up for about 20 seconds and nada!!! Now I'm starting to say things in my head that my priest wouldn't even want me to confess! Still, the tool held tight in the grommet and did not break. After looking at how far I could angle the tool, I decided to rock it and pull hard. To my surprise (and great relief), the grommet came out.

Attached is a picture of the tool that I made in case anyone else needs to make one. The pipe is 6" long and the threaded rod is 1/4" x 24", but 12" would have still been more than enough. The hanger is a Hillman #5.

Hope I don't ever need to do this again, but if I do, I now know where to start.

Photo shows, one of the extra new hangers I bought (3 in a pack), the replacement grommet and the hard as a rock broken grommet on the tool.

Old Joe

P.S. Oddly there were very few grommet pieces in the valley pan and what was in there easily vacuumed out with a small hose at the end of my shop vac hose.

[gtobird]

Originally Posted by nytrainer

I’d love to have a ‘68 wagon! Tell us more about the engine. What heads (18?), cam, etc. Trans? Thanks

You can read all about my car in this article:

https://www.motortrend.com/features/...iac-gto-wagon/

I just purchased the car last year. The 428 engine in the article was replaced with the original 350, but built to pretty much stock 350 HO specs. Everything else in the article is pretty much the same today. Just keep in mind that the car was built in 2005, so all this time later, it again has some things that I am working to refresh.

I plan to eventually replace the engine with a 68 Pontiac 400 built to HO specs, just like the one in my 68 Firebird convert. It's sitting on my engine stand right now whining about not being used.

Old Joe

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by gtobird

You can read all about my car in this article:

https://www.motortrend.com/features/...iac-gto-wagon/

I just purchased the car last year. The 428 engine in the article was replaced with the original 350, but built to pretty much stock 350 HO specs. Everything else in the article is pretty much the same today. Just keep in mind that the car was built in 2005, so all this time later, it again has some things that I am working to refresh.

I plan to eventually replace the engine with a 68 Pontiac 400 built to HO specs, just like the one in my 68 Firebird convert. It's sitting on my engine stand right now whining about not being used.

Old Joe

Cool! Looks great!

K

[gtobird]

I read quite a few posts regarding changing plugs in a GTO / Tempest and most people had difficulty with AC cars, therefore having to go through the front inner wheel housing on the passenger side.

Even though my car has AC, I was able to change all of the plugs from the topside. I have 3/8" wobble extensions, a 3/8" flex headed ratchet, and loads of adapters to attach them to my 1/2" ratchets.

The one trick I learned years ago was to take one of my spark plug sockets and remove the inner rubber liner. That way you can get it over the spark plug with a much greater angle and when you are up against the suitcase trying to remove a plug, it goes on nicely.

Total plug change time, about 2 1/2 hours and only one small hand scrape.

OJ