[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

You really need to spend $30 on a pressure bleed setup instead of $40,000 on a divorce lawyer.

Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you a Word doc showing you how simple and easy it is to do it. You will never go back to pumping a pedal again.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/affo...-bleeding-kit/


Charles

Ordered all of the stuff to make this. Should be here by Friday. Ill make the plate and try it over the weekend. If this doesn't work, Ill have to start making phone calls.

[dataway]

Very cool ... going to have to build one of those to keep around the shop.

[Squidward]

I did this for my Firebird with Scarebird conversion (80 Cutlass MC). Worked well, but the mc will empty quickly.

I also did quite a bit of gravity drain with resupply bottle threaded into a spare mc cover - think of an automatic pet watering bottle that drops fluid when it gets low.

[Old Goat 67]

Originally Posted by Squidward

I did this for my Firebird with Scarebird conversion (80 Cutlass MC). Worked well, but the mc will empty quickly.

Me thinks you were doing it wrong.

I never waste more than about 2-3 ounces of fluid doing all 4 wheels.

[1967Tempest]

Ill video the build and the bleed.......

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

Me thinks you were doing it wrong.

I never waste more than about 2-3 ounces of fluid doing all 4 wheels.

Cutlass mc has a a small volume. When bleeding it to get out all bubbles, it would empty quick. During a drum/drum to disc/drum conversion with new calipers, rear wheel cylinders, mc, and distribution block, there was a lot of air. I had a clear tube on each bleeder, and it took a lot of purge to run clear.

[Old Goat 67]

I have done numerous vehicles with completely empty lines, new MC, calipers and wheel cylinders. Never waste very much fluid.
Were you letting all four bleeder valves open at once?

You are supposed to bleed only one wheel at a time. When bubbles stop coming out, shut it off and move to next wheel.
Plate on front reservoir, do RF then LF.
Switch plate to back reservoir doing RR then LR.

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

I have done numerous vehicles with completely empty lines, new MC, calipers and wheel cylinders. Never waste very much fluid.
Were you letting all four bleeder valves open at once?

You are supposed to bleed only one wheel at a time. When bubbles stop coming out, shut it off and move to next wheel.
Plate on front reservoir, do RF then LF.
Switch plate to back reservoir doing RR then LR.

Nope. One at a time, farthest to closest. Brake fluid was cheap. Maybe you were more efficient than I was.

My most recent effort on the Lemans conversion used gravity drain for the bulk of the fill, then used an air powered vacuum bleed to pull a few ounces of fluid through each wheel.

Maybe I'll make a pressure bleed cap for the Lemans mc just in case I go down that road in the future. Waiting for that build n bleed video!

[1967Tempest]

OK, the power bleeder does work. I do have a leak where I welded the air coupler to the plate. My mig135 wont do 1/4" plate so of course its booger welded. I do have a new MIG200, maybe Ill try that.

The fluid did not have any air in it what so ever. I did tkat the MC off of the booster and measured 1.5" of rod travel at 90% depression. Should I have more on this Disc/Disc MC?

The old Disc/Drum was roughly the same length and bore diameter. The fronts shoot up into the fender well when cracked, so I know that they are bled. Would yet another bench bleed help?

I cant imagine the fronts dont have enough pressure to stop the car... Inline tube said to plug the MC and test it, what would I be looking for???

Been in Florida for 7 months and have 3 miles on this car.....

THanks guys!!

[JLMounce]

Did you ever get up under the car and test the pedal with the single aft line clamped? That's going to give you the info on where to look for the issue.

start the car and have somebody sitting in the drivers seat. Crawl under the back and with a pair of pliers clamp the aft soft line before the T to the individual calipers. Then have the person in the drivers seat depress the pedal. If you've got a high, firm pedal, the issue is the rear calipers. If the pedal doesn't improve, the issue is either in the front calipers, distribution block or the MC.

Like I had mentioned before, I battled this exact same issue and ultimately out of frustration I ditched the e-brake caliper for a standard caliper which instantly fixed the issue. Its my opinion that the metric caliper is basically crap and the reproductions just don't work correctly.

If you absolutely must have an e-brake on the car, my next recommendation is to upgrade to a shoe in hat setup. This typically uses the ford explorer discs and calipers.

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

Did you ever get up under the car and test the pedal with the single aft line clamped? That's going to give you the info on where to look for the issue.

start the car and have somebody sitting in the drivers seat. Crawl under the back and with a pair of pliers clamp the aft soft line before the T to the individual calipers. Then have the person in the drivers seat depress the pedal. If you've got a high, firm pedal, the issue is the rear calipers. If the pedal doesn't improve, the issue is either in the front calipers, distribution block or the MC.

Like I had mentioned before, I battled this exact same issue and ultimately out of frustration I ditched the e-brake caliper for a standard caliper which instantly fixed the issue. Its my opinion that the metric caliper is basically crap and the reproductions just don't work correctly.

If you absolutely must have an e-brake on the car, my next recommendation is to upgrade to a shoe in hat setup. This typically uses the ford explorer discs and calipers.

Completing this would cost more money as I would need plugs for the SS braided lines. If I must I must. I did adjust the e-brake like in the instructions you sent and the ebrake adjustment is perfect. THe cable works well too.

[Old Goat 67]

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

OK, the power bleeder does work. I do have a leak where I welded the air coupler to the plate. My mig135 wont do 1/4" plate so of course its booger welded. I do have a new MIG200, maybe Ill try that.

The fluid did not have any air in it what so ever. I did tkat the MC off of the booster and measured 1.5" of rod travel at 90% depression. Should I have more on this Disc/Disc MC?

The old Disc/Drum was roughly the same length and bore diameter. The fronts shoot up into the fender well when cracked, so I know that they are bled. Would yet another bench bleed help?

I cant imagine the fronts dont have enough pressure to stop the car... Inline tube said to plug the MC and test it, what would I be looking for???

How much air pressure were you using? 15 lbs wouldn't cause it to shoot out. I don't bench bleed the MC anymore as it's all taken care of when the system is bled with the pressure bleeder.

Inline must have been telling you to plug both ports of the master and check for good solid pedal, eliminating the master first by itself.

You could do that and then hook up just the front line with the back line still plugged up at the master to tell you the front system is good, and then add the back system in at that point.

Somethings really screwy there!

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

How much air pressure were you using? 15 lbs wouldn't cause it to shoot out. I don't bench bleed the MC anymore as it's all taken care of when the system is bled with the pressure bleeder.

Inline must have been telling you to plug both ports of the master and check for good solid pedal, eliminating the master first by itself.

You could do that and then hook up just the front line with the back line still plugged up at the master to tell you the front system is good, and then add the back system in at that point.

Somethings really screwy there!

The fronts shot out that high with the wife on the pedal. Maybe I will do that. Plug the rear and test for pedal that way. That plug is less than a 1$.

Just in case I do ditch these, which rear caliper did you end up buying?

[Old Goat 67]

Why weld the fitting, just a threaded hole in the plate and a screw in fitting.

[Old Goat 67]

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

The fronts shot out that high with the wife on the pedal. Maybe I will do that. Plug the rear and test for pedal that way. That plug is less than a 1$.

Just in case I do ditch these, which rear caliper did you end up buying?

I did not put disks on the rear. NOT NEEDED.
Only have 11" rotors on the front and the stock drum brakes on the rear.

Still have to watch your teeth on the steering wheel.

Will PM you my cell #, give me a call and lets see if I can help,

Charles

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

Completing this would cost more money as I would need plugs for the SS braided lines. If I must I must. I did adjust the e-brake like in the instructions you sent and the ebrake adjustment is perfect. THe cable works well too.

Without the ability to clamp that line, one other thing you can try is taking the car around the block with the e-brake fully engaged.

If, with the e-brake engaged, it has no, or very little stopping force, and the pedal improves in this situation, that again points to the rear calipers as the issue.

More than likely I think you'll find that the e-brake doesn't want to hold the car at all and that with it engaged your pedal becomes about 30% higher/stiffer as a result. That's an educated guess based on my experience doing the same.

[NeighborsComplaint]

I went through this with mine. If you are using the Eldorado style rear caliper with the "top hat" style rotors, you must connect the parking brake cables and preload the calipers via the parking brake lever. I found it easier to remove the caliper, connect the parking brake cable and reinstall. Also, the kit I had did not have the horse shoe clips for both sides of the bracket that retainis the parking brake cable so the would flop around. I put a clip on the outside and inside to retain the parking brake cable.

I burned through a gallon or two of fluid bleeding the brakes with a MiteyVac. I'd get a firm pedal and it would just go away. I found out that the bleeder screw on the rear caliper is not the high point and air remains trapped inside the caliper no matter how much you bleed it. I finally unbolted the calipers and swung them so the bleed valves were more elevated than the body of the caliper and then bled them with the vac. The pedal finally firmed up and the braking was fine.

[1967Tempest]

thats good to know.

Truth, I havent been motivated to check the MC first before rebleeding. I have been working on other things. I need to get this on my priority list. Once I check MC, I will try your technique.

Did you remove the caliper and rotor, and bleed the caliper with the rotor "in" it just off the car?