#1  
Old 04-24-2023, 10:23 PM
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RocktimusPryme RocktimusPryme is offline
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Default Tell me what I’m looking at brake wise.

I didn’t think we had enough brake booster threads in this section so I’m starting another one

Got to get my hands into my new 1962 Safari today. Had some wins. Found out someone swapped in a safe-t-track. PHS said it came 3.08 open. Got it to run off it’s own tank. Got some brake fluid to the rear brakes. Now I have to bleed them and look for leaks. See if the MC is good.

Here is what I think I know through research. I have a two bolt MC so it’s a bendix. Someone bypassed the canister. I don’t know why they capped its line as if an empty can would leak.

The booster looks like it’s later model to me. Has a plug of some sort on the driver side not in use. I’m curious what you guys think? Late 60s/70s booster?


With the car running I can hear a hiss of vacuum leak from inside the car. When you press the brakes, it goes away. Which is odd I feel like I would expect to hear the leak. When it was depressed if the diaphragm was leaking. I sprayed carb cleaner all around the booster and didn’t get much reaction if any. So if it has a leak it must be internal. Pedal is soft but the brakes aren’t bled so it would be. What do you guys think? Hiss with no pressure and no hiss when you hit the pedal.

Ultimately I want to go with the Master Power setup and get rid of the suicide single cylinder. But I need tires and a windshield. If I can live with the brakes with some sweat and pocket change involved vs $500 I would like to do that for a few months.
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  #2  
Old 04-25-2023, 03:21 AM
Goatracer1 Goatracer1 is offline
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1962 Booster has a "T" for an inlet with 1 arm going to engine vacuum and other going to the reservoir can. Yours looks late model with some kind of sensor. Master cylinder looks like a aftermarket replacement. Previous owner may have plugged can inlet to keep dirt and moisture out incase they wanted to use it at a later date. (I did.) If the booster is working and it is only temporary I wouldn't worry about the hiss. I used a Master Power Brakes booster with a Rock Auto dual master cylinder.

  #3  
Old 04-25-2023, 08:31 AM
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RocktimusPryme RocktimusPryme is offline
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So can I use pretty much any 11" 2 bolt MC booster if I wanted to swap it out? I dont overly care about correct as long as it works safely and doesnt require any hacking to install.

Especially if it turns out the master cylinder leaks I would consider a booster swap to a cheap and readily available one. If I bleed the brakes and everything firms up I am inclined to just live with the hiss for a bit like you said.

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  #4  
Old 04-25-2023, 11:03 AM
mgarblik mgarblik is offline
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Well I can partially tell you what your looking at! Your not looking at a 62 factory booster, Moraine or Bendix. The MC also is off something slightly newer, 1963-1966. 1967 would be the first year for a dual MC, and that is a single. The hissing noise is about a 90% likely defective air control valve in the booster and not the diaphragm itself. It is mostly a plastic part and after 60+ years is likely cracked somewhere internally. Basically, foot off the pedal, somehow vacuum is making it's way into the valve and exhausting inside the car. If the diaphragm was cut or punctured, the pedal would be hard and you would hear vacuum in the car all the time foot on or off the pedal and it would idle rough. If you still have power assist, you can probably drive it a little with this leak, especially if it seals when the brakes are applied. The 61-62 power brake booster is unique and pretty weird. The MC piston is actually a part of the booster and only the seals are serviced. It's kind of semi-integral. Really doesn't interchange with anything modern without replacing MC and Booster. For a lowest cost repair, I would try to get the system bled and see how it feels as is. Overall the booster/MC looks like 63-66.

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Old 04-25-2023, 11:31 AM
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I just shipped mgarblik a 61 reservoir tank and I don't think it looks like the one you have.
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  #6  
Old 04-25-2023, 11:50 AM
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RocktimusPryme RocktimusPryme is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgarblik View Post
Well I can partially tell you what your looking at! Your not looking at a 62 factory booster, Moraine or Bendix. The MC also is off something slightly newer, 1963-1966. 1967 would be the first year for a dual MC, and that is a single. The hissing noise is about a 90% likely defective air control valve in the booster and not the diaphragm itself. It is mostly a plastic part and after 60+ years is likely cracked somewhere internally. Basically, foot off the pedal, somehow vacuum is making it's way into the valve and exhausting inside the car. If the diaphragm was cut or punctured, the pedal would be hard and you would hear vacuum in the car all the time foot on or off the pedal and it would idle rough. If you still have power assist, you can probably drive it a little with this leak, especially if it seals when the brakes are applied. The 61-62 power brake booster is unique and pretty weird. The MC piston is actually a part of the booster and only the seals are serviced. It's kind of semi-integral. Really doesn't interchange with anything modern without replacing MC and Booster. For a lowest cost repair, I would try to get the system bled and see how it feels as is. Overall the booster/MC looks like 63-66.
That is all important because if I found my MC is bad and I bought a new one for a 62 only to find it didn't fit that booster I would have been annoyed. This is why Im asking these questions. I wouldn't have guessed a 63-66 would have had that plug port in it.

Is that internal air control valve repairable? I might opt for that if there was a cheap kit to fix it and just keep matching parts that work together, together.

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Last edited by RocktimusPryme; 04-25-2023 at 11:57 AM.
  #7  
Old 04-25-2023, 12:25 PM
mgarblik mgarblik is offline
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Replaceable, yes, but requires a full booster overhaul. You have to remove the booster and split it in half. It pulls out from the inside. Generally, a complete replacement valve is part of the rebuild kit. It takes a couple special tools to open the boosters. This stuff used to be done at the dealer level, which is why I used to teach this stuff. That all ended at some point in the late 80's, early 90's. Booster Dewey and a few other specialty shops do rebuild them. Sounds like your going to go modern anyway, so I would just not worry about the vacuum leak yet. See if the brakes function manually first, IMO.

  #8  
Old 04-25-2023, 01:06 PM
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RocktimusPryme RocktimusPryme is offline
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Yeah, Im on the same page. There are a bunch of what ifs.

If it functions Ill probably drive it like that for a bit. If the MC is bad I was going to buy a replacement, but now that I don't know what might interchange I may just bit the bullet and buy a Master Power kit.

Or if someone has a success story with a cheaper setup I might do that. Im sure its mostly the same parts. I just want to be able to bolt it up with the least amount of hastle.

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  #9  
Old 04-25-2023, 08:45 PM
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Made some time to bleed the brakes today. Got fluid at all the wheels. It firmed up nice. Maybe actually locked up too quick. Always a learning curve to get used to a new pedal. We will see if it leaks anywhere.

Radiator puked its guts up after idling for 5 minutes. That thing is a tragedy. Ugly, “custom” fit in terribly, beat to hell.

Found something new. What in the name is bubba is this? Tow bar? Or is this a redneck sway bar? I had a 64 Galaxie that had offset pins in the A arms. People did stuff like this to keep them from wandering at highway speeds.

There is also some sort of strange puck on the oil pan. I think its a speaker magnet someone is using to trap iron particles?
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Last edited by RocktimusPryme; 04-25-2023 at 09:32 PM.
  #10  
Old 04-25-2023, 10:56 PM
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I've never seen anything like that before, I agree it may be some home brew attempt at an anti sway bar. The other picture does look like a speaker magnet.

  #11  
Old 04-26-2023, 10:19 PM
Goatracer1 Goatracer1 is offline
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Wouldn't work as a sway bar. Maybe something to tow car by. The magnet is actually a good idea. It will hold steel/iron pieces in bottom of pan so they don't possibly go where they shouldn't. You find them in automatic transmission pans.

  #12  
Old 04-26-2023, 10:32 PM
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So Ford on a few cars had this deal where they put offset pins in the a Arms that promoted a comfy ride at highway speeds. Problem is highway speeds in 64 were lower than they are now. So at 70, that comfy ride starts to get a bit sketchy. The 427 police cars, and 406 cars got straight pins as the performance models.

They make the straight pins but they are absurd. It’s like $300 for a bolt essentially. Alternatively there is a dude who makes a nice kit that ties the arms together to help the issue with reported good results. So I was thinking, similar year maybe similar possibility? But still I agree it’s most likely a tow point.

-180 Tow Point
+220 suspension “upgrade”

The magnet is a good idea I guess, but I just don’t see why you wouldn’t get a magnetic drain plug and eliminate the possibility of ejecting something behind you into someones windshield.

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  #13  
Old 04-26-2023, 10:43 PM
Goatracer1 Goatracer1 is offline
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1962 Boosters are smaller in diameter than the later ones usually. You may have to dent the inner fender panel slightly to get one to fit. Your booster is not a 1963-1966. Save you money and replace both the booster and master cylinder at one time. I used a Master Power Brakes booster # BS1009DCH 9" dual booster. Mine was chromed because the black one was out of stock. The price for the black one is around $250. My master cylinder was for front disc brakes so the number won't help you. If you call the company they can help pick the correct one.

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