[cnc]

Dam that looks great……dataway
Elarson once u get that in your hand we need pics in place on the dash…

[Elarson]

I'll definitely post pics. We all need to appreciate dataway's finished product!

Eric

['ol Pinion head]

Looks great!

Dataway, if you need a used radio bezel to confirm the edge, can drop one in priority mail.

[dataway]

OPH ... thanks bro, I might, I've got a couple offers to send me one ... soon as I know this first try fits OK I'll probably take someone up on that to see if I can take it up a notch.

[CraigGT37]

Dataway,
What 3d printer are you using? I have been taking classes on 3d printing, we are using a Stratasys Objet260 , and the F370 printers. They use can print supports that can be dissolved in a liquid based solvent. That would work very well for something like this. Those printers use Grabcad Print as a slicer. I use an Ender 3 pro at home for little things.

[dataway]

Craig, I'm using an Ender 3 S1 Pro, using the Cura slicer, using Inventor for most of the modeling, AutoCad for any complex drafting that needs to be done. The Stratasys machine are very advanced machines, industry level stuff there.

The issue with this project is that the visible surface must look very nice, so really needs to be printed with the visible side down against the textured PEI bed. Even soluble supports are going to leave artifacts on the finish. And at this point consumer level soluble support isn't great, and typically requires a dual extruder.

The whole part is pretty straightforward other than that .. built up, with the visible face on the bed ... I don't see a problem adding any of the features .. but, the visible face WILL be flat as opposed to the depression in the OEM part. The only reason the OEM part has a depression is that it was stamped out of thin gauge steel.

For the final product I'd like to see a part with a step on the back that mimics the OEM "lip" around the edge, and mounting bosses that are the right height and backup against the metal frame of the dash/console, with either screw holes .. or a tapered plastic pin that extends through the knob shaft holes that will take a clip on the back.

Would be an extra bonus if it just had notched prongs on the back that just pushed into the radio knob holes.

I'm going to have to ask someone to send me a radio bezel that I can use as a pattern ... then I'll post the model updates here as they evolve.

[unruhjonny]

I am not posting to seem to take away from any of your points of limitation on this new one...

Originally Posted by dataway

... The only reason the OEM part has a depression is that it was stamped out of thin gauge steel.

..

Are you sure about that?

I assumed that these were just like the radio faceplates, and the covers that the console pocket got before the opening was molded over (because the circuit board was in the space where the pocket used to be);
I am pretty sure these plastic, and were injected into a mold.

[Trevor78]

I already posted pics of very plastic originals for both versions.

[unruhjonny]

Originally Posted by Trevor78

I already posted pics of very plastic originals for both versions.

I am curious, do you happen to have a picture of the rear side of the 70-77 plate?

[dataway]

Yeah, I don't know what I was thinking

So evidently the depressed center is for appearance sake ... plastic they could have easily made flat on the front if they wanted to.

Every time I look at a picture of those OEM delete plates in my head I see the stamped metal driver side kick panel vent block off, which has an identical lip around the edge and almost the same textured finish.

The problem is that a 3D printer kind of makes things like a layer cake ... you can build up whatever you want .. but it doesn't like bridging gaps with no support.

I can print the model with the visible side facing down, and flat, and build up any profile I want on the back, with a beautiful finish on the visible side.

I can print the other way, with the back down and the proper depression in the front, but that leaves the back flat with no mounting points.

You know, I'm going to try what Craig suggested and print it using some support structure on the back ... on a long flat part like this it can be a bit hinky, I'll see what the front looks like when done that way.

I'll make up a test model ... expect results tonight.

[dataway]

Originally Posted by unruhjonny

I am curious, do you happen to have a picture of the rear side of the 70-77 plate?

YES, I'd very much like to see that ... I have a picture of the back of the later model (Thanks HeldforRansom) it uses a posts system that takes a clip.

[unruhjonny]

Just a thought;
you could print it with a flat (textured) surface and provions for attaching;
Then separately print the 'lip', with maybe a thin backing that could be cut out;
The lip could then be glued/epoxied onto the plate.

If you get a radio faceplate, you could use it for all of your measurements, including the attaching points.

[dataway]

unruhjohnny ... I also thinking along those lines .. kind of a two part solution.

[dataway]

Here are some photos of a test piece.

I shrunk it down to 1/4 size (so it doesn't take 3 hours to print) but left the Depth measurements the same ... so the lip, mounting bosses etc. would be the same as a full size piece.

So bear in mind all the photos are taken from maybe 8-12 inches away ... any patterns or textures you see would be much less noticeable on a full size piece.



This photo shows the visible side of the part straight from the printer. The texture/finish you see there is what would be visible in the car.





I took a photo of it catching the light so you can see the pattern better, the finish is somewhat shiny.





Here is a photo of the back side with the supports still attached.






Here is a photo of the back after the support were removed, which is kind of a pain, the PETG plastic is quite strong .... kind of a ripping, tearing procedure to get them off ... as you can see quite a rough surface ... but it would be hidden. Still functional by all means, but not pretty. Removing the supports from a full size piece would probably be a 20 min procedure. Again bear in mind it looks worse due to the close up nature of the photos.





Here is a close up of the raised portion on the front, bear in mind at 1/4 scale it loses some detail ... just like a scale model car. This model has some inaccuracies, I just whipped something up to test the principle.

Personally I don't know if the juice is worth the squeeze to give up the very nice front finish to get the proper depression ... but that's kind of up to you guys. I've got one headed to Elarson for a critique ... we'll see what he says about the finish.

Still other options in the bag based on suggestions from the folks here.

[unruhjonny]

the recipient could finish it as they so desire - kind of like a model kit.
In my opinion, This looks great!

[CraigGT37]

Dataway, I use Cura also for slicing at home. In the class I am taking we had to experiment with putting a nut inside a print. I had to put a 1/4-20 nut in a cube and be able to thread a bolt into it freely. In Cura there is a print "pause at layer" that can be done in the g-code. That allowed me to pause the print and insert the nut and continue printing overtop of it. If there is a way that you can make a separate "buck" out of wood or metal to act as a support and pause the print, insert the buck, then continue the print using the buck as the support. Then when print is done the buck can come out, leaving the lip and creating the impression.

[dataway]

Cura's "pause at layer" can be a bit hinky with the Ender 3 S1 Pro for some reason. I typically just use the "filament change", and I think b25 for the code type instead of Marlin, and add an M300 before and after the string, otherwise the Enders tend to do some funky stuff when resuming printing. Has worked great so far.

That idea is very interesting ... I have no idea how PETG would stick to the buck ... probably not bad if it was the right material. Makes me wonder if a person could print the buck ... and then treat the surface with something that would prevent the PETG from adhering too well, but .. well enough to work.

I could use the model from Inventor to extrapolate a perfect size buck ... probably wouldn't even be too difficult to make it out of aluminum, the PETG would stick to it I think ... but then easily release when cold. Going have to check out your idea .. surely someone is using that method right? I mean it seems like a good idea.

However, I am somewhat losing sight of the goal here, to come up with a model and method that the average person can download and print without a lot of hassle. I can slowly back off the support percentage and find out what the minimum is, that could make a lot of difference ... the pics I posted were printed with 20% support instead of the standard 10% because I didn't want artifacts showing up on the visible surface.

HeldforRansom has got a radio bezel on the way to me now that I can get some good measurements off of.

[Elarson]

USPS claims that the prototype plate will arrive here tomorrow. But Wednesday is a busy family night so it might be Thursday before I can post pix and comments.

Eriv

[cnc]

Dataway u are doing an amazing job very Impressive ...Elarson look forward to the pics

[Trevor78]

If you wanted to check the shape and size, mainly the end angles, someone could scan an original 70-77 radio bezel on a printer, with a ruler for scaling. The next best thing to having it in your hand. It just looks like a lot of work based around guessing. Looks good though.

No, I don't have a rear photo. It was a very rare part for the early version. I only had the one photo and one shown in a car. Always saved for when someone needs a pic 5 years later.

Also, the rear is 'the same' as the 78-81 version other than having the knob holes moved to suit dash. They have the extension pins that have a self-cutting nut on thew rear to secure in place.

Here's a diagram from the various early Assembly Manuals.

2023-02-15 (2) by Ben, on Flickr

And photo of rear of 78-81 which I would have supplied if knew you'd be printing straight away! This is the part the OS was sent by error. I bet they haven't changed their ad.

GM 10001245 radio delete 78_81 NOS rear by Ben, on Flickr

Radio delete panel2 10001245 by Ben, on Flickr

And random shot of a '78 Esprit with Radio Delete. Many of these vehicles only kept the plate for first few weeks, were still fitted with radio harness and aerial option but had already planned to replace with a non-GM radio head unit.

Many reproductions (probably only one rebranded as many brands) have a chrome border which I think looks better, but not sure any originals ever had it, while the radio version of the bezel did have the chrome border.

78 Esprit original radio delete blank plate by Ben, on Flickr