[mchell]

Just installed my Hrpartsnstuff anti roll bar.....birthday present to myself

All I can say is WOW!

The quality of this kit is incredible. Transformed my old slug 100%

Leaves absolutely straight. Car handles better than I ever expected....awesome on the street!

Can’t wait to hit the track....I feel some 60’ improvement forthcoming

[Scott65]

They make nice stuff. Enjoy

[Mike Davis]

I am running the same style but the BMR brand. It replaced a weld in anti-roll bar. Made a huge difference. Car straightened out and picked up in the 60ft. Went from 1.40 to 1.37 no other changes.

[68WarDog]

Originally Posted by mchell

Just installed my Hrpartsnstuff anti roll bar.....birthday present to myself

All I can say is WOW!

The quality of this kit is incredible. Transformed my old slug 100%

Leaves absolutely straight. Car handles better than I ever expected....awesome on the street!

Can’t wait to hit the track....I feel some 60’ improvement forthcoming

Is the front attached to the control arms? Reason for asking in I just received the UMI 4045 kit, and it doesn't specify front mounting points. I run a Ford 9" and the standard GM sway bar contacts the center section.

[mchell]

Originally Posted by 68WarDog

Is the front attached to the control arms? Reason for asking in I just received the UMI 4045 kit, and it doesn't specify front mounting points. I run a Ford 9" and the standard GM sway bar contacts the center section.

No.....with this style of bar, the front attaches directly to the frame crossmember via Heim joints. The main body of the bar attaches to the rear end axle tubes. There is no connection to the rear lower control arms like a standard sway bar.

Very clean and efficient design. Looks great as well with zero obstruction or fitment issues.

[68WarDog]

After going back and reading the information, mine actually mounts to the crossmember too

[AG]

My brother put one on his 1970 last summer and it works excellent. Very good product.

[XLR8STEVE]

Nice! I just did the entire rear with the BMR version, adj control arms, no hops, qa1 dbl adj shocks and track locator on my 70.
cant wait to test it out. On the street, drives great.
Bought the Dick Miller weld in Anti Roll bar, but there is no way it fits with regular springs and 3" over axle pipes.

[68WarDog]

Originally Posted by XLR8STEVE

Nice! I just did the entire rear with the BMR version, adj control arms, no hops, qa1 dbl adj shocks and track locator on my 70.
cant wait to test it out. On the street, drives great.
Bought the Dick Miller weld in Anti Roll bar, but there is no way it fits with regular springs and 3" over axle pipes.

The 4045 kit has a heavy brace that bolts to the axle tube, but I will have it welded in. With 3" tailpipe coilovers wasn't doable. Just went with tubular front and rear, what adjustable coilovers are On the front of your car? Your car leaves nicely👍

[XLR8STEVE]

fronts are just Calvert drag shocks. 90/10 and stock springs. I didnt weld the Anti roll bar mounts to the axle tubes yet. i marked them to see if they move. If they move, I will weld them.

that pic is pre install of all this stuff. only had boxed stock control arms and front drag shocks. i had wheel hop after the initial launch. stick car.

[Old Goat Racer]

My low 10 sec 70 GTO would wag it's tail ALL the way down the 1/4 mi giving me the white knuckle ride.
Put the HR bar and all the stuff on, now the car is straight arrow driving with 2 fingers.
It works !

[Mike Davis]

Originally Posted by XLR8STEVE

fronts are just Calvert drag shocks. 90/10 and stock springs. I didnt weld the Anti roll bar mounts to the axle tubes yet. i marked them to see if they move. If they move, I will weld them.

that pic is pre install of all this stuff. only had boxed stock control arms and front drag shocks. i had wheel hop after the initial launch. stick car.

If the brackets are tight you should have no problems. My BMR bar has been on about 5 years now and they have not moved. Been anywhere from 1.34 to 1.37 60ft in a 3750lb car. One of the best suspension parts I bought.

[pokey1]

Good to hear, just put the HR parts n stuff bar on mine as well. Can't wait for hammer time.. Had to remove the jack plate on my 9". Paul said you definitely want clearance so no binding.

[PontiacJim1959]

Originally Posted by 68WarDog

Is the front attached to the control arms? Reason for asking in I just received the UMI 4045 kit, and it doesn't specify front mounting points. I run a Ford 9" and the standard GM sway bar contacts the center section.

The stock rear sway bar won't work with the 9" - as I too found out.

I fabricated my own set-up, more like seen on some trucks. I used an aftermarket factory Pontiac rear sway bar because I had already purchased it not knowing I could not use it with the Ford 9". I made all my own brackets and mounted it backwards to the rear frame rail. This is on my '68 Lemans. Don't know how well it will work as the car is still in the build stage, but I think I am good.

[blueghoast]

Originally Posted by XLR8STEVE

fronts are just Calvert drag shocks. 90/10 and stock springs. I didnt weld the Anti roll bar mounts to the axle tubes yet. i marked them to see if they move. If they move, I will weld them.

that pic is pre install of all this stuff. only had boxed stock control arms and front drag shocks. i had wheel hop after the initial launch. stick car.

What clutch set-up you use?

GT.

[mchell]

Here’s a pic of end link and bracket geometry......3” tail pipes

Still smiling every time I drive it....

[TCSGTO]

Originally Posted by mchell

Here’s a pic of end link and bracket geometry......3” tail pipes

About how long are the end links?

[mchell]

Originally Posted by TCSGTO

About how long are the end links?

Center to center is close to 4” (That’s threaded all the way in)....I would guess they can be backed out another 2-3”

[68WarDog]

Originally Posted by mchell

Center to center is close to 4” (That’s threaded all the way in)....I would guess they can be backed out another 2-3”

How did you set neutral preload?

[Scott65]

Leave the end of the passenger side adjusting bar unhooked; then with the driver in the car install it where the bolt for the adjuster will slide in by hand and tighten the jam nuts.