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Old 05-09-2023, 10:02 AM
TRADERMIKE 2012 TRADERMIKE 2012 is offline
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Default !967 TH 400 "Fresh rebuild", Problem in shifting!

Mike here, it's been a while since I have been on the forum. I am back with a problem with my first rebuild of my 1967 Th 400 Trans. I have first, reverse, park and neutral. I can't get to second without raising up to 5,000 rpm, but when I use the gear vendors in the "on" position it will shift to the first half of second gear (I think the GV is the gear not the 2nd gear in the TH 400). I went back into the valve body and found the governor screen had collapsed and clogged with new friction material. I have read that some people discard this screen, should I? Secondly, the 1-2 accumulator valve bushing is in poor shape due to improper installation procedure, my fault, I forced it. I need the 1-2 accumulator valve bushing. I searched to no avail and I don't want to replace the valve body just for a broken bushing. I think the trans is not up shifting for this reason. The detent solenoid is working and the trans. down shifts, but driving at the 4000-rpm range is heating the vehicle up to overheating and I have to pull over. So, once I find this part, I can get back to testing and tuning. If a Trans. specialist sees this question please return me your answer.

If you want more detail on my build, please read in my posts "To build or not to build"

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Old 05-09-2023, 01:56 PM
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Is the vacuum modulator connected to manifold vacuum and functioning properly? If the modulator is seeing zero vacuum, the transmission thinks it's in full power mode and will not shift until the governor tells it to.

As far as your other known issues, I think you have to correct those as part of the troubleshooting here.

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Old 05-09-2023, 02:27 PM
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Mine did the exact same thing until I remembered I forgot to run the vacuum line to the modulator. Would only shift when you pegged it.

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Old 05-09-2023, 08:31 PM
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Since an upshift occurred at high rpm, the vacuum mod hose connection, Modulator, and freely-moving modulator valve-in-Case are in question.


Check fluid level again too.

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Old 05-16-2023, 12:05 AM
TRADERMIKE 2012 TRADERMIKE 2012 is offline
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The Manifold vacuum is my vacuum source and is working, I have removed the Valve body and found that the Accumulator valve Bushing was damaged when we installed it by exerting to much force. We removed all the valving about 6 times over the last 2 years in our efforts to find the problem. I have ordered a remanufactured Valve body because I could not find just the Bushing that holds the accumulator valve.

Cost $114 delivered from Wittrans.com, best price for a loaded Valve body on the web. I will be very happy if this is the last fix on this fresh remanufactured TH 400 that my roommate and I personally rebuilt. Took this long because it is the first Trans. I have built, a learning experience I will never forget. I had to watch many videos and read the TH 400 service manual and many more documents from the internet. I went into the forums also to learn even more. I had to buy all the parts and tool up with a large vice, Bushing driver and a Trans. mount I added to my Engine stand. I hooked up a come along to the shed truss for the lift, the Trans. was attached to the Gear vendors unit. I bought a new Torque Converter also. The complete build is in my "to build or not to build", on the PY forum, under TraderMike2012. When the Valve body comes in and is installed, I will let you know how it works. I can say that I did have first, neutral, reverse and park plus, the trans. did downshift and would go into passing gear.

I had to cheat some by using the Gear Vendors by turning it on at 40 mph but the Trans. would shift at 5000 rpm no matter how many times that I turned the screw in at the Modulator. Also, we vacuum tested the Modulator using a pump and it held. The Govenor was removed, taken apart and reassembled and we found no problems there. My Trans. is a 1967 PC code, I hope they send me the same high-performance valving as I had. I made some upgrades to the original factory setup; all is documented in the forum.


Last edited by TRADERMIKE 2012; 05-16-2023 at 12:12 AM.
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Old 05-19-2023, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRADERMIKE 2012 View Post
The Manifold vacuum is my vacuum source and is working, I have removed the Valve body and found that the Accumulator valve Bushing was damaged when we installed it by exerting too much force. We removed all the valving about 6 times over the last 2 years in our efforts to find the problem. I have ordered a remanufactured Valve body because I could not find just the Bushing that holds the accumulator valve.

Cost $114 delivered from Wittrans.com, best price for a loaded Valve body on the web. I will be very happy if this is the last fix on this fresh remanufactured TH 400 that my roommate and I personally rebuilt. Took this long because it is the first Trans. I have built a learning experience I will never forget. I had to watch many videos and read the TH 400 service manual and many more documents from the internet. I went into the forums also to learn even more. I had to buy all the parts and tool up with a large vice, Bushing driver and a Trans. mount I added to my Engine stand. I hooked up a come along to the shed truss for the lift, the Trans. was attached to the Gear vendors unit. I bought a new Torque Converter also. The complete build is in my "to build or not to build", on the PY forum, under TraderMike2012. When the Valve body comes in and is installed, I will let you know how it works. I can say that I did have first, neutral, reverse and park plus, the trans. did downshift and would go into passing gear.

I had to cheat some by using the Gear Vendors by turning it on at 40 mph but the Trans. would shift at 5000 rpm no matter how many times that I turned the screw in at the Modulator. Also, we vacuum tested the Modulator using a pump and it held. The Govenor was removed, taken apart and reassembled and we found no problems there. My Trans. is a 1967 PC code, I hope they send me the same high-performance valving as I had. I made some upgrades to the original factory setup; all is documented in the forum.
Mikes Reply: I just got back from Riviera Beach Fl, some 50 miles away to pick up the rebuilt Valve Body from Wittrans .com. Salesmen Dave originally was to send the Part directly to me, free of charge and never did, I specifically asked if I qualify for free shipping. Now, Dave said they don't deliver to home address, must be a business address for free shipping, he lied to me. Now, I go to pick up the part and they can't find it, how lame is that, after all the bull****? So, Dave is not at Riviera location, he is in Daytona Fl. Now, he is Reordering the part and mailing it to me, at my home adress for an additional $25 to $35. What about my fuel, time plus the fact that it was their fault? I am not happy, they should have eaten the delivery fee, the customer is always rite. What about Transparency in business? I am getting sick of being ripped off. Now, let's see what happens next, I call them Nit -Wittrans now! I just hope this fixes the lack of upshift issue due to the Accumulator Bushing damage we caused ourselves? I will fill you in soon. Mike out. P.S. I asked before and nobody answered yet, " can I remove the screen that is located in my Valve body core, just before the tube that feeds the Govenor"?

It turns out that the screen collects debris that can choke off the Govenor Valve? Has anyone split the Govenor tube and inserted a Micro-filter, used in say (Power Steering fluid)? It seems to me that using a Microfilter split into the Govenor Tube/pan area (in my case) is possible, because My Trans. fluid filter is located on the side case area in 1967, it is the rectangular type? I have seen flat and cylinder Microfilter types on the market and the filters can be cleaned or replaced. I also want to mention that if the rebuilt Valve body Accumulator Valve Bushing does not fix this upshift issue, then there is a second Modulator valve in my spare parts for me to try, for most of you seem to agree that the Modulator to be the culprit!


Last edited by TRADERMIKE 2012; 05-19-2023 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 05-20-2023, 12:10 AM
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Leave the screen in. Take the cannolis.

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Old 05-20-2023, 07:41 AM
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In most cases with the TH400 not upshifting till really high RPM's is modulator related.

Even so there are two other players in that game, the governor and downshift solenoid.

I'm not sure why you have a bunch of debris filling/collapsing the governor screen, flag went up there when I saw that comment.

You also mentioned damaging the accumulator bore. Did you take the VB completely apart for some reason? That's risky business and can very quickly get one into big do-do as it only takes one valve in backwards or spring on the wrong side of a valve, or spring left out, etc to screw the pouch with that sort of thing.

I suppose replacing the VB is a good move at this point, hopefully it will cure the issues but if you've got a buttload of material moving thru the unit I suspect the problems may not be over.........

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Old 05-25-2023, 11:20 AM
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The screen in the valve body is small and with this fresh rebuild it seems the particulates come from the fresh clutch packs. There are no large metal pieces. Still, I must ask, can I eliminate this screen, as I have seen in videos or should I stick with the factory and keep it in? In addition, I was thinking of splitting the Governor inlet tube and adding a microfilter in-between, have you ever done this or heard anyone who has thought of this fix? I like the fact that the TH 400 in 1967 came with this filter. It must surely keep the debris out of the Govenor Valve. We took the Valve body apart about 4-6 times while diagnosing the TH 400 over the past 2 years and we followed the book when re- assembling it. There was, on the last installation a problem with the accumulator aluminum Bushing and I used a bigger hammer and sadly made it worse than on prier installation, I could not repair it nor can I find one to replace it, so I ordered a remanufactured unit and I am still waiting for it, problems with the vendor. The Valve Body is re-buildable using Sonax equipment, however, I opted to purchase a remanufactured unit, for less than the tools would cost me, plus I am inexperienced, even though I read how to perform the boring procedure. After rebuilding this TH 400 and all of its individual parts I am confident that after doing our checks and re-checks, we should have a good Trans. for years to come. Everything works and the pressures are all there, so, once we install the newly rebuilt Valve body we will see if that is the last obstacle to overcome. Mike out, thanks for your input. P.S. We repaired the Detent Solenoid wire and cleaned the part completely and tested the pull and it works great now. We also checked the switch at the Carb. area and added a small LED light that comes on at 70% throttle when the passing gear kicks down, this way we can see the light come on as we adjust the kickdown switch.


Last edited by TRADERMIKE 2012; 05-25-2023 at 11:32 AM.
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Old 05-25-2023, 11:08 PM
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Doesn't hurt to check the Governor gear for apple core teeth.

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Old 05-26-2023, 08:37 AM
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I've rebuilt enough TH400's I could line them up end to end and walk on them all the way to where you are in Florida and never once, ever did I ever have a single issue with the governor screen getting all clogged up, upshifting issues where it either didn't upshift at all or waited till the engine was about to throw a rod before the shift occured unless the modulator was bad, didn't get the vacuum line hooked to it, or the gear was sheared off the governor.

As a general rule I do NOT take the VB completely apart unless I'm removing a portion of it to make modifications like full manual control, etc. Even when I've taken them apart I much prefer to do ONE valve at a time, put it right back in, and move to another one. The way those items roll around on a cookie sheet even sitting on a shop towel scares me too much to attempt it.

99.999 percent of the time a good soaking in the parts washer, or a dip in a bucket of mineral spirits, blowing it all off with compressed air and some brake blean to help, and manually checking the movement of every valve in it with a small screwdriver is enought and it will work fine once placed back in service.

Where most folks screw up with this sort of thing is taking the entire thing completely apart then trying to put the jigsaw puzzle back together using exploded views from ATSG or other published sources.

You have to keep in mind here that over the life span of the TH400 a LOT of changes were made to it, especially in the VA and separator plate areas. Mixing/matching components in those areas, for example, without having a few under your belt leads to poor performance once the unit is placed back in service.

These problems are further complicated by using Internet sources for modifications. Most of the time you'll be OK, but you can and will encounter a unit that is set up different and despite your best efforts it's not going to work for chit after all the modifications.

I ran into that about 20 years ago with a mid-1980's Ford E4OD. It had one of those triple layer VB's and enough check balls to fill up the cup you had your coffee in this morning. When I took it apart I paid very close attention to checkball locations but a few slipped out and fell into the pan, so it left me not knowing exactly where all of them came from. That is NEVER a good scenario.

So I used the ATSG tech pubs for check ball locations and the unit did NOT work for chit once placed back in the vehicle. After several attempts to make it work by taking the VB out and going clear back thru it checking every single valve, check ball, etc I sent it to a transmission shop with a high end scan tool and they couldn't find anything wrong with it?

So as a last ditch effort I called ATSG, very friendly and helpful folks back then. Got a guy on the phone that asked me EXACTLY which unit I had and he said, "oh, those are a mid-year change-over and you can't use either of our pubished scematics for the check ball locations." One place (going by memory here) looked like it took one but was omitted, and one place that looked like it never had one took a checkball. So after 200 man hours of pissing around with that piece of bovine excrement problem solved.

Just one in 1000 lessons learned from doing this sort of thing. With VB's in particular keep it SIMPLE. Don't strip them all the way down if they came from a known good working unit. Clean them up, verify everything is moving and nothing binding or hanging up anyplace, give them a generous amount of lubricant, recheck all movements and put it back in service...........FWIW.......

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Old 05-26-2023, 05:25 PM
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Good advice, as I wait for the Valve-body to come in, I would like to mention that I bought the reconditioned clutch springs for each clutch pack and installed them in all the holes. The factory did not fill all the holes and I was told (by the vendor and internet gouruse) that they will only raise the line pressure to the clutch pack being used to shift. Was that poor advice, plus, could that have anything to do with the issue that I am experiencing? I can't try my optional Modulator until I see what happens after the V.B. installation. In addition, we were very careful when R+R the Valves in the V.B. and we investigated them one at a time on 4 occasions and on the other 2 times that we took them all apart, we separated the springs and valves in a box, lined in paper. It is true that the parts do want to roll around, but we figured out any cross contamination of parts. The Govenor gears are in good condition and this Modulator is holding vacuum and the valve is installed correctly. When the V.B. comes in, I will inspect the Modulator lines, Valve and vacuum source, plus, the Govenor valve once again, for any break-in clutch material released into the Transmission Fluid during the latest break-in driving. Also, I would like to mention That a B+M shift kit is installed and I use only 5 check balls. I am not modifying the Valve Body for Trans-braking or racing. If you have the time to read the other thread about my Trans. build, see "To build or not to build my TH 400" on this PY forum. This will give you a complete overview of this particular Trans. re-build. Thank you for your input, Cliff.


Last edited by TRADERMIKE 2012; 05-26-2023 at 05:54 PM.
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Old 05-27-2023, 05:39 AM
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The springs are there to push the apply piston off when hydraulic fluid flow to the clutch drum ceases. The springs control the release and to some extent the apply. The factory had all that figured out and there is seldom any need to mess with any of it. Not uncommon to see two springs missing across from each other. If you see more missing than that someone was messing around in there. Removing springs does virtually NOTHING to help the shift program.

Even with that said the better Transgo kit comes with a set of custom springs for the direct drum to prevent clutch apply based on really high RPM's, or that was my understanding even though I can't see how centrifical force would easily cause that issue. Some "builders" just drill a bleed hole and claim that will prevent clutch apply based on RPM but in all the years building these units I've never once observed a problem with that deal do don't worry about it much.

I use and recommend the Transgo shift kits. Most "builders" come up with their own "recipe" to double feed direct and shift program. Transgo does it for you and no need to leave out any parts. I've never been a big fan of leaving off sealing rings, center seals on apply pistons, tossing out most of the check balls, driving plugs in the case, and drlling huge holes in the separator plate.

The Transgo kit also provides the "Jack Armstrong" direct clutch retainer for the case, the HD direct clutch springs, and detailed instructions to help set up the shift program. Also included in the better kits are the modified 1-2 shift valve and plug for the exhaust hole in he VB to provide full manual control of the upshifts. You can do most of that with a home-brew "recipe", but the kit makes it so easy and gives you parts that are difficult and expensive to obtain so it's a no brainer to just buy the kit instead......IMHO......

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Old 05-27-2023, 08:31 AM
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Post 11 is as-if someone watched me doing builds and took notes. 100% on.

I have kept a "Gold-Reserve" known-good valve-body in the event of a whacked-out valve-body is suspected.

Longk ago early ~1980s i tore down about 3 valve bodies 67-70 vintage and took notes. Well i missed that the 1-2 or 2-3 shift Red valves may have a series of 3 diameter changes which allows a fella to find interference-fit, in 1 whereas the other fits with no suspect (a bad deal to operate). Therefore thou shalt keep the VB and valves matched.

The notes show that nearly half the VB bore-valves have no Variation, whereas the rest have wholesale changes which become obvious and beg the question of what's better? Easy answer is 68+ is better than 65-67 if there is a choice to make. 65-67 being good and equally responsive to "Recipe" mods that keep the VB valving stock.

68+ VB must have been done for cost-reduction or/and grit reduction/mitigation.

TH400 VBs are a design-Production-operational success story in Fluid-powered state machines.

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Old 05-28-2023, 12:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff R View Post
The springs are there to push the apply piston off when hydraulic fluid flow to the clutch drum ceases. The springs control the release and to some extent the apply. The factory has all that figured out and there is seldom any need to mess with any of it. Not uncommon to see two springs missing across from each other. If you see more missing than that, someone was messing around in there. Removing springs does virtually NOTHING to help the shift program.

Even with that said, the better Transgo kit comes with a set of custom springs for the direct drum to prevent clutch apply based on really high RPM's (or that was my understanding). Even though I can't see how centrifugal force would easily cause that issue. Some "builders" just drill a bleed hole and claim that will prevent clutch apply, based on RPM, but in all the years building these units, I've never once observed a problem with that deal, don't worry about it much.

I use and recommend the Transgo shift kits. Most "builders" come up with their own "recipe" to double feed direct and shift program. Transgo does it for you, without leaving any parts out. I've never been a big fan of leaving off sealing rings, removing center seals on apply pistons, tossing out most of the check balls, driving plugs in the case nore drilling huge holes in the separator plate.

The Transgo kit also provides the "Jack Armstrong" direct clutch retainer (installed in the case). Plus, the HD direct clutch springs, plus, detailed instructions that help set up the shift program. Also, included in the better kits are the modified 1-2 shift valve and plug for the exhaust hole in the VB that provide full manual control of upshifts. One can modify a Trans. with a home-brew "recipe", but the kit makes it so easy and gives you parts that are difficult and expensive to obtain. So, it's a no brainer to just buy the kit instead......IMHO......

You said:
"Also, included in the better kits are the modified 1-2 shift valve and plug for the exhaust hole in the VB that provide full manual control of upshifts".

Mikes response: I would like to say that my Trans. came with a B+M shift kit and it works fine in my application. I street drive this car so, If I want to push it some all I do is use the Gear Vendors. The smooth low-end shifts go 1-3 by 20 -30 mph? My Valve body came in tonight and I compared it to my original one. The reason that I re-quoted your statement is that the Valve Body that they sent me had the drain hole plugged, since I am not modifying the Valve Body for Trans. Braking, manual shifting or reverse manual shifting, should I drill out the plug? I have not done any of the mods. you spoke of. I don't understand why they plugged this hole to begin with, I can remove the Valving and drill out the plug if you say to. Also, they plugged a hole in the front accumulator bore, it turns out that mine was not drilled in that location any way. I can only assume that some other year Vehicle used that hole for some reason like a pressure reading to the Carb. or anti-pollution reasons? If you say too, I will take pictures of both Valve Bodies, side by side, for comparison. One of the Valve Bores, in the remanufactured unit, is a smaller diameter size than mine, mine was supposed to be high performance. I feel they sent me anything they could. I suppose that I should be happy that they could build a Valve Body from several units used parts, the best way they could. After all the parts are 50 years old and rare. I could not for the life of me find the Bushing that I needed.


You said:
"Removing springs does virtually NOTHING to help the shift program".

Mikes reply : "What about adding springs", I filled in all/any empty holes with reconditioned springs from a vendor.

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Old 05-28-2023, 01:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud View Post
Post number (11) reads as-if someone was watching in on me, while building a Transmission and taking notes along the way. 100% spot on.

I have kept a "Gold-Reserve" known-good valve-body in the event of a whacked-out valve-body is suspected.

Long ago, in the early 1980s, I tore down about 3 valve bodies (67-70) vintage while recording notes. Well, I missed the fact that the 1-2 or 2-3 shift valves have a series of 3 diameter differences, which allows a fella to find interference-fit, in one. whereas, one will not fit the other (a bad deal to operate). Therefore, thou shalt keep the VB and valves matched.

My recorded notes tell that nearly of half the VB bore-valves have no Variation. Whereas the remaining ones have wholesale changes, that become obvious and beg the question of "what's better"? An easy answer could be that (68+) is better than (65-67), that is if there is a choice to make. The (65-67) Trans. being manufactured well from the factory and equally responsive to "Recipe" mods. that keep the VB valving stock.

The (68+) VB must have been manufactured for cost-reduction or/and grit reduction/mitigation.

The TH 400 VBs were a design, Production and operational success story (from the start) in Hydraulic Fluid-powered state of the art machines.
Mikes reply : Please allow me to edit this post for the future, it will be easier reading this way, many will learn from our conversation. "If I ever have to build another Trans. in my life time, I would go about it the same way as this build, very slowly, moving inches not feet at a time".

My roommate and I read lots of info. over the web and extrapolated as much GOOD info. and tossed the bull...We watched many videos and went into the forums for free books like the 1967 Th400 Factory Manual and ASTG book. I downloaded much more than I needed and we compared Pontiac, Buick, Chevy and Olds manuals for different perspectives and views. By reading the old Information for easy reading so we could understand the simple explanations from that era. Most people don't have 2 years like me to study and take notes, I tooled up and purchased parts as I went. I made some phone calls to vendors and it paid off. If I can only get done already so I may get back out there driving the Vehicle. Everywhere I go people stop me and tell me that at one time they had a car just like mine. To me it was a learning experience. I have built motors over the years but the machine shops did most of the work. This Trans. build is different from my past engine builds in that only my roommate and I touched it.

  #17  
Old 05-28-2023, 08:15 AM
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The exhaust hole is usually plugged in conjuction with grinding two flats on the end of the shift valve (the Transgo kit comes with a fully machined valve for that location). This mod is simply to provide manual control when the shifter is placed in the "L" or 1st gear positon. Otherwise the trans will automatically upshift from 1-2 at high RPM.

No negatives at all from doing that modification except you have to be aware that if you manually shift to "L at at vehicle speed the trans is shifting to 1st gear.

Since you purchased the "remanufactured" valve body hard to tell exactly what you got or what was done to it? Sure is a lot of work to install just to find out it's not making the grade and has to come back out. Judging by your comments above unlikely you'll get much support from it from the Vendor either.

I'm NOT fond of the B & M shift kits for the TH400 and don't use them here. They work OK, but typically too firm for my liking. The Transgo kit is more "scienced" out and fully adjustable for shift firmness, plus you don't have to leave out parts, block off a bunch of passages, or toss out half the check balls, etc.

It does't appear the that two years of research has paid off since you aren't up and running well, plus you have material plugging up the governor filter, and now outsourcing another VB.

IMHO you'd have been better off at the very start of the project to source out a "virgin" core and build it from scratch. I say that because it was heavily damaged and was ran that way long enough to "smoke" the unit. Then you would have known what you had and what you ended up with. I found that path the best choice in this hobby when it comes to most things, like engines, transmissions, carburetors, distributors, etc........FWIW.......

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  #18  
Old 05-28-2023, 08:29 AM
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Half-Inch Stud Half-Inch Stud is offline
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....just maybe the Converter sent metal through the fluid system.

My old adage after a good rebuild was to state " this TH400 will be old as reliable as the Converter in front." Therefore i would record the application, engine , and Converter intended by the Customer.

  #19  
Old 06-04-2023, 03:52 AM
TRADERMIKE 2012 TRADERMIKE 2012 is offline
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"It doesn't appear that two years of research has paid off since you aren't up and running well, plus you have material plugging up the governor filter, and now outsourcing another VB".

Mikes Reply: This was a good learning experience for me, I do all the work with my roommate because I can't afford to pay $100 per hour or more to hire mechanics, Plus I don't trust them to give me an honest price quote, that is why I purchased a Snap-On tool box full of tools for $1,500 many years ago.

It seems that we nailed the diagnostics on the head. We left the small screen out for the 300-mile break in procedure, but added a remote filter and installed the remanufactured Valve body and I am happy to say that the Trans. is now shifting. With the remanufactured springs, I can hardly feel it shift from first to second to third. The B+M shift kit I reused with new gaskets is not shifting as before. I have some more testing to do on this fresh rebuild and I want to readjust the B+M shifter linkage with both my roommate and I working together. I thank God that I finally won the fight this trans. gave me. I now have the confidence to build any Trans. that I will ever have to in the future. So far, we are at 50-55 mph running 2500 rpm and that drops to 1800 rpm when we use Gear Vendors. The modulator is at 4 turns in presently and the Trans. is shifting through the 3 gears by 25-30 mph approx. The Govenor is also doing its job.

I Installed a new Torque Converter behind a fresh rebuild 1967 TH 400 PC code and I have the satisfaction knowing I built it, remember your first Trans. that you built and how proud you were?

After we break in this Trans. I will change the filters and buy an extension to the filter in the pan to extend the filter down into the deep oil pan that we installed. I saved the original shallow pan in case it is too deep, for my car is lower than factory settings, because of the Hurb Adams suspension Springs. I figure that I spent around a thousand in parts and tooling up for this rebuild and if I bought one online with delivery the cost would be $2,500 - $3,000 built with the extras I incorporated. P.S. We decided to remove the plugged hole that they left in, because we don't want Manual valve Body, since they did not say that the Valve Body was altered for a Manual shift capability, I opted not to pull the Valves to Inspect if they ground the Lands on 1-2 shift Valve?

Also, I did not have to replace any hard parts after all, just some reconditioning to the Forward Drum hub, direct hub, direct Drum and rear reaction carrier Drum. We rollerized and shimmed where needed and kept tight accurate Tolerances too...


Last edited by TRADERMIKE 2012; 06-04-2023 at 04:41 AM.
  #20  
Old 06-04-2023, 04:21 AM
TRADERMIKE 2012 TRADERMIKE 2012 is offline
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The customer is me and we used a new Hughes 1800 stall converter, they claim is HD. I have a 1967 428 ci Pontiac motor with a Tri-power carb. system. We installed Johnson Hydraulic lifters, adjustable timing double chain, HD chrome moly push rods, new rocker nuts and HD studs, new oil pump and rebuilt the Tri-Power carbs. I use the B+M slap-stick shifter and HD Drive shaft ends.

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