[Half-Inch Stud]

Bolt length ought he a nominal length. What, like a 2" bolt length. 1.9" or so for the variety of measurable rod bolts.


TQ-Set Bolt stretch is the change in the bolt length. The 7/16 stuff , not so much concern with the 3/8 bolts huh.

Sooo, i tink 6 mil thru 8 mil change ought be the hot-spot for final TQ-Set of the 7/16 bolts. Who has the chart??

[charlie66]

Rod bolts from what ive experienced always vary in length. What i do is zero the gauge on 1 bolt and write down which rod and say the tang side is the zeroed one . Then keeping the gauge zeroed for that particular bolt, measure every other bolt and write down stating whether or not its minus or plus of the zero . Some will be plus some will be minus from that first zeroed bolt . Then you just add or subtract compensating off the zero. This way later down the road when you take the motor apart you cam measure the bolts again to see if they stretched or not.

[Gach]

Originally Posted by charlie66

Rod bolts from what ive experienced always vary in length. What i do is zero the gauge on 1 bolt and write down which rod and say the tang side is the zeroed one . Then keeping the gauge zeroed for that particular bolt, measure every other bolt and write down stating whether or not its minus or plus of the zero . Some will be plus some will be minus from that first zeroed bolt . Then you just add or subtract compensating off the zero. This way later down the road when you take the motor apart you cam measure the bolts again to see if they stretched or not.

So by doing that you compensate for different lengths..I get it.

[charlie66]

Originally Posted by Gach

So by doing that you compensate for different lengths..I get it.

yes, and you also don't go in blind when you disassemble the engine because you have the original bolt mapped out . All you do is zero that one again . And yes what if that one stretched ? Well you would know by measuring the rest if something is off . I doubt that all the bolts would be stretched so you would know .. I like checking them to see if there still ok . Just like i measure all my ring gaps and write them all down before i install them so i know if there collapsing or not .. haha

[Gach]

Yeah I definitely think I go stretch gauge root. For the ring cap I have a board set up over top of tool box all number for each cylinder and hang them on nails as I do them.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Have a nice day....awe Geez not the Double-Nut too !

20 seconds of Vibration to loose Fastener TQ. Must be some nasty Vibes, or orbital parts movement.
Makes a firm case for Dowel-Pins to restrict parts movement in (orbital) shear.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kx-DyuIcGGc&t=13s

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by Gach

Yeah I definitely think I go stretch gauge root. For the ring cap I have a board set up over top of tool box all number for each cylinder and hang them on nails as I do them.

In theory, I am with you. Stretch is a direct measurement and if done correctly, just has to be the most accurate. But in practice, it's a real PIA. I have the ARP branded stretch gauge. Not sure who makes it for them. It is hard to fit and manipulate during engine assembly. As mentioned, I don't have enough strength to pull 80-85 ft. lbs. which is needed to stretch the Molnar bolts to length with regular box wrenches. I do have the Snap-On high performance extra long box wrenches. They do at least make it possible. Still, with an electronic torque wrench with angle capability, I feel confident this method is accurate and much easier to do. As I mentioned, in my limited testing on 16 rods, 32 fasteners. All were within .001" stretch when measured using the torque angle method. So I think either method would be fine and both far superior and more accurate than straight torque.

[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

In theory, I am with you. Stretch is a direct measurement and if done correctly, just has to be the most accurate. But in practice, it's a real PIA. I have the ARP branded stretch gauge. Not sure who makes it for them. It is hard to fit and manipulate during engine assembly. As mentioned, I don't have enough strength to pull 80-85 ft. lbs. which is needed to stretch the Molnar bolts to length with regular box wrenches. I do have the Snap-On high performance extra long box wrenches. They do at least make it possible. Still, with an electronic torque wrench with angle capability, I feel confident this method is accurate and much easier to do. As I mentioned, in my limited testing on 16 rods, 32 fasteners. All were within .001" stretch when measured using the torque angle method. So I think either method would be fine and both far superior and more accurate than straight torque.

Have you ever looked into "torque wrench box wrench extensions"? The one problem some people have with them is the math that needs to be done to come up with the adjusted torque setting.

Stan

[Nobuddy]

Great stuff but don't use "peanut butter" for fastener lube unless you really know what you are doing.

[Gach]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

In theory, I am with you. Stretch is a direct measurement and if done correctly, just has to be the most accurate. But in practice, it's a real PIA. I have the ARP branded stretch gauge. Not sure who makes it for them. It is hard to fit and manipulate during engine assembly. As mentioned, I don't have enough strength to pull 80-85 ft. lbs. which is needed to stretch the Molnar bolts to length with regular box wrenches. I do have the Snap-On high performance extra long box wrenches. They do at least make it possible. Still, with an electronic torque wrench with angle capability, I feel confident this method is accurate and much easier to do. As I mentioned, in my limited testing on 16 rods, 32 fasteners. All were within .001" stretch when measured using the torque angle method. So I think either method would be fine and both far superior and more accurate than straight torque.

I can’t imagine I mean I have the snap on torque wrench when doing head bolts, it’s pretty long can’t imagine trying to do rod bolts with stretch gauge and a long wrench.

[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by Gach

I can’t imagine I mean I have the snap on torque wrench when doing head bolts, it’s pretty long can’t imagine trying to do rod bolts with stretch gauge and a long wrench.

Gach,
Torque wrenchs come in many different sizes and torque ratings. The first time I ever used a box wrench extension was 55+ years ago when I was in the Army working on Nuclear missiles and torquing things in so very tight places.

Stan

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

In theory, I am with you. Stretch is a direct measurement and if done correctly, just has to be the most accurate. But in practice, it's a real PIA. I have the ARP branded stretch gauge. Not sure who makes it for them. It is hard to fit and manipulate during engine assembly. As mentioned, I don't have enough strength to pull 80-85 ft. lbs. which is needed to stretch the Molnar bolts to length with regular box wrenches. I do have the Snap-On high performance extra long box wrenches. They do at least make it possible. Still, with an electronic torque wrench with angle capability, I feel confident this method is accurate and much easier to do. As I mentioned, in my limited testing on 16 rods, 32 fasteners. All were within .001" stretch when measured using the torque angle method. So I think either method would be fine and both far superior and more accurate than straight torque.

This is about 85 dollars and folks can use it with a regular long handled ratchet and gives the degrees of rotation.
That is, if they don't like the simple 31$ tool link I have put up.
Those Snap-On digital torque wrenches with angle capability are EXPENSIVE.
https://www.amazon.com/Durofix-Digit...3&sr=8-23&th=1

If guys do not want to use the adapter type Gear Wrench makes one for 250 $
https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-12...s%2C203&sr=8-5

[mgarblik]

This is an impressive tool from what I have seen in videos and a couple students that have them. It does it all and less than half the cost of a similar Snap-On version.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...nch-64916.html

Yes, I know it's Harbor Freight, but their top line tools have improved remarkably in the last 5 years.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

This is an impressive tool from what I have seen in videos and a couple students that have them. It does it all and less than half the cost of a similar Snap-On version.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...nch-64916.html

Yes, I know it's Harbor Freight, but their top line tools have improved remarkably in the last 5 years.

Yes they have. If you look at their "high end" stuff most of it comes from Taiwan, not mainland China.
Taiwan has been making good tools for awhile now. Get them cheap at the pawn shop. Millwrighting, carrying tools I lose them from time to time.
So I keep the good stuff at home.

[Gach]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

This is an impressive tool from what I have seen in videos and a couple students that have them. It does it all and less than half the cost of a similar Snap-On version.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...nch-64916.html

Yes, I know it's Harbor Freight, but their top line tools have improved remarkably in the last 5 years.

I have the Harbor freight floor jack. Its almost a duplicate of the snap on one, only Yellow..infected they got sued by Snap on. It’s probably made by same company. Still have the Snap on one can’t really tell the difference

[Gach]

I watch video of Big Chief using his, just so much more you can do with it that makes life easier Makes the Snap on one I have obsolete. Got a birthday coming up. But I’m thinking do I really need it..LOL

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

No.

Micrometer-style torque wrenches should be turned to the lowest torque setting on the tool, not to "0".

For example, a 50--250 ft/lb torque wrench would be turned down to 50 ft/lbs when you're done using it, not turned down to "zero".

"Split-beam" torque wrenches are also "clickers" but they don't need to be turned down at all. They can be left with the torque set to any value.


Absolutely true.

However, don't coat the underside of the washer that goes against the casting/forging. Coat only the side of the washer that bears against the fastener.

Coating the casting- or forging-side of the washer can lead to over-tightening the fastener.

And calibrated at least once a year! If you drop a micrometer style torque wrench DO NOT use it again until it has been recalibrated. We calibrated ALL of our torque wrenches once a week, but we used them multiple times a day, five days a week.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

This is an impressive tool from what I have seen in videos and a couple students that have them. It does it all and less than half the cost of a similar Snap-On version.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...nch-64916.html

Yes, I know it's Harbor Freight, but their top line tools have improved remarkably in the last 5 years.

Mike, all the ICON and Quinn products I have seen and used seem to be quality products. All the torque wrenches I have purchased recently are CDI. Harbor Freight is sourcing more and more of their higher end hand tools from Taiwan verses the PRC. The tools I have purchased that were produced in Taiwan are excellent in quality AND durability. A really nice brand I’ve been using lately is Tekton.