[Transamric]

I'm remounting my front spoiler center section and using some of the new welting I bought here. BUT,...not sure which type of glue/adhesive is the best to use. Would think that it needs to be slightly flexible once cured since the welting will need to bend a bit for best alignment.

[1965gp]

I used clear silicone on my flares. Had to tape it down until it dried on some parts that followed a curve but haven’t had any issues.

[Norwood]

I suggest 3m weatherstrip adhesive

[78w72]

Best stuff to use for welting on 70-78 & 79-81 wheel flares is 3M plastic & emblem adhesive, have used it on a few t/a's with excellent results. It goes on smooth & allows for working time to position the welting which can take a bit to get it right all the way along the flare's edge then dries like super glue only stronger. Weatherstip adhesive is intended to apply to both surfaces then let skin over, once you put the 2 pieces together its an almost instant bond that doesnt allow much time to position the welting right, im sure it can work but the plastic/emblem adhesive works much better IMO. Was recommended by a long time t/a restoration guy.

I can provide a few more tricks I learned from him if interested for installing the welting to get the best results from paint & to look factory correct.

[Transamric]

Originally Posted by 78w72

I can provide a few more tricks I learned from him if interested for installing the welting to get the best results from paint & to look factory correct.

Tips greatly appreciated. I want this effort to turn out better than my last attempt, many moons ago.

[78w72]

I prefer to apply the welting before paint, Im sure it can be done after paint too but then the welting has to be painted separate and chances are the paint on the welting will crack being bent around & handled installing it.
I use the common grey welting sold by the foot at most places with 3M emblem glue applied carefully to the backside of the welting since if it gets on anything else it can act like super glue or model glue damaging paint or plastic, can use some masking tape to hold it in place if needed, if following the instructions of the glue you apply it to one surface then touch it to the other surface & pull apart for 10-15 seconds, when touching it back down it will hold & bond in about 30-60 seconds, but be careful doing that to be sure its positioned right when it bonds. probably best to apply to one surface & position it in place holding with your hands & masking tape to dry.
Also a good idea before gluing is to play with how the welting installs on the wheel flare & how it sits against the cars body, you can play with the profile of it somewhat to be sure it fits to the car body good... Ive seen some cars where theres a gap from welting to body, some flares can be distorted or aftermarket ones dont fit very well, but the way the welting is installed can cause a gap too, I position it slightly towards the car body if that makes sense so when the flare is installed the welting is pushing against the body making a good seal.

The other top secret thing I do, although Im sure I wasnt the first, is to use a T50 or similar size staple on the top end of the flare to secure the welting like the factory did, the top is a pretty tight right angle bend, the glue doesnt hold too well until its fully cured, the staple keeps it in place. Heat the legs with a propane torch or even a cig lighter while holding with pliers, then when still hot, carefully push it through the plastic of the flare (use original holes if possible) & the welting, when cooled bend the legs over like the factory did, be sure the staple is positioned right... its kind of tedious to do but works great & looks factory correct when painted.

The tip I got from the resto/painter guy that was popular on the forums for awhile, is to use some thicker .065-.085 weed whacker line wedged under the glued on welting where it touches the flare, this lifts the welting off the flare creating a gap to get paint on the flare & under the welting, then when paint is dried pull it out & the welting will lay down to the flare with good paint coverage... welting can shrink after many years in the sun, probably 20+ years, but Ive seen plenty of cars that had original welting that shrunk or pulled away. If you paint the flare first & apply the welting afterwards that obviously isnt a concern, but its a neat trick to do if you dont paint the flare first and avoids any issues with glue or other damage to fresh paint.

Sorry for the long post, wanted to be detailed as possible if you decide to use any of the tips.

[78w72]

I prefer to apply the welting before paint, Im sure it can be done after paint too but then the welting has to be painted separate and chances are the paint on the welting will crack being bent around & handled installing it.
I use the common grey welting sold by the foot at most places with 3M emblem glue applied carefully to the backside of the welting since if it gets on anything else it can act like super glue or model glue damaging paint or plastic, can use some masking tape to hold it in place if needed, if following the instructions of the glue you apply it to one surface then touch it to the other surface & pull apart for 10-15 seconds, when touching it back down it will hold & bond in about 30-60 seconds, but be careful doing that to be sure its positioned right when it bonds. probably best to apply to one surface & position it in place holding with your hands & masking tape to dry.
Also a good idea before gluing is to play with how the welting installs on the wheel flare & how it sits against the cars body, you can play with the profile of it somewhat to be sure it fits to the car body good... Ive seen some cars where theres a gap from welting to body, some flares can be distorted or aftermarket ones dont fit very well, but the way the welting is installed can cause a gap too, I position it slightly towards the car body if that makes sense so when the flare is installed the welting is pushing against the body making a good seal.

The other top secret thing I do, although Im sure I wasnt the first, is to use a T50 or similar size staple on the top end of the flare to secure the welting like the factory did, the top is a pretty tight right angle bend, the glue doesnt hold too well until its fully cured, the staple keeps it in place. Heat the legs with a propane torch or even a cig lighter while holding with pliers, then when still hot, carefully push it through the plastic of the flare (use original holes if possible) & the welting, when cooled bend the legs over like the factory did, be sure the staple is positioned right... its kind of tedious to do but works great & looks factory correct when painted.

The tip I got from the resto/painter guy that was popular on the forums for awhile, is to use some thicker .065-.085 weed whacker line wedged under the glued on welting where it touches the flare, this lifts the welting off the flare creating a gap to get paint on the flare & under the welting, then when paint is dried pull it out & the welting will lay down to the flare with good paint coverage... welting can shrink after many years in the sun, probably 20+ years, but Ive seen plenty of cars that had original welting that shrunk or pulled away. If you paint the flare first & apply the welting afterwards that obviously isnt a concern, but its a neat trick to do if you dont paint the flare first and avoids any issues with glue or other damage to fresh paint.

Sorry for the long post, wanted to be detailed as possible if you decide to use any of the tips.

[78w72]

not sure why it double posted... mods please delete the double post.

[burd]

I used clear silicone on mine back in the 80’s still good.
I’d put some flex agent in the welting when being painted, so I’d install after the flares have been painted.
I hear you can welting in colors now, so I’d install deff after flares are all painted, matchy matchy wasnt factory.

[Transamric]

Used the 3-M product last night on pre-painted welting (painted with a flex agent). Just barely gave enough "working time" to get the welting positioned just right. After about a couple hours, ran an additional bead across the backside seam, just as extra insurance. This morning all looks good. If I can make the time, it'll get mounted up this afternoon. Pics to follow, if anyone would like to see.

Thanks for the help and all the tips, guys!

[78w72]

Originally Posted by Transamric

Used the 3-M product last night on pre-painted welting (painted with a flex agent). Just barely gave enough "working time" to get the welting positioned just right. After about a couple hours, ran an additional bead across the backside seam, just as extra insurance. This morning all looks good. If I can make the time, it'll get mounted up this afternoon. Pics to follow, if anyone would like to see.

Thanks for the help and all the tips, guys!

Cool, im sure working & curing times vary based on temp & humidity. I didnt realize they were already painted, if the end bend worked out ok the staple is optional for a factory look. would like to see pics when done.

[Luru]

Hi does anyone no why the welting on my 77 T/A is separating from the fender. There is a gap now .5 inch open. Can it be glued to the fender. How can I get it back to hugging the metal?

[78w72]

The welting is attached to the flare itself, not the fender. So either the flares mounting bolts came loose or are broken allowing the flare/welting to pull away from the fender.

Need to inspect it further to see why is pulling away... maybe post a pic so others can see whats going on.

[70TA-RAIII]

I had a bad gap on one of my flares so when I took it apart to do new welting I noticed that part of the inner support structure had separated. I re-glued that part (the black) and that took care of the gap when I reinstalled the flare.

The blue tape is all part of the new welting install, the black sealer looking stuff is the 3M adhesive I used for the flare repair.

John