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#1
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Aftermarket brake lines to convert '65-up to dual-reservoir MC...anyone use them yet?
I've seen these in a few catalogs, looks like a low-impact way to get a dual MC in our bigguns. Or is it a Chevy B-Car item that gets passed off as, "it must fit a Pontiac, they're all the same, anyway."
Also, if this looks like the wrong way to go, please point me to a thread for a '65-6 conversion to a dual MC from the suicide jar. I spent an evening searching the forum threads, but did not see a complete resolved conversion story. |
#2
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I have purchased pre-bent lines for fuel and brake rust replacement. I have generally been disappointed. It is NEVER a direct replacement. There is always some damage in shipment requiring some bending and straightening and it cost 2-3 times as much as a coil. So if I have to bend to fit anyway, might as well start with a coil. Nickel/Copper will never rust and is rated for high pressure brake systems. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to mgarblik For This Useful Post: | ||
#3
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I guess I didn't do an actual build thread when I converted by '63 GP, but I used a Cardone 1838 from Rock Auto, and bent my own lines.
The original use was for a 67 Bonneville. I'll be interested to see how you do, since with mine the proximity to the wheel liner caused me some problems. It all worked out in the end but the process was a bit touch and go for a while there. K
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'63 LeMans Convertible '63 Grand Prix '65 GTO - original, unrestored, Dad was original owner, 5000 original mile Royal Pontiac factory racer '74 Chevelle - original owner, 9.85 @ 136 mph besthttp://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/ My Pontiac Story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 "Intro from an old Assembly Plant Guy":http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 |
#4
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K
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'63 LeMans Convertible '63 Grand Prix '65 GTO - original, unrestored, Dad was original owner, 5000 original mile Royal Pontiac factory racer '74 Chevelle - original owner, 9.85 @ 136 mph besthttp://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/ My Pontiac Story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 "Intro from an old Assembly Plant Guy":http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 |
The Following User Says Thank You to Keith Seymore For This Useful Post: | ||
#5
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I switched to manual brakes at the same time. The distribution block and lines came from inline tube but I had to rework them, probably because I had no booster. I also had to redo the front lines and redo the rear line to fit. I just spliced in short lines with flare unions.
Car is a ‘66 Catalina. https://www.inlinetube.com/products/...hoCN0wQAvD_BwE
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" Darksiders Rule "
Last edited by misterp266; 05-01-2023 at 03:57 PM. |
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#6
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I'm going thru that conversion on my '64. Using stainless Inline Tube lines for '64, will have to fab 2 short lines up to the new MC. So far, have the 4 lines in from the firewall back; slight tweaking needed in a few spots.
Will have to fab 2 short new lines down from the new MC... and it looks like I have the wrong front crossmember line (catalog listed 'narrow' and 'wide' engine crossmembers (??), and apparently I chose wrong). May just fab that one, too. I had a bigger issue with the hoses I also bought from them; the rear 'axle' hose was completely wrong- was male/female when it needed to be female/female. |
#7
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If you are using the existing brakes changing to a dual master is easy and you really don't need a kit. Just use a 1967 big Pontiac master cylinder. Disconnect the rear brake line from the junction block. Buy a length of brake line with fittings that reaches from there to your master and connect the two with a coupling and connect to port on new master. Connect the original line that went from the master to the junction to your new master's other port and plug the open opening in the junction block that used to go to the rear. Bleed brakes and you are done.
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#8
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I just did this last year on my 66 bonneville. Used a 67 M/C like other said with pre-bent stainless lines and distribution block from Inline Tube. Also used the M/C to distribution block lines from Inline Tube. It all went together, but the distribution block is REALLY tight between the power steering gearbox and the driver's side inner fender. Having 3 lines come out of the distribution block in a "T" doesn't give you much flexibility to re-align it. It's also really hard to get wrenches in there to tighten everything up. If I did it over again I think I would skip the dual distribution block and follow Goatracer's reccomendation to just run the line from the rear straight to the M/C.
As far as using pre-bent lines vs. making your own - I think the pre-bent lines saved me a lot of time, however I think I would have been happier with the results had I bent my own and routed things a little differently (only at the distribution block). If you have the time to bend your own I'd suggest that approach, but I wouldn't hesitate to use the pre-bent ones again. If you don't want to spend the time bending your own and don't mind being limited to factory routing the pre-bent are fine. Also think about what you may be doing on the car in the future. At the time I did my brakes I didn't want to buy all the flaring tools. Now I'm rebuilding my engine and need to re-route the transmission cooling lines so I had to buy flaring tools. |
#9
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I’ve done master cylinder conversions using premade lengths of brake line from the local parts store several times. They come in multiple different lengths that are already plenty close to what you need, no cutting or flaring tools needed.
You don’t need bending tools either, the regular steel tube is easily bent by hand.
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 |
#10
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#11
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Red\black 65 Grand Prix 467 E-head stroker, Viper T-56 6-speed, 4.10 spool |
#12
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Work fine. 4 wheel drum. Yes, the pedal was replaced with one from a manual brake car for more leverage. Best thing is that the pedal is consistent and is nor effected by lack of vacuum to a booster.
They are still drum brakes and ideally should have front disc to stop better but I’m working on a different project now.
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#13
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I got the side-to-side front line to work after 20-30 mins of finessing. Tiny short line from distribution block to driver's brake hose is not good. It's about a half-inch too short after more cursing & finessing... but more concerning; the flared end (either) doesn't fit into the brake hose female end- the flare is too wide. Figuing its garbage anyway, I ground the 'brim' of the flare until it fit [just to give it a proper F-U] and the flare nuts (either) won't thread into the hose end, and neither will a spare piece of brake line. Hose must be FUBAR. The (4) Inline Tube lines from the engine compartment back were OK- minimal tweaking required. Sigh. |
#14
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misterp266, two questions about your power to manual conversion: (a) curious what you did for a pushrod and (b) do you think changing the pedal is a must? Any info appreciated. I am wanting to go from power to manual on my 66 bonneville...thinking generic corvette dual master from MPB and the same kit you used from inline tube...
thanks! |
#15
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Honestly don’t remember on the pushrod but yes, changing the pedal is a must. It will pivot at a different point to give you the added mechanical advantage needed when your leg is doing all the work!
A ‘66 manual pedal isn’t easy to find either…..
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#16
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Thanks. Crumbs. A 66 manual pedal sounds impossible...
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