[keith646671]

Want to get hood done before it is gone. It may be too late but am wondering if there is a way to strip and prep an original hood that appears pitted Was thinking of using "Aircraft Paint Stripper", hoping it would gently take rust and paint both with it. Then not sure what product to use, if rust completely gone then possibly a converter - zinc based primer - then fill and sand. Returning to original Sunfire Red. Dont want to blast, I think too thin.

[Formulabruce]

I would get it blasted with milk jug plastic beads. Many blasters use it or walnut shells.
After that you can use vinegar ( cheapest) but need to keep it wet for 30 min before rinsing. Make sure there are ZERO black dots in any pits.
Eastwood makes a product called fast etc as well.
Rinse and dry quickly, use kleen strip wax and grease remover. Dry it again.
At this point you can use SPI primer. Or a " GOOD" EPOXY primer like DP40LF.
All this needs to take place at 70-80 degrees oF.
2 coats of primer 30 min apart.
Good luck.

[Sirrotica]

My 73 T/A was last painted with lacquer, that over the years crazed and exposed the metal. I used phosphoric acid to clean out the pits and sealed it with primer after cleaning off and neutralizing the rust pits.

How to for removing rust with Phosphoric acid:

https://www.howacarworks.com/bodywor...efore-painting

I have also used electrolysis to remove rust as you can easily build a tank big enough to submerge large parts with a lumber sides and cover the lumber with plastic sheeting to form a pool to submerge a large body part. Some people have built pools large enough to submerge a whole frame in to treat a frame for rust. The waste water is just water with baking soda dissolved in it, and is non hazardous to just let soak into the ground.

How to for removing rust using electrolysis:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pp3q_-7dyko

Both methods work well as I have used both, and cost is minimal for either method.

[400 4spd.]

I agree with Brad on using acid. It goes where blast media can't, and it will lift the rust out of the the steel. Here are some pictures of a Mustang we got in that had been sanded years ago. That led to surface rust everywhere.
We saturate cotton cloth and let the wet material lay on the surface over night, covered with plastic. The next day you have crusty black cloth that rust has adhered to. It can take several applications to get a clean surface.

[400 4spd.]

This is what the quarter panels look like after acid. We save the blaster for the serious rust.

[keith646671]

Wow, some good info here THANKS! Was setting up for electrolysis with a sturdy plastic bin big enough for cylinder head and crank. Got a 24V Schumacher charger and sacrificial plate to fit bottom of bin and washing soda to form "electrolyte?" hadnt gotten to using yet. Setting up my shop now. Was thinking of lumber "boxes" to fit a heater to to powder coat, maybe right for acid dipping as well. Had eyeballed Redi-Strip in PA I think. Will try suggestions here first.

Steering box is locked on 64, have replacement to install so I can make mobile again without disassembling front end. Just had frame blasted and primer/painted for another project, intend no less for 64, and 71 Formula. it was 800$ (a Monte frame for my Cutlass 4spd project) Maybe I can do next ones at home, but 800$ price be hard to beat. I still have to get old one out of Cutlass ... figure a one man way to do. Might need more manpower for certain things .. will to get frame into basement. Then on to Formula and GTO. Making room in basement so I can work dolled rolling cnassis new lines, suspension brakes, get rear I want installed. Want 3:42 posi for minnie mouse Cutty. Cutty on stone now, will get nose off completely, interior out so I can redo carpet and any floor work necessary, reduce weight .. get body off frame and just high enough to roll out chassis. and be secure till I can roll new one under. Tree limb broke original windshield I noticed yesterday