[arbys]

I'm installing new body mounts in my 66 ans ran into a couple of problems. The mounting position just behind the passenger rear wheel was rotted out and I'm in the process of installing the new body brace. However I get to the rear most body bolt and it just spins. It seems that there is a nut between two body panels and there is no easy access to that nut. Any ideas? I've also posted this in the 66-67 GTO/Lemans forum.

[gtospieg]

You have to cut a whole to access the cage nut. New ones are available. Fix it and weld it back together.

[TAKerry]

I only know f body's not sure if the same applies. But if it does have a cage nut it is most likely snapped and you will have to access from the top. Use about a 2.5/3" hole saw. Do not cut all the way through. Once you start getting some meat concentrate the saw on one side. Once that breaks through stop. Leave just a little bit of uncut metal in place. That way it will act like a hinge and you can fold it back out of the way, get to the nut easily (may have to soak in PB for a bit). Once finished you can fold the tab back down and you have a perfect patch. Tac weld back in place and youre good to go.

Hardest part of this is locating the exact spot of the nut, but with some careful measuring and some cross reference its not too bad.

[arbys]

Originally Posted by TAKerry

I only know f body's not sure if the same applies. But if it does have a cage nut it is most likely snapped and you will have to access from the top. Use about a 2.5/3" hole saw. Do not cut all the way through. Once you start getting some meat concentrate the saw on one side. Once that breaks through stop. Leave just a little bit of uncut metal in place. That way it will act like a hinge and you can fold it back out of the way, get to the nut easily (may have to soak in PB for a bit). Once finished you can fold the tab back down and you have a perfect patch. Tac weld back in place and youre good to go.

Hardest part of this is locating the exact spot of the nut, but with some careful measuring and some cross reference its not too bad.

Yes, I think that's the route that I'm taking. The metal hole saw should be here in a couple of days.

[Jonsie]

Originally Posted by arbys

Yes, I think that's the route that I'm taking. The metal hole saw should be here in a couple of days.

Yep, that's what we did on my '66, worked out great, installed the new hardware, cleaned/rustproofed both sides of the metal 'flap', then fiberglassed everything over.

[arbys]

Well the hole saw was the way to go. I used a 3" holesaw and will use the cutout as the patch when I'm done.

[Indy1k]

Great information on cutting an access hole with the hole saw. My question is location !
I have a 65 GTO. frame should be same for 64-66. The bolts on mine that are the problem are No. 5 and No. 6. That is the bolt at the top of the spring perch and the bolt at the back of the wheelhouse. Has anyone got the measurements on where to drill for those two positions? I marked the centerline in the trunk and can measure outward from there, the problem is front to back as it is hard to transfer that linear measurement from the "O" line back to the mount position inside the car.
Thank you in advance.

Kevin

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by Indy1k

Great information on cutting an access hole with the hole saw. My question is location !
I have a 65 GTO. frame should be same for 64-66. The bolts on mine that are the problem are No. 5 and No. 6. That is the bolt at the top of the spring perch and the bolt at the back of the wheelhouse. Has anyone got the measurements on where to drill for those two positions? I marked the centerline in the trunk and can measure outward from there, the problem is front to back as it is hard to transfer that linear measurement from the "O" line back to the mount position inside the car.
Thank you in advance.

Kevin

That's exactly what I was going to ask. I'm sure I could find it but to get it dead center on the first shot the way Indy1k just did is impressive. I mean you hit it dead center.
In the past when doing that sort of thing, I would drill a small hole to see how close I am then determine where adjustments are needed for the large one.

[Indy1k]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

That's exactly what I was going to ask. I'm sure I could find it but to get it dead center on the first shot the way Indy1k just did is impressive. I mean you hit it dead center.
In the past when doing that sort of thing, I would drill a small hole to see how close I am then determine where adjustments are needed for the large one.

As you can see in the pictures, I was close on No. 6 Bolt hole. I basically marked a centerline in the trunk with chalk. I then measured out from the center line the distance as marked in the chassis manual to the bushing bolt No. 6. Then I drilled a small pilot hole up from underneath thru the trunk floor inline with the bolt front to back. Now i had the coordinatesfor the bolt(or so I thought). I then used a 3" hole saw to cut the hole, leaving a small amount on one side. This would allow me to "close the lid" and mig it back inplace without having a bend crease in the metal in the end.

No, I will do the same for No.5 if the PB Blaster doesnt do its job.

[Jonsie]

Indy1K...saw your pics, like the way you're going at it. On my '66, the bushings were so squashed that the pointed end of the body bolt actually made an indentation in the sheet metal in the trunk.......made it easy to locate the cage nut from above

[Indy1k]

Thanks, mine were not that squished. Gotten all changed out except for that one. All the rest came free with lots of PB Blaster. Was able to raise the body enough on each side with a 4x4 and floor jack. Didn't have to disconnect the rag joint, e-brake or speedo cable, and since front end is off, easy to get to the No.1 & 2 bushings

[tjs72lemans]

If you have room for a drill, drill a small hole from under car next to body mount
to find out where you're at above. Measure from there and weld small hole up.