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Old 06-16-2010, 09:48 PM
SteveOw SteveOw is offline
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Mine arrived today as well B man. I did have a Question About log Manifold.
I decided to use 1423 felpro gasket. When I held gasket and manifold up to head
it looks like you see a lot of gasket when installed. Does anyone every cut gasket
once installed ? Just did not look right to me. Thanks again !





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Old 06-16-2010, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveOw View Post
Mine arrived today as well B man. I did have a Question About log Manifold.
I decided to use 1423 felpro gasket. When I held gasket and manifold up to head
it looks like you see a lot of gasket when installed. Does anyone every cut gasket
once installed ? Just did not look right to me. Thanks again !





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No gasket needed if both surfaces have been machined. I have never used one. But,those logs look like someone has tickled them a bit.

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Old 06-16-2010, 10:25 PM
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The steel shim manifold gaskets do have some additional material in between and around the ports but I've always left them alone. The gaskets came looking that way from the factory, the factory original look is always fine by me.

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Old 06-16-2010, 10:35 PM
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I've used the Felpro gaskets and have always had good luck with them. I usually trim them down with snips so that you can barely see them.

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1969 Bonneville Safari- cross country family cruiser. .
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Old 06-16-2010, 11:02 PM
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Yea, I got to looking around and I thought the 1423 was just for headers. Felpro does have another gasket Fel-Pro QMS9499SH , looks to have less material outside sealing area. But I think I will stay with 1423. And yes I have been on these logs for about a week but they already had attention when I got them. They are ready to install !

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Old 06-16-2010, 11:24 PM
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I'll bite since I don't know. What is the butterfly valve for and do I need it if I install the logs?

Thanks
Dave

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Old 06-16-2010, 11:51 PM
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The butterfly valve was intended to improve drivability when the motor was cold. The flap was closed until the motor warmed up there by forcing exhaust through the crossover under the carb, thus getting the motor up to temp quicker.

Pontiac eliminated the flapper by 1969 so no you don't need to run it for proper operation.

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1966 GTO
1969 Lemans Convertible- F.A.S.T. legal family cruiser. 12.59 on G70-14 Polyglas tires. 1.78 60'
1969 Bonneville Safari- cross country family cruiser. .
1979 Trans Am 400, 4-speed, 4 wheel disc.

View from the drivers seat racing down Atco Raceway- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhYDMdOEC7A

Ride along in the other lane-http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIzgpLtF_uw
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Old 06-17-2010, 12:20 AM
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heat under the carb helped atomise the fuel on cold days. they were still using them through 76. If your car is in a high state of tune you may not need it but let your car warm up (Takes a bit longer).

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Old 06-17-2010, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
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they were still using them through 76.
On What? Every '69 and newer pontiac I've owned and seen didn't have them.

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1966 GTO
1969 Lemans Convertible- F.A.S.T. legal family cruiser. 12.59 on G70-14 Polyglas tires. 1.78 60'
1969 Bonneville Safari- cross country family cruiser. .
1979 Trans Am 400, 4-speed, 4 wheel disc.

View from the drivers seat racing down Atco Raceway- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhYDMdOEC7A

Ride along in the other lane-http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIzgpLtF_uw
  #30  
Old 06-17-2010, 09:20 AM
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My wifes 77 Firebird with the stock 400 had a flapper.Its a seperate piece that goes between manifold and headpipe. The manifold is flat,the flapper valve has the bell for the exhaust pipe.It is the 3-bolt type.It is in the service manual. Its called E.F.E (early fuel evaporative) system.
The 2-bolt manifolds stopped using the flapper valve.
Craig

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Old 06-18-2010, 01:36 PM
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This TATA I am working on had a flapper on the driver side. Since the 79' TA Motors were held over from '77 model year (see date codes)they had them.

I took out the flapper though and welded a bolt into the hinge tunnel to seal it up.
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Old 06-18-2010, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1qikta View Post
I took out the flapper though and welded a bolt into the hinge tunnel to seal it up.

Did you use a MIG? I have a mig and soon to have an ARC welder. I was curious if I could use my mig on this.

Thanks
Dave

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  #33  
Old 06-18-2010, 04:07 PM
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I used a well fitted bolt and welded it with a Lincoln Electric MIG welder.

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  #34  
Old 06-18-2010, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1qikta View Post
I used a well fitted bolt and welded it with a Lincoln Electric MIG welder.

Thanks!! I have the same welder...

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  #35  
Old 06-19-2010, 03:31 AM
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Hmm... I've got to learn the new jargon... what I've always called "heat risers" became E.F.E. systems!

SteveOw- any "theory" behind your removal of the center ports divider?

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  #36  
Old 06-19-2010, 10:17 AM
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Well, you learn something new everyday. So the heat riser flapper thing went away in '69 and came back again as part of the emission control system in the mid '70s?

Jack, that center port divider is another thing the Pontiac engineers changed their mind on- I've got a bunch of sets of logs and only a couple have the divider. I don't recall the dates on the ones with them or without.

The set on my Lemans right now are '70 castings that don't have the divider.
BTW, my lemans ran a 12.76 at Lebanon Valley yesterday with logs... and G70-14 Polyglas tires. Those log manifolds aren't the hinderance that most people believe!

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1969 Lemans Convertible- F.A.S.T. legal family cruiser. 12.59 on G70-14 Polyglas tires. 1.78 60'
1969 Bonneville Safari- cross country family cruiser. .
1979 Trans Am 400, 4-speed, 4 wheel disc.

View from the drivers seat racing down Atco Raceway- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhYDMdOEC7A

Ride along in the other lane-http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIzgpLtF_uw
  #37  
Old 06-19-2010, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Jack, that center port divider is another thing the Pontiac engineers changed their mind on- I've got a bunch of sets of logs and only a couple have the divider. I don't recall the dates on the ones with them or without.
My 70 GTO got one of each!! Early Nov. 69 car,....... manifolds weren't that much earlier from memory.

Thanks for the thread too b-man.


Last edited by 70Steve; 06-19-2010 at 11:39 AM.
  #38  
Old 06-19-2010, 11:33 AM
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Well I would assume that it would be easier to seal the gasket with the divider removed. I guess that I will cut them out when I open up the out port.

Thanks
Dave

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  #39  
Old 06-20-2010, 10:11 PM
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Nope, no theory. In my case the center was flaking off, like it was really catching heat, so when I started to polish things up it would just flake off like rotten metel. So I took it out. Now looks great, all polished up and I think things will flow better with it gone. One bad note, I am sending my pypes down pipes back tomorrow, the coller will slip right over the bell at the end of the pipe. When I tighten the coller to the manifold the pipe will just pull loose. It just pulls it over the bell when tightened. Anyone ever have this problem ? Very Disappointing.

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Old 06-29-2010, 01:56 PM
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Nice thread Bart. You often come up with some interesting and instructional topics.

I have a largely original '66 WT 389 with the original heat riser valve still moving freely.
I also had a '69 Buick LeSabre some years ago that had that separate insert piece with the heat riser in it. Kind of a neat idea considering how those things always seemed to get stuck. With style, you could just toss it and get another one.

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