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#21
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Dad has run these on the back of his GTO since about 1970. Not sure they are made anymore but they are stainless and work nicely with the rest of the stainless on the car. They've been on there so long and I'm so used to them that when they were removed for the restoration it looked like it was missing something, lol.
You'll have to look closely, they are hardly noticeable. As small as they are, they do keep debris from hitting the lower quarter, and the factory stainless along the bottom of the quarter also helps. In the past I've also used temporary rubber flaps to get through situations you describe and I clipped them on the quarter lip with the ACCO metal binder clips.. Then simply remove them when not needed. |
#22
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Some good ideas in this thread, thanks to everyone that posted. I took it for a ride last night, temp was in the mid-30's and clear. Ran great. There's nothing like an old carbureted hot rod on a cool night, I love the way the cool air makes then run so nice.
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#23
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Don't know about the mud flaps, will leave those to others.
As far as the tires are concerned: In a different lifetime (well about 55 years ago) snow tires were expensive, and SOFT. A set would barely last through one winter. Dad found me a spare set of rims, and mounted some used regular tires, but still with good tread, and a set of chains. Carried these in the trunk, and the weight helped the front/rear distribution for steering control; and if the weather got bad, simply changed out the wheel/tire combination. Once the weather improved, changed them back. Don't know how much wheel well clearance you might have; metal chains might not work. There used to be at least one company that made a set of fabric "chains" that require less clearance. Jon.
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"Good carburetion is fuelish hot air". "The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one given to you by your neighbor". If you truly believe that "one size fits all" try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes! Owner of The Carburetor Shop, LLC (of Missouri). Current caretaker of the remains of Stromberg Caburetor, and custodian of the existing Carter and Kingston carburetor drawings. |
#24
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I put mine in the snow once.
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3 Generations of "Beach Boys Racing" ! Everybody knows somthin. Nobody knows everything ! 1st time on a dragstrip, 1964. Flagstart ! "Thanks for the entertainment." "Real Indians Don't Wear Bowties" |
#25
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Quote:
Don’t even think of putting all seasons on at about 20*F they turn rock hard. With that much torque and that nice a car traction is life. It’s usually the ice that will get you in trouble. Toyo observe were the best winter tires we’ve used. They have micro bits in them. No need for studs. Very smooth on dry pavement as well. |
#26
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In the late 1960's early 1970's I drove my 1965 GTO year round. It was actually a good winter car with it's limited slip, 4 speed and low (3.90) rear gears. It was also jacked up several inches. I commuted 40 miles each way to work, from NH to Mass 5 days a week. I never got stuck in the worse snow storms or even on icy roads. Car had 28 inch tall by 5.5 inch wide snow tires. Enjoy driving your car. It won't rust out while you own it.
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#27
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You got a 65 GTO and your driving it on the snow and salt. I would call that blasphemy.
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Tim Corcoran |
The Following User Says Thank You to Tim Corcoran For This Useful Post: | ||
#28
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At the time the car was worth a couple hundred dollars. Everyone drove their cars year round.
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#29
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Quote:
so basically i am thinking just to be extra safe i might run snow tires on cold days when the roads are clear, just in case there is some ice i can’t see. i think the county uses magnesium chloride but i can’t see how that would be an issue on a dry day? |
#30
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magnesium chloride is extremely corrosive to vehicles. I would not do it
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'78 Macho T/A DKM#95, 460cid, SRP pistons, KRE 310 D ports, 3" pypes, Hooker 1 3/4" headers, hydraulic roller, 10" Continental, 3.42 gears 11.5 @117.5mph 3900lbs ([_|_] ##\|/##[_|_]) |
#31
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"i think the county uses magnesium chloride but i can’t see how that would be an issue on a dry day?"
If if gets caked on the roads like it does around here, the underside of car, wheel wells, etc will get coated in the dust. Run through a puddle or some rain, and instant salt bath in all the nooks and crannies where the corrosion begins. Of course it will not rust overnight, but if you want to keep it nice for the next owner or two... I am probably being a little anal, but back in the day these cars would rust out in just a few years! My 71 demon was already a rust bucket daily driver when I purchased in 82! I know a lot of people that will not take their classics out of winter storage until we have had a good rain or two to wash the road salt into the rivers and lakes, which of course is a another discussion.... With all that said, your area uses far less salt and chemical compared to here in the rust belt, so likely much less of a concern in your scenario. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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68 Firebird-- Street/Strip - 400/461 Eagle Forged Bottom End & Ross Flat top pistons. KRE 325 CFM D port, Ultradyne 263/271 @.050, .4267 lift. Crower Solid roller lifters and 1.65 stainless rockers. Quickfuel 1000 on Torker2 intake and 2" open spacer. Hedman 1.75" headers. TH400 w/brake. Ford 9" w/3.80 gears & 28x9 Hoosier pro bracket drag radial. Best ET: 1.35 60ft, 6.29 @ 107.20 mph, 9.99 @132.33 mph. 3,300 race weight |
#32
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Alright, thanks everyone. I have seen the light. I have a 72 K10 truck that isn't insured, I use it for plowing the driveway. It's a lot rougher than the GTO. I will put it on the road and drive it every now and again to get my classic car jollies in the winter, and keep the GTO in the shop.
Still gonna need some mudflaps though |
#33
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Street driven 72s have been disinagrated here by the salt. Rust repair is the worst. Drive the disposable in the winter. Here anyway
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'78 Macho T/A DKM#95, 460cid, SRP pistons, KRE 310 D ports, 3" pypes, Hooker 1 3/4" headers, hydraulic roller, 10" Continental, 3.42 gears 11.5 @117.5mph 3900lbs ([_|_] ##\|/##[_|_]) |
#34
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I've had my present GTO for 30 years now. I've always driven it on nice winter days when the roads are dry. It has no more rust or corrosion than it had when I bought it in 1989. If you store your car in an unheated garage salt will not effect it. Salt by itself will not hurt your car. Just look at trucks used in salt mines.
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#35
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This thread seems to have really caused some consternation, so I'm bumping it. I'm not going to drive my car in winter. The rust issue just means it's not worth it.
I gotta say, it sucks. I grew up driving my car every day and I want to put as many miles on it before I die as possible. I don't care if I get dings or scratches in the paint or the engine compartment gets ugly, I think these cars were made to be driven. But the reality is that rust is just such a killer and I have already spent an ungodly amount of money repairing rust damage from east coast winters once and I don't want to have to do that again. When I posted the thread I was dead serious, I was hoping that the magnesium chloride wasn't so bad as long as you drove in dry weather. But after hearing from everyone, I am convinced that would be foolish. I get that it maybe sound silly to some of you, but I have really good memories of going out to my hot rod every single day, even in the snow, and driving to work. I have accepted, however, that those days are over at least until someone develops a non-corrosive deicing solution for the roads. |
#36
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They already have...beet juice
I too am obsessed with rust - i can hear my daily rusting in the garage rn. Sometimes I wish I had a saturn or a corvette lol.
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Esquire '74 T/A 455 Y-code SD clone previously on Dawson's Creek: '74 T/A 400 '81 AMC SX/4 '69 FB 350 |
#37
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Rich Guido...Alberta to Florida...run mid 8's drive back...he would know about snow tires or traction on a GTO
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466 Mike Voycey shortblock, 310cfm SD KRE heads, SD "OF 2.0 cam", torker 2 373 gears 3200 Continental Convertor best et 10.679/127.5/1.533 60ft 308 gears best et 10.76/125.64/1.5471 |
#38
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To me, that's the perfect car ... something that looks good, is fast, but you'll drive it anywhere and do so frequently.
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#39
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You'll have to check to see if they have your size, but Hakkapelitta tires from Nokian are probably the best snow tires available. Don't forget to put snow tires on all four wheels, not just the rear like we used to do. https://www.nokiantires.com
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The Following User Says Thank You to Stuart For This Useful Post: | ||
#40
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Really the fast stick car and Pontiac powered real street car out there..Rich is kickass
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466 Mike Voycey shortblock, 310cfm SD KRE heads, SD "OF 2.0 cam", torker 2 373 gears 3200 Continental Convertor best et 10.679/127.5/1.533 60ft 308 gears best et 10.76/125.64/1.5471 |
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