[SRR]

I've got a 68' 12 bolt 60" 3.31 POSI. I was thinking to put C-clip eliminators and new axles...I see there are two versions of this street strip/strip. I'm leaning towards the street strip version? Pros/cons? I wanted the larger 1/2" wheel studs also but will my center lines still fit?
I also after doing the rear drum brakes on this I noticed there are no slots in the drums or the backing plates to adjust the brake shoe so I was thinking to replace the drums and they do not have the slots ether. Do I have the wrong backing plates? I did adjust the new shoes as close as possible by taking the drum on and off several times.

[steve25]

By drilling two holes and using a cut off disc you put a adjustment port in the backing plate where you need it.
I did this on a Olds rear once .

[Formulajones]

Just make sure you get the good c-clip eliminator axles from Strange that have the proper bearing seals for street use.

The C-clip eliminator axles from Moser (unless they changed and fixed it) they were the only style available at the time, just used a simple o-ring around the circumference of the bearing and that doesn't keep the oil from leaking for long. Eventually it comes through the bearing itself and all over the brakes. Moser's excuse at the time was that they are for strip only and not meant to make turns ( I don't know of a drag strip where you don't have to make turns) Lame excuse and not advertised as such at that time. Poor design.

Like I said maybe they've changed and reconfigured the design since then but I never bought from them again. Better safe than sorry, Strange makes the proper street version of the c-clip eliminator axle and they work perfectly. I've used them for probably 25+ years now without any issues with thousands of street miles.

[Schurkey]

Does the backing plate or the drum have punch-out/knock-out openings?

[SRR]

Nope, this is what I'm working with. I tried to find a couple drums in my stash of parts but none the right size. Not a game changer. I was also thinking about one of those covers that have the bolts that put tension on the bearing caps.

[SRR]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Just make sure you get the good c-clip eliminator axles from Strange that have the proper bearing seals for street use.

The C-clip eliminator axles from Moser (unless they changed and fixed it) they were the only style available at the time, just used a simple o-ring around the circumference of the bearing and that doesn't keep the oil from leaking for long. Eventually it comes through the bearing itself and all over the brakes. Moser's excuse at the time was that they are for strip only and not meant to make turns ( I don't know of a drag strip where you don't have to make turns) Lame excuse and not advertised as such at that time. Poor design.

Like I said maybe they've changed and reconfigured the design since then but I never bought from them again. Better safe than sorry, Strange makes the proper street version of the c-clip eliminator axle and they work perfectly. I've used them for probably 25+ years now without any issues with thousands of street miles.

https://www.strangeengineering.net/p...stud-kit.html/

I'm guessing I have to drill out the wheel stud holes (7/16" > 1/2") on the drums but everything else should be plug and play after I cut the bearing housings off the diff. I'm also thinking the 2" wheel studs should be ok? Anybody know how much thicker the axle flange is from the stock 12 bolt axle flange?

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

Does the backing plate or the drum have punch-out/knock-out openings?

Common to have 12 bolt without an adjustment slot.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by SRR

https://www.strangeengineering.net/p...stud-kit.html/

I'm guessing I have to drill out the wheel stud holes (7/16" > 1/2") on the drums but everything else should be plug and play after I cut the bearing housings off the diff. I'm also thinking the 2" wheel studs should be ok? Anybody know how much thicker the axle flange is from the stock 12 bolt axle flange?

It's been my experience that usually the holes in the drums have a little play on the 7/16 stud and will slide over the 1/2" stud, it's only a 1/16 difference, but if not a quick pass with a 1/2 drill bit takes care of it.

Yes after you cut the housing flange off it's a bolt on deal. Ive used the strange setup and with those the axle flange is the same outside dimensions (width)

[gtokid1968]

My Moser axels came with 1/2 ''studs and didnt have to drill the drums or the old School Centerline wheels.
I also changed the front stock disk set up to 1/.2 stud no problem.

[Formulajones]

Yeah sometimes ya do sometimes ya don't. Just depends but in most cases I didn't have to.

Wheels were also hit and miss. Some we had to drill and others not.
Wheel vintiques on Dad's car had to be drilled but the early 70's vintage centerlines on the Vega didn't need drilled but I cheated on that. They use shanked lug nuts so all I had to do when 1/2" studs were installed is buy new shanked lug nuts for 1/2-20 that have the same outside diameter on the shank to fit the wheel. Easy peasy

[SRR]

Ok, one more dumb question! Do I want the 2" or 3" wheel studs? The stock ones aren't even 2" long.

[VCho455]

NHRA says the diameter of the stud must stick out past the lug nut seat on the wheel. So in your case you need 1/2" of stud protruding past the top of the lug nut's seating surface or the top washer in installed.

Or as NHRA states" The stud must protrude into the hex portion of the nut at least the diameter of the stud.*"

https://www.markwilliams.com/optimum...-security.html

[b-man]

The stud length is dependent on the wheel and lug nut combination.

Wheels with thicker centers and long lug nuts need the 3” studs.

I had 3” studs all around on my bracket race 1964 GTO, I was running Centerline Auto Drag wheels. The wheel centers especially the front 3-1/2” wheels were thick and the open end lug nuts were long.

Having open end lug nuts is a must when running the 3” lug studs. When you’re going through tech inspection at the track having open end lug nuts makes things fast and easy for the inspector.

[SRR]

I clear coated it, nice piece made in USA.

[SRR]

Well, pulled the trigger a couple of days ago and ordered the whole axle kit from Strange and paid the extra for them to put the c-clip eliminators and wheel studs on the axles. Only after paying for them did I read:

"> New Order - Due to large order volumes we are experiencing extended processing times. Shipping Mon to Fri only."

I had it shipped to my work so danger of porch pirates! I haven't even got a tracking number yet. I can't wait to finally do this upgrade.

[SRR]

OK, went to install the axles today and I'm pretty sure they sent me the wrong axles. There is only 1" of spline engagement. I gave them all the info even took pictures of the axle code and the date code. Maybe this is my fault? I just bummed now the car is stuck on my lift.

[SRR]

Just some pics from the conversion. I have to say cutting and grinding on that 12 bolt gave me a little anxiety lol No turning back now!

[Chris65LeMans]

I had thought C clip eliminators weren't for street cars. That's wrong?

[Formulajones]

We've been running c-clip eliminators on street cars for decades. The key is what I mentioned in an earlier post. You need the strange c-clip eliminator kit. They have a proper oil retention setup that keeps the oil in the rear. Others like the Moser deal I've tried will not keep oil in the housing and they leak all over the brakes, it's a poor design. That was 30 something years ago so not sure that's changed at all but I've stuck with strange ever since with 100 percent success.

[vicgto]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

. The key is what I mentioned in an earlier post. You need the strange c-clip eliminator kit. They have a proper oil retention setup that keeps the oil in the rear. .

I recently picked up a 12 bolt housing that came with Strange A1033 C clip eliminator kit, does this kit provide a good seal?