[carcrazy]

No major issues with them on my 67 GTO. Liked them much better than my Hookers!

[67ramair4]

Originally Posted by Richie Hoffman

i used half dozen sets of doug’s rd port headers in last couple yrs fit perfect even with manual trans z bar last set about
a yr ago drivers rear tube was a little different from the other sets had to cut bottom lever off z bar an move and reweld

Can you post something that shows what you did to make the Z bar work? Did you keep the zerk fitting installed?

[Richie Hoffman]

i don’t have pictures i just cut lower arm off zbar moved it over and rewelded it so it didn’t hit header tube

[sjdiesel]

I forgot about this thread. I installed these headers a few months ago and the fitment was terrible!!! They hit the frame everywhere. I had to hammer on almost every tube to get them to fit and dent the frame in one spot above the pass side engine mount to get them to fit. And even now with all the hammering one tube on the drivers side hits the frame. Drives me nuts but the only way to fix it is to pull the driver slider header which means pull the engine again. I had to trim 1/2” off the drivers side lower A arm rear mount. And I had to cut the header flange between cyl 2 & 4 because there is no way to get the header up over the dip stick.

Here’s some pics. Nothing like hammering on a $1k set of headers….. very unhappy with these headers. Only good thing is they don’t hang low.

[67ramair4]

Originally Posted by sjdiesel

Thanks for the info guys. Has anyone has to run an 1/8” - 3/16” spacer under the frame side engine mounts to get better header to frame clearance?

I have the spacers installed, without them, there is no way these fit! I have to dent #6 tube this afternoon to have clearance to install the gasket!

I have all new poly bushings on frame and A arms. Also, frame isn't bent. Installing these have been a miserable experience!!

My original D567 from 1974 are 1 3/4" tubes and 3" collectors, and the #6 tube was changed on the newer set causing the fitment issue!!

[64speed]

They fit perfect BUT the instructions are a lie. If the engine is out they have to go in first. If it’s in then you gotta take both motor mounts loose and bring it way up. If you have a factory bellhousing it may be better. I have QuickTime with starter bubbles on each side

[Rugratman]

I would suggest that you get the headers un coated and fit them as needed.
Then have them jet hotted.

Putting the pretty ceramic coating on first and then massaging them creates issues.

I also have a 67 with Doug's. They are the best header for sure.

PS. You will need lots of beer to help you install them. Small children should be out of earshot too.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[67ramair4]

Originally Posted by Rugratman

I would suggest that you get the headers un coated and fit them as needed.
Then have them jet hotted.

Putting the pretty ceramic coating on first and then massaging them creates issues.

I also have a 67 with Doug's. They are the best header for sure.

PS. You will need lots of beer to help you install them. Small children should be out of earshot too.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

My fridge isn't big enough for the beer needed!! As I said #6 tube is the issue not enabling the engine to sit properly.

[AG]

Originally Posted by Rugratman

I would suggest that you get the headers un coated and fit them as needed.
Then have them jet hotted.

Putting the pretty ceramic coating on first and then massaging them creates issues.

I also have a 67 with Doug's. They are the best header for sure.

PS. You will need lots of beer to help you install them. Small children should be out of earshot too.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

This is what I always do. Get them uncoated, test fit, install O2 sensor bungs and coat.

[gassman_67]

I have Doug's D port on my Kaufman heads, clearance is good, glad I got new engine mounts and some custom spacers that fit under the mounts.

[68WarDog]

Originally Posted by sjdiesel

I forgot about this thread. I installed these headers a few months ago and the fitment was terrible!!! They hit the frame everywhere. I had to hammer on almost every tube to get them to fit and dent the frame in one spot above the pass side engine mount to get them to fit. And even now with all the hammering one tube on the drivers side hits the frame. Drives me nuts but the only way to fix it is to pull the driver slider header which means pull the engine again. I had to trim 1/2” off the drivers side lower A arm rear mount. And I had to cut the header flange between cyl 2 & 4 because there is no way to get the header up over the dip stick.

Here’s some pics. Nothing like hammering on a $1k set of headers….. very unhappy with these headers. Only good thing is they don’t hang low.

Those headers are destroyed! Are those D or rd. ports? I run 2" rd. port Super Comp in a 70 A frame. Other than a minor #6 tube frame scraping over bumps. The fitment is great and the oil filter is easily accessible. I did cut the header brace between #2 and 4 for easy oil dip stick tube access.

[64speed]

I’m running RP Edelbrock heads with Dougs headers and I have no fitment issues. I also use a Wix 51258 or Baldwin B39 with a QuickTime scattershield and I can get them in and out fairly easy