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  #41  
Old 10-21-2008, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TempestFugit View Post
Besides having critical parts made of plastic, they are not made to be fixed. The whole thing is held together by a one-way spring clip that makes it hard to dismantle without making a mess out of the pin/clip that holds it all together. It could be done but not easily.

I've had mine apart last spring.. and I'm trying to visualize the actual parts. Cam, plunger affare, etc. Most anything that is molded (if that is the case) can be machined. Delrin is way over kill for this application but is more machine cutting stable then typical low grade plastics. If I can get the time to look into this mechanism - I think I could make up a few.

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  #42  
Old 10-21-2008, 04:33 PM
bb400ho bb400ho is offline
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we have a machine shop at work. i think ill see whats left of whats in there to see if we can machine one
thanks bryan

  #43  
Old 10-21-2008, 11:26 PM
Warpath Warpath is offline
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If you guys come up with something- let all of us know. I missed the one on Ebay some time back - been standing in the corner ever since waiting for the next dance!

  #44  
Old 10-22-2008, 11:46 AM
tom s tom s is offline
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I might have a X tra NOS cancel cam to loan to make some?Tom

  #45  
Old 10-22-2008, 11:50 AM
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pm sent

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  #46  
Old 10-22-2008, 06:05 PM
bb400ho bb400ho is offline
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tom can you post or email me a pic?

  #47  
Old 10-22-2008, 06:50 PM
tom s tom s is offline
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if you have a broken one they are exactly the same on both sides.I do know I have a NOS hub with cancel cam in it,maybe another cam assm also.Tom

  #48  
Old 10-22-2008, 08:37 PM
bb400ho bb400ho is offline
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Default 63 switch

i just took my switch out both of the cancel cams are broken off. looks like a tough part to machine. maybe not to hard to cast though. on some of the indexing conveyors we make we have the pallets cast. ill check into that. do you have any instructions on installing a nos cam? im wondering whats the best way to remove the old one. anybody have any ideas?
. thanks bryan

  #49  
Old 10-23-2008, 03:00 PM
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I'm confused, I think of the cancel cam as the part on the shaft that turns with the steering wheel. I've never seen that part break. The part that I usually see broken is the lobster claw like rocker arm that has those fragile, thin finger like ends. That part is held on a switch plate - (kind of like a breaker points plate) the arm rocks back and forth on a pin with a spring clip holding it down. which part are we discussing here?
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Last edited by TempestFugit; 10-23-2008 at 03:46 PM. Reason: add pictures
  #50  
Old 10-23-2008, 03:48 PM
tom s tom s is offline
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ths part that breaks off is on the ends of the plastic part on the first and second pic.I think it will be hard to machine but easy to cast but wont be cheap imo.tom

  #51  
Old 10-23-2008, 03:57 PM
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Even if you had a new casting, it would be a real PITA getting the old one off and the new one on because the 'shaft' it pivots on isn't a solid shaft, but a hollow shaft with the top part mushroomed over the spring clip. IMO it would take a surgeons touch to be able to disassemble and reassemble one of those things and have it hold up to real-world use with the springs and ball-bearing parts that are inside it.

  #52  
Old 10-23-2008, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triathlonx13 View Post
"tend to fall into the left turn signal when you hit a small bump in the road..... very weak.
You know, I've been thinking about what you said here and I think you may have two different problems. The cancel mechanism tabs break off and then the signal doesn't shut off after you turn, BUT the rest of the assembly feels OK and the turn indicator arm should stay in position. I suspect that somebody took it apart to see if they could fix the cancel and then didn't get it back together correctly. The whole assembly has a bunch of parts that need to go back together a certain way. Something may be wrong or missing on yours. (for instance there is a plastic bearing cup that can get broken pretty easily etc.) So you may be able to fix the droopy indicator arm (which I think is a lot more annoying than a non cancelling blinker) separately.

  #53  
Old 10-23-2008, 08:38 PM
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ok i got mine apart, pita. the rod that comes through was solid after using a dremel on it i ground it flush because i though there was another clip under the spring clip. it still didnt want to come off. i heated slightly with a propane torch and it came off. i was thinking about if other 63 gm switches might be the same and i found this cam on ebay. it looks the same as best i can tell. i will update after it gets here.
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  #54  
Old 10-24-2008, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TempestFugit View Post
I'm confused, I think of the cancel cam as the part on the shaft that turns with the steering wheel. I've never seen that part break. The part that I usually see broken is the lobster claw like rocker arm that has those fragile, thin finger like ends. That part is held on a switch plate - (kind of like a breaker points plate) the arm rocks back and forth on a pin with a spring clip holding it down. which part are we discussing here?
The "paw" or finger like feature would more then likely be Machined seperately with conventional methods then fastened to the main center section. Injection molding.... Not feasible, it would be very costly for the demand. The hub or cam could be machined easily.

Thanks for the pictures - great help!

.

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Old 10-24-2008, 11:58 AM
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my rambler uses the same piece as a ford truck..something else may interchange..

  #56  
Old 10-29-2008, 01:17 PM
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Default turn switch

ok, i got the part and was able to make it work. i had to machine a little clearance in the radius for the cam and horn contact. i also used a little heat to bring the claws closer together. its in there and works good, well see if it hold up. if anyone is interested the guy on ebay has some left.
thanks bryan

  #57  
Old 10-29-2008, 03:00 PM
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That's Great! keep us posted on how it works and if any problems develop.

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