[gtorich]

Just noticed this today while getting ready to put the manifold on...........you cant see it in the pics but if i push against the vp seems like some oil is coming up.............car hasnt run since the work was done................the only thing i did was doing the leak test with the oil pan.............but i drained that out yesterday...........so i assume there might have been a little oil in there, i let it drain for about an hour.

Looks like the builder glued the gasket to the vp...........not to mention enough silicone all over the place................

Not sure what the fix would be here,. I cant imagine taking the vp off without god knows what falling into the engine no matter how careful i was.

I was thinking some ultra grey/black all along the edges............the front and back seem ok................let me know what you guys think.

Rich

[gtorich]

Oh, boy, this is how my day is going...............here are the pics

[BILL BOWMAN1]

Can’t really see much there. Did you try cranking the bolts down a tad? If it is glued to the pan, it should come off quite simply. If it comes off nicely in one piece, I would leave the gasket on the cover, clean it all off real good and put a bit of silicone on the block and head surfaces and reinstall.

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by BILL BOWMAN1

Can’t really see much there. Did you try cranking the bolts down a tad? If it is glued to the pan, it should come off quite simply. If it comes off nicely in one piece, I would leave the gasket on the cover, clean it all off real good and put a bit of silicone on the block and head surfaces and reinstall.

Hi Bill...........i didnt mess with anything, you cant see in the pics, but it looks like the cork is saturated with oil...........front and back look ok, its the long stretch in the middle on both sides............dont know if the builder even tried to fit it without a gasket...........that pan was on for 12 yrs, never a leak there before, but then again i cant remember a gasket that big on it either.........lol

I will see if i can find some old pics...........not that is gonna do me any good.

On a bright note...............got the clutch and pressure plate on today without breaking anything.

Almost forgot, anyone tried that VP from nitemare, only a few buck more than the tomahawk..................which i do have one, but it seems you really have to mess with that thing to make it fit.

Rich

[NeighborsComplaint]

I glue my hasket to the valley pan with 3M Weathersripping adhesive and let it dary completely before installing. The valley pan flexes as you tighten the hold-down bolts so you it needs to slide across the block gasket surface as you install.

For reasons you stated, I don't use sealant on the block where it can get scraped into the motor during a removal and re-gasket and the VP can be removed and replaced the the gasket intact if you should have to inspect lifters and cam at some point.

[gtorich]

Seems like my options are getting slimmer, just had the whole motor re-ringed............so it looks like my only options are add more sealant to the gasket and hope for the best.............or run as is and hope for only a small leak but i dont think that is gonna happen, i can see a little oil by just pushing on the gasket.............or risk replacing the gasket and stuff falling in the motor...............then i assume it will have to be taken apart and redone............oh boy

Rich

[mgarblik]

One again, another leak point for our beloved Pontiac engine. A huge oddly shaped sheet metal piece held in place by two small fasteners and expected to seal the block front and back as well as the heads over an 18" span. The secret to making them seal, much like the oil pan is to pre-fit the valley pan without a gasket first. I install the pan with the bolts and then carefully work the sealing surfaces with a small shot filled, plastic hammer. I carefully tap and bend the pan flanges until there is an even gap all the way around it. Then I remove and clean the pan really well. I glue the cork gasket to the pan with 3M weatherstrip adhesive and let it set for 10 minutes or so. I apply a thin coat of soft setting RTV to the entire cork surface of the pan gasket about 1/16" maximum. A thin skim. Then 4 little blobs of RTV in the corners. Then very carefully set the valley pan. I put a small amount of RTV under the shoulders of the two bolts and evenly tighten the fasteners. I look for a complete squeeze out of a tiny bit of RTV all the way around the valley cover. If you see the squeeze out, the pan is sealed and will not leak. I have had almost a 100% success rate with this area for over 30 years. Better than rear main seals and oil pans. Kinda sounds like your engine builder was not familiar with all the fussy little things a Pontiac requires. Every engine design has their challenges. Small Block Chevy engines have a terrible sealing issue between their cheap sheet metal timing cover and the front of the oil pan. There are parts and tricks to deal with that as well.

[gtorich]

Thanks Mike......................i guess i should be asking what would you guys do if in my situation.................risk taking the pan off and stuff falling in..........for all i know that could of already happened when he was putting the motor together................add some more sealant where i can see a little oil while pushing on the vp....................i guess the only thing that would drop into motor with be from the cork itself.................whats ya guys think.

Rich

[mgarblik]

I can't tell you what to do. But RTV will not stick and seal to oil. So if the cork is impregnated with oil, sealing from the outside won't work in most cases. The oil acts like PAM in a frying pan, keeps things from sticking. Clean and dry is the only way to make RTV seal. If the pan is clean, there is little chance of anything falling in the engine you can't retrieve. Generally, RTV falls off in long strings, not little pieces. Unless "Right Stuff" was used. Then you might need a new valley pan. It dries so hard, sheet metal parts are generally ruined on disassembly and it chips off in tiny pieces. That's one reason I don't use it. Other folks love it and are sure it's the only sealer to use.

[Vid]

Personally, perpetual leaks drive me crazy. If you have to pull the valley pan, I would do it. As for debris in the block, just take it off as slowly and carefully as possible. Shop vac the lifter galley immediately after removal of the pan. Change the oil (or strain the oil with a kitchen strainer) if you think any junk fell through. Install just as mgarblik does his. Should be good to go, minus any leaks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dragncar]

Best one I have found. Gasentach it to the pan with a drop of RTV in the corners. PCV need to go to the valve cover.

http://nitemareperformance.com/vpan.html

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Best one I have found. Gasentach it to the pan with a drop of RTV in the corners. PCV need to go to the valve cover.

http://nitemareperformance.com/vpan.html

Yeah, i was looking at that also, few bucks more that the tomahawk one........which doesnt exactly drop in either............did a search on the tomahawk pan for a 66, seems Mick had alot of issues with it.

I got it cleaned up pretty good today, but will still work on it.................im gonna do as Mike suggested, snug that puppy down and beat it with a sledge hammer or try to find that shot filled plastic one...........lol

Once again, appreciate the help

Rich

[Gach]

I think Butler has the extra thick cork gasket. For valley pan.

[grivera]

If the intake fit well over the valley pan previously this should be a pretty simple task. Remove, clean both the block and the pan gasket surfaces well and put in a new gasket with sealer. You can replace the bolts with studs to avoid over tightening and distorting the cam bearings.

[gtorich]

Couple pics for you guys keeping up with my neverending issues........got it cleaned up pretty good today.............these pics are without a gasket, ive been hitting them a little with a dead blow hammer, a 1lb one............think i might have to get a 2 pounder..................gaps are pretty good, but you can see in the pic with my hand i can still push it down a little further.................i have the bolts installed but only snug.............wont have a gasket untill tue.

i Did try a tomahawk pan i bought many moons ago from ppr, on a 66 that things looks like it need alot of work to fit..............so im gonna try to get this one to fit better.

Rich

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by gtorich

Yeah, i was looking at that also, few bucks more that the tomahawk one........which doesnt exactly drop in either............did a search on the tomahawk pan for a 66, seems Mick had alot of issues with it.

I got it cleaned up pretty good today, but will still work on it.................im gonna do as Mike suggested, snug that puppy down and beat it with a sledge hammer or try to find that shot filled plastic one...........lol

Once again, appreciate the help

Rich

Nightmares cover drops right in and is smooth and kind of springy. You do not have to smooth out anywhere with a rubber hammer.
Nice piece.
But I kind of think you are overthinking this.