[Ogre]

Ok, all of you experts (I am not one), what seat tracks have I got?

Background: I recently bought two buckets for my next project (’72 Lemans HT). After receiving the seats, I started tearing them apart to check their condition. (Don’t we always tear apart new purchase? Lol)

Anyway, my first question was the wire between the rails. My original buckets in my ’72 vert only have the latching mechanism in the rail w/release handle. Both of these seats are connected by the wire (Pic 1), so they both have latches. No problem, it’ll work … just wondering what buckets had this interconnection.

Next … major problem. Pic 2 shows that the floor attachments are the same on both seats, but the attachments to the seat are different (Pic 3, 4 & 5). BTW, seats are identical, so I’m guessing that the rails on the driver seat were replaced. Maybe a big body Pontiac, or some other “junk yard” find. The rail will fit the seat by using the additional hole without the welded nut, by using the bolt and a nut to secure them to the seat. (sorry forgot a pic)

So just wondering what rails on the driver seat might be. I can use them or get the correct length (I think).

I welcome your comments. Thanks,
Ogre

[gto4evr]

Does the connecting wire bend under the spring look modified on one end? Bench seats use the connecting cable with a long wire attached between both. maybe someone used a set and cut the spring short.

I don't have anything around to look at but I remember that setup when I pulled the bench out of my 71 when I switched it to buckets.


there's also no release button lever bracket on that setup so not sure how you're supposed to reach the latch to adjust it. I remember the lever coming out a different angle on the bench seat on the left side, but it was still there so now I'm not sure. are all of your pics of the same pair of brackets from one seat or just the two right sides on pics 3-5?

[Ogre]

Sorry gto4evr, I didn't explain the pics that well.

First, the two are from two different buckets. The shorter one is just fine (passenger's), but the longer one (driver's) has me stumped. So the driver's is from the right side (away from the release lever) of the driver's seat, and the passenger's is from the left side (away from the release lever). The small wire in the 1st pic shows how when the lever is actuated, it also actuates the other side. If the wire breaks for some reason, the seat is stuck because the opposite side is stuck.

As I said, it can be made to work ... the PO obviously figured out that you just add another nut and use the more distant hole without a welded nut. There is no way to mix a long and short bracket. The stops inside the brackets are stop at different points, so both long brackets must go together, and the short ones must go together.

I hope that clears it up a little.

I am somewhat concerned about keeping the left and right connection. As stated, if the small wire breaks ... the seat has to be removed to try to fix it.

Ogre
BTW for all: I know, I know, just by buy new (reproduced) seat brackets from Ames. I have already spent more money than I need to.

[gto4evr]

Originally Posted by Ogre

Sorry gto4evr, I didn't explain the pics that well.

First, the two are from two different buckets. The shorter one is just fine (passenger's), but the longer one (driver's) has me stumped. So the driver's is from the right side (away from the release lever) of the driver's seat, and the passenger's is from the left side (away from the release lever). The small wire in the 1st pic shows how when the lever is actuated, it also actuates the other side. If the wire breaks for some reason, the seat is stuck because the opposite side is stuck.

As I said, it can be made to work ... the PO obviously figured out that you just add another nut and use the more distant hole without a welded nut. There is no way to mix a long and short bracket. The stops inside the brackets are stop at different points, so both long brackets must go together, and the short ones must go together.

I hope that clears it up a little.

I am somewhat concerned about keeping the left and right connection. As stated, if the small wire breaks ... the seat has to be removed to try to fix it.

Ogre
BTW for all: I know, I know, just by buy new (reproduced) seat brackets from Ames. I have already spent more money than I need to.

Ogre,

okay, so these will work except for your wire connection between them issue. -- that's a simple fix. eliminate the stop bracket on the inside track. OEM bucket seats only use the outer track for the seat position locks. inside one just slides and has the return spring so if you were to just mount that track by itself, it would slide all the way forward under the spring tension.

so either tie the stop bracket back or cut it off so it can't ever slip back to a locked spot on that track and you're good to go. I'm assuming this is a "works then it's fine" situation and not trying to be 100% numbers correct -- if that's the case, they do make the correct tracks reproduction but I'm guessing that's not needed in your case.

[Ogre]

Thanks, got4evr. I appreciate your input, and I will add your recommendations to my thinking list of what to do.

Right now, I discovered that the driver's bucket springs are rusted so bad that they could break in some areas. So, it looks like new springs for the seat but not the back. Passenger's seat look's much better. Maybe not so much coke, beer, etc. spilled on the seat by the previous passenger. LOL

I wish I could ID what the seat came from. While it has all of the identification of a 70's GTO/Lemans, the two-side ratcheting mounting frames are still a conundrum. A good cleaning after I finish stripping and reupholstering should giver me good buckets. If I could determine what car they came from, I might see if there is a need for the mounts, and then just buy the repops from Ames.

Thanks again,
Ogre

[rambow]

72 Monte Carlo / Grand Prix seats

1972 A-body buckets had latches on both tracks with the connecting wire between them. This is stock and correct for 1972.
Another indicator for it being 1927 is the seatbelt warning pressure switch shown on the bottom of the seat springs in that one photo.
The seatbelt warning switch was also introduced in 1972, so 100% definitely a 1972 seat.

For some reason the Montes & Grand Prix's had the one longer track- which didn't actually change the floor mounting position, or the Forward/Backward motion of the track, but you did have to use the extra hole in front of the welded on bolt hole and fish a nut in there to secure, but its very easy to do. I have taken apart virgin Monte seats with that track and the nut is never welded on them. Earlier seat frames don't have that "extra" hole in the front, so its definitely something specific to those models.

So there is no reason not to use those tracks, they will work for any 66-72 A-body. I would not modify the inboard track at all, just use it as its supposed to be with the connecting wire to actuate the latch.

Edit... Just re-read your post... I see now that there is no actuating arm on the outboard track... Looks like it was cut off or something. Weird.

[Ogre]

Thanks for the comments, rambow.

I thought of some of the changes that happened (due to safety edicts from DOT) during the 1972 production cycle. My original '72 Lemans w/T41 nose was ordered by me, and it came with 140 mph speedo, full gauges, no seat belt warning, and other things that later productions had. These seats were definitely after the seat belt warning was required ... the wire under the passenger is a giveaway.

But further than that, the totally different seat tracks with locking mechanisms on both tracks was confusing. I've done several Pontiac seats and never seen that. So, I was thinking ... maybe Cutlass, Chevelle, or large Pontiac? But most videos I've watched on youTube of overhauls and reupholster were not from Pontiacs and they didn't have the two locking rails. So, I am still confused.

The seats will work, after I do some broken spring repair, and cleanup of the surface rust, but I am still little concerned about the wire breakage and am not sure disabling the connection might cause other problems.

Anyway, I appreciate the comments, and if anybody has more ideas on what these seats came from, I would like the input.

Ogre
BTW, speaking of broken spring repair, does anybody have a source for the "triple" crimp connectors, and is there a special tool, rather than my channel locks? LOL

[rambow]

Originally Posted by Ogre

BTW, speaking of broken spring repair, does anybody have a source for the "triple" crimp connectors, and is there a special tool, rather than my channel locks? LOL

Are you talking about the 3 prong clips/crimps?

These are the ones I use for all my spring repairs... They are called BW clips or Borderwire clips. Made by CS Osborne.

They don't need a special tool, just a pair of pliers. I slightly close the inside lip, then slip it over the springs and then close it up with the pliers.

You can find them on ebay and amazon.

I've never found a source for the original style. There are some similar looking ones out there, but they are larger and don't close up tight... So i've always stuck with these ones.

[Ogre]

Thanks again, rambow. Those should do just fine.

I found some of the "three prong spring clips", aka "Baker" clips several places, but they are 1-1/2 in long, and I don't think they will fit our car seat springs with the small radius turns on the springs. I was also concerned with the home upholstery clips having the same strength as our car clips.

I know that our car parts places sell them with the seat side springs repair kits, but they do not list them separately.

Since you've had good luck with the Borderwire clip strength, I'll give them a try.

Ogre