[Nacs Fab]

At some point before removing all the sheet metal on the car, I prepped the weld surfaces of the trunk pan and hit them with weld thru primer.


Then I measured and marked for the DSE tubs. I didn’t start cutting till I had it ready to go back on the jig

[Gach]

Thats some amazing work.

[Nacs Fab]

It was time to install the trunk pan temporarily, so I cut for the mini tubs. I went ahead and fabricated the close outs for the trunk floor so they are ready when I start burning the whole floor assembly together on the jig.






I slid the pan onto the rails and marked them for trimming. Again I finished all close outs for them and set them aside for more test fitting of the whole floor/frame rail assembly. I want to have everything in place and test fitted to the car structure before I pull the upper body off and burn it all in.



Prepping for rail cutting.

[Nacs Fab]

I then moved on to the floor pan and prepped the weld surfaces with weld thru. Changed up to a copper product. The car will be welded together using plug welds on all structural and torque applied areas. I’ll even stitch weld the rails to the pans and rockers to the floor pan. The non structural body panels will be resistance welded with my Lenco Spot welder.



With the power I’m gonna lay down I decided to stitch the torque boxes. These will be partially cut out for some Innovative Racecraft front spring perches.




Here are their stock photos of the perches.

[Nacs Fab]

I installed a new captured nut set for the factory spring perches to check fitment of the frame rails to floor pan. They all bolt up perfectly so the pan is in its place. Still need to drill for plug welds and screw it together before fitting the rockers to the upper body. The outer rocker, kick panel braces and mid rocker braces will set the upper body in place based off some dimensions I’ll share when I get to “line up” phase.

Prepped the firewall to temporarily install. FYI all of the EDP will be removed once I get the shell together. I’ll epoxy primer spots that cannot be prepped after each part is welded in. I use weld thru primer In all places where 2 parts weld together. Eventually I’ll have the whole car coated with epoxy.






Looks like a car again!



This is basically where I am today.

I have basically my whole engine, down to buying the meziere water pump, oil pump, gaskets and a few minor things.

Just ordered my Glide trans with SFI bell and Pro Tree Brake and all the goodies to handle 1000hp. We will eventually go bigger on the trans when power develops. I have my converter bought, I also have all of my ignition, gauges, shifter, etc… basically I have everything but a shell of a car complete so for now I’ll concentrate on the body.

May go with an MR1 block so that will take a while to get funds ready.


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[Nacs Fab]

Originally Posted by Gach

Whats your bore size ? i know Allpontiac has.

Pistons are 4.155” if I remember correctly. Jeff ordered them from Ross. We compensated in the CH for the rod growth. We set it at .055” of stretch so as odd as it seems, the piston will be down in the hole a bit until i hit operating temps. That’s actually a big swing in static compression in my pea brain. Maybe someone can explain it. Jeff seemed not worried at all with what it will make.


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[Nacs Fab]

Originally Posted by Gach

Thats some amazing work.

Thanks for the kind words Man!

[Gach]

Ok, I’m running aluminum rods also. My piston are .010 in the hole and I run .050 head gasket. I was told .060 for rod stretch. Yeah I don’t think you’ll get any of the aftermarket block companies to do 4.155 bore. Seeing the start out as 4.350 bore. But Allpontiac might I know they have in the past. Don’t know if Kauffman will. You could always sell those pistons. I could always call Frank At Allpontiac and ask for you.

[Gach]

Static compression as it warms up and that rod stretches. That .060 piston to head closes up. So mine ends up 11.1 compression no issues what so ever with 93 octane. Think thats what your wondering about

[Nacs Fab]

Yes that is exactly what I was thinking. Thank you! I messaged KRE and he doesn’t have any MR1 available at this time but I have time on my side. He can accommodate 4.155” as they would supply it 4.150” and I’ll have it finish honed with a torque plate. I’ll probably go ahead and have them do the roller bearing treatment.


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[Gach]

Trust me thats a smart move. Like you say you have time on your side. I’ve just seen so many friends have issues with stock blocks then having to start all over.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by Nacs Fab

I’m starting the summary part of my build of a 68 Firebird originally a 350 2bbl auto car in Cameo Ivory with Red interior, Rally Wheels and a Console. Nothing special…. I’m building it to be a fun street car, able to race with the locals and do some no prep small tire racing. I’ll not have the initial HP to be competitive with 1200 and up HP cars, but I’m building the rolling car so that I could eventually drop a 2000hp bullet in and go racing!

Goal is 750-800 HP using some high end parts along with some old school stuff. Kauffman is providing many of my Engine Parts. Starting with a 70 400 Block with billet 4-Bolt caps and front cap. Filling the block to below freeze plugs. We will bore the block .030” over and align bore the mains, deck the block and do standard deburr, tapping front oil galleys, etc…. May do bronze bushings on the lifter bores if needed and will use a full SD Mega Brace epoxied in. Kauffman found me an Eagle 3” main 4.21” stroke (2.25” RJ) forged crank to mate to my 6.80” Aluminum new old stock Superod rods and Custom 4.155” bore Ross Pistons with Dish and set my static compression at 9.5:1. Balanced by KRE. Comp Hyd Roller .600”ish lift, 254 @ .050” Duration and 108 LS (may change). BOP belt. Luhn Pump, Stefs 1240 pan. Kauffman 80cc 330cfm High Ports with comp 930 springs. 1.6 ford rockers and KRE stud girdle (may change to t&d shaft), innovators west balancer. MSD 7AL-3 with Boost Timing Master to remove timing. For now I’m installing my 76mm TorqStorm Supercharger but by the time it’s built, I’ll either have twin 76s or a single 94mm so HP will be higher than my block can handle. Intake is port matched Northwind With C&S Aerosol 900 Blow through with super pro bowls for e85 and C&S Belt Driven Pump. Should see 12psi boost. Mad Dog 2” Primary race headers. Will have a 100-150 shot of Nitrous for a scramble. Timing will be pulled for it with 7AL-3.

All engine parts are in hand just waiting to deburr/fill block and then it all goes to machine shop soon.

Body is a total restoration and I’m doing all of the work. It needs Trunk and Floor Pans, both frame rails, inner/outer rockers, quarters, tail pan, mini tubs, trunk drops, firewall and cowl, plus cowl shoulders and more…. May have been easier to list what I didn’t replace. I’ve already built a jig and set the body on it, stripped the car and have blasted it and I’m ready to epoxy and start putting it back together.

Front stub is on my Fab Table with tube arms, ViKing coilovers, mustang rack, 2” dropped spindles and wilwood brakes. Cutting all crossmembers out, and tubing out the front of the subframe with 4130 tube for high clearance and to lighten the car. Up front will be a big radiator, intercooler and surge tank with clear view filter. Will feed Nitrous from surge tank with its own pump.

I’ll build a 7.50 cage and plan on still keeping most of my factory interior. It would be too pretty not to have that red interior! Wife wants leather so I may have someone do it but I want factory appearance.

Rear suspension is 9” Ford with 3.23 gear 35 spline, strange axles, braced and retubed with DOM. Calvert Mono leafs with 1” drop. Assassin Bars, Innovative Racecraft front adjustable perches, Funkhouser ARB, 10Deg sliders and shock mounts. Viking Shocks.

Powerglide with SFI bell and a Brake and 3800 Hughes Converter is already purchased.


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You do some nice work and have a lot of work in front of you.
When is your timeline to get her running ?
I like that rack you made to roll your chassis around.
Here are a few pics of that Teflon scrapper. Its a fair amount of work.
I have a block like your 70 but with splayed caps. Full brace, filled ect. But that is a awful lot of power you are going to have.
I am trying to make 700 but myself, would not try a whole lot more.
Right now I am having camshaft issues so its coming back out tomorrow.

[Nacs Fab]

Man thank you for the photos of the scraper. I’ll contact him soon and get mine on order. I know Erik with the Boosted Bandit runs over 1000hp on a stock block. I realize it’s a bad idea so I’m going to look into it. This will definitely put my engine program at a standstill until blocks are available again. KRE is looking for another foundry so this could take time.

Timeline is to have it rolling by end of Summer. I was also planning on firing the engine but I’ll be waiting for a block.

[OCMDGTO]

Really cool build! You are doing a great job of bringing it back from the dead

[will slow gto]

You have a gift, thanks for sharing.

[61-63]

Wow is all I can say. A project not for the faint of heart for sure.

[Nacs Fab]

I’ve been busy trying to sell our Camper and it finally sold this weekend.

When I left off, I had the door mocked up and firewall installed in its place. I noticed the new firewall didn’t sit on the jig quite right so I pulled it out and noticed my jig mounts had scratched through the EDP coating near the peg holes. The front jig stand caps were interfering with the firewall so I ground them down and reinstalled and it fit nicely. I need to pull the middle of the firewall back to get it to fit properly, it’s about 1/4” forward in this photo - I can push it back with little pressure so it should pop into place so I can run some self tapping screws in for now.



The ribs at the seam should be evenly spaced at 1-5/8” all the way across the seam.

[Nacs Fab]

I’ve skipped a few months working on the car to get some things done at my house. Installed mid rocker braces in the junk rockers. Not sure what brand they are but I’ve been working on them for weeks! Had to fab some small pieces to fit where they are mis-stamped.



If left alone this hole is visible just below the quarter panel seam. Bent up some 16ga MS






Installed the mid rocker braces then had to press them into shape due to the stamping issue.



Bo


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[Nacs Fab]

Both rockers required major work to get to fit properly but it’s close enough to get it mocked up. I’ll try to mock up the entire body shell, then tweak as needed and eventually pull it back apart to finish prepping and welding it.






After inner mini tub was in place I decided to put a quarter on temporarily so I could mock up a wheel in place. I hope I can get the suspension to set this low. I’m running leaf springs with 1” drop, 2” drop perches from Funkhouser Race Cars and front adjustable spring eye pockets from Innovative Racecraft. Can’t wait to get the shell done so I can start fabricating suspension and assembling the Engine.




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[Dragncar]

Nice work, you are a talented fabricator.