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  #1541  
Old 03-30-2023, 08:52 PM
Singleton Singleton is offline
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Why do you need a cam? Isn’t the one in the engine brand new with maybe a couple hours run time on it??

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  #1542  
Old 03-30-2023, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Singleton View Post
Why do you need a cam? Isn’t the one in the engine brand new with maybe a couple hours run time on it??
ya what Singleton said, how do we go from a leak on an oil filter adapter to the crankcase full of water from a timing cover gasket leak, then to "There was only a small leak at the thermostat housing. It’s putting major compression in the coolant system" to now what cam should I get for my third engine rebuild....... what's missing here

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  #1543  
Old 03-30-2023, 11:21 PM
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You need to slow down and assess what happened this time and determine what and who was at fault. If your exhaust wasn’t billowing white smoke just before you shut it off, then coolant was not getting into the combustion chambers. That rules out head gasket failure, and intake gasket leakage.

The gasket between the block and timing cover can leak around the coolant passages in the block and can allow the coolant to get into the oil pan. The coolant transfer tubes could have been omitted altogether or the O rings not installed on them but the resulting leak would have occurred immediately and the motor would have failed during break-in. You paid someone to replace that gasket which should have corrected the problem.

This all assumes everything was assembled correctly, ran fine during break-in and delivered to you without contaminated oil.

A head gasket leak typically leaks coolant into the cylinder and may weep down the side of the block also. A leaking intake gasket typically shows coolant puddles in the valley pan and leaks coolant into intake and exhaust ports that finds its way into the cylinders. Coolant turns to steam as the motor runs and a portion of it gets pushed out the tailpipe as thick white smoke and some leaks into the oil pan. No smoke, no coolant in the cylinders, no intake or head gasket issue.

There is always the outside chance the block was cracked through to a water jacket and leaked coolant internally. However, that would have occurred on initial startup and contaminated the oil during break-in.

Take it back to your builder.

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Last edited by NeighborsComplaint; 03-30-2023 at 11:49 PM.
  #1544  
Old 03-31-2023, 07:28 AM
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I just assume the cam went flat with oil and water mixing so much. He’s gonna rebuild it for free so…

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  #1545  
Old 03-31-2023, 09:31 AM
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dont make assumptions. based on the details provided, although still somewhat confusing, the cam/lifters should be fine. a small amount of coolant in the oil will make it cloudy after a short run, it doesnt mean the cam went flat or any other major damaged was caused from just a small amount of coolant in the oil for a short run time. the cam & everything simply needs to be inspected then go from there, don't buy parts that arent needed.

didnt you just go through selecting a new cam after the initial engine failure? why do you want to pick a different cam now for the same specs of the drive line?

  #1546  
Old 03-31-2023, 09:58 AM
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I know it seems crazy but after I got the oil filter adapter to stop it just starting pouring water. I could see bubbles around the timing cover and of course the water outlet so I assumed that was the leak. I wish you guys could see it because it’s been one thing after another. It was putting a small amount of water in the oil at first and then about the 4th of 5th time I cranked it it dumped ALL the water into the engine. When I went to open the radiator cap it blew it off,. This engine doesn’t have hours on it, it has like 15 minutes. I drove it to the end of the street and back and that’s it. My machinist is gonna rebuild it no matter what is wrong with it. He told me that I could go back roller if I paid the difference between the 60919. I just wanted to solicit advice about what some of you would use. There was a difference of opinions on what cam to use earlier. This isn’t my first rodeo with a Pontiac engine but my previous two were over 20 years ago. I have never built a max effort street Pontiac.

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  #1547  
Old 03-31-2023, 10:17 AM
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My head is spinning here.

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  #1548  
Old 03-31-2023, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGermanHam View Post
My head is spinning here.
Mine too. This has been a disaster. The first was my fault but this is just ridiculous

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  #1549  
Old 03-31-2023, 11:07 AM
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Dave - at this point I would plan to keep the 60919 whether it’s the one in there now after inspection or a new one if that one was damaged. Not only will a roller cost more, you’ll need the polymer distributor gear, different pushrods and of course roller lifters. And after all that you may get a ticking lifter. Why torture yourself with all that when you’ve already been down that road? Especially since this will be a street only car. Keep it simple and stick to the plan you had.

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  #1550  
Old 03-31-2023, 11:59 AM
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I would definitely stick with the 60919

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  #1551  
Old 04-07-2023, 08:41 PM
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Default Quick way to see if antifreeze is in the cylinders without doing a compression test

1) pull out ALL the spark plugs
2) coil wire disconnected
3) radiator cap off
4) a couple of helpers to watch

Pull ALL the spark plugs out and position one of your helpers on each side of the engine bay where they can see the spark plug HOLES.

You sit behind the wheel. Crank the engine over for two or three seconds - doesn't need to be too long.

If there is antifreeze in one of the cylinders, it will blow out, or at least blow mist out of the spark plug hole for THAT cylinder.

Good luck!

  #1552  
Old 04-07-2023, 09:11 PM
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If helpers directly beside engine, looked for soaked helpers.

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  #1553  
Old 04-07-2023, 09:34 PM
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Yeah it may look like they pee their pants LOL

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  #1554  
Old 04-17-2023, 05:39 PM
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I have been sick for a while so I didnt get to take the engine to the machinist until Thursday. My machinist says that upon preliminary inspection he sees no obvious signs so he is tearing into it (I think he started yesterday, said he was starting on Sunday at least) Hopefully it just was the oil filter housing leaking and milkshake mix was just the head gasket failing. If that turns out to be the case he is gonna pop new bearings and gaskets on it, check the cam and then tally ho

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  #1555  
Old 04-17-2023, 07:30 PM
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Good that it’s in pro hands now. The leaky adapter you fixed before the issue, right? This leaves the oil/coolant mystery

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  #1556  
Old 04-20-2023, 07:26 AM
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Your builder might be a stand up guy, but how many times are you going to have him rebuild it/fix it? The 'coincidences' are stacking up.

K, just saying what everyone else is thinking...

.

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  #1557  
Old 04-20-2023, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455 View Post
Your builder might be a stand up guy, but how many times are you going to have him rebuild it/fix it? The 'coincidences' are stacking up.

K, just saying what everyone else is thinking...

.
I blew the first one up. Totally my fault. If for some reason I don’t get satisfactory resolution I guess I will search for someone else but I doubt it will be necessary.

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  #1558  
Old 04-24-2023, 10:56 AM
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Pinhole in one of the cylinders. He is going to sleeve the block and replace bearings. Cam and lifters are undamaged

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  #1559  
Old 04-24-2023, 01:17 PM
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No charge?

Usually, that's caught when checking a block before a build?


.

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  #1560  
Old 04-24-2023, 01:22 PM
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No charge. The block came from a “dealer” who sells BOP blocks in Virginia. The block was said to be checked. It came wrapped in plastic with a tag that it had been checked. I had to pay extra for a virgin block.

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