[Alizar]

Finishing up my rebuild (1966 421 w/ Holley Sniper EFI) and noticed that the throttle linkage bracket that mounts on the rear left side of the engine interferes with the coolant passage plug on my Edelbrock head. What are people doing to get around this? Is it worth converting to a throttle cable? I'm pretty sure I can modify how the rear bolt mounts to make it work, but I'm wondering if it is worth the effort to clean/paint and re-assemble all the linkage? I don't see that you can buy replacement rubber bushings for them either?

[mgarblik]

I was able to install that threaded plug almost flush with the head intake surface. It only stuck out a small amount. You are using an allen head 3/4" pipe plug? I agree it is a fussy area and you may have to use some washers or make a little spacer for the brackets. I used some Japanese car radiator mount grommets to replace the ones for the cross shaft. I have allot of misc. stuff around here after 50 years of doing this stuff. A cable would work of course, but you would still have some rigging to attach it. I kind of like the mechanical linkage. It has a nice feel when it is all lubed-up and working right.

[Vid]

I’ll be watching this thread as I’m almost to the point where I’ll need to figure out my set up going from 2bbl to 4150 on an RPM.


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[Alizar]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

I was able to install that threaded plug almost flush with the head intake surface. It only stuck out a small amount. You are using an allen head 3/4" pipe plug? I agree it is a fussy area and you may have to use some washers or make a little spacer for the brackets. I used some Japanese car radiator mount grommets to replace the ones for the cross shaft. I have allot of misc. stuff around here after 50 years of doing this stuff. A cable would work of course, but you would still have some rigging to attach it. I kind of like the mechanical linkage. It has a nice feel when it is all lubed-up and working right.

I tried driving the plug in deeper, but I don't see how I could get it anywhere close to flush. I guess washers could work, I may just modify the bracket. My linkage is far from working right, so I wouldn't know about how a proper one feels. It was binding some prior to the engine rebuild. It also needs a lot of restoration. The end grommets are wallowed out.

[mgarblik]

The end grommets need to have some clearance to allow the shaft to slide back and forth left to right as the engine torques up on acceleration. Obviously, not all wallowed out though. I would think .030" clearance would be fine.

[TransAm400]

I switched to a Lokar cable set up on my 64. Works better and no chance of binding up. You might want to put a throttle lever extension on that Sniper also. They can be really touchy without it.

[Marv]

I converted to cable throttle on mine, then ended up changing to a drive-by-wire e-throttle as they're far easier to set-up and nicer to use.

[TransAm400]

Originally Posted by Marv

I converted to cable throttle on mine, then ended up changing to a drive-by-wire e-throttle as they're far easier to set-up and nicer to use.

I don't think the Sniper is compatible with any DBW but that would be cool.

[Marv]

Ahh that's right I think that option is only on the Terminator and Dominator

[Alizar]

Originally Posted by TransAm400

I switched to a Lokar cable set up on my 64. Works better and no chance of binding up. You might want to put a throttle lever extension on that Sniper also. They can be really touchy without it.

Is there a way to convert while keeping the original pedal, or do you have to go to something like a Lokar eliminator?

[Marv]

You'd have to put a turnbuckle or something in to switch it from a push-type actuation to a pull-type.