[shakerz]

Anyone here done (or intimately know one done) 70-73 in the aftermarket subframe with over under shocks, rack and pinion steering and all that to make it handle like a late model car? I was looking at the parts...about 20k worth. Would like to know how it worked out.

[weranc55]

Originally Posted by shakerz

Anyone here done (or intimately know one done) 70-73 in the aftermarket subframe with over under shocks, rack and pinion steering and all that to make it handle like a late model car? I was looking at the parts...about 20k worth. Would like to know how it worked out.

Buy a roadster shop full chassis for 12k

[shakerz]

Interesting thought. Roadsters always looked to me like they have the handling of horse and buck wagon lol. I have several cars so I considered doing one the way people want them today- fairly original shell but with modern suspension and power plant and interior mods as well. Looks like they seldom fail to bring over 100k.

[turbo69bird]

I think he means the company named roadster shop and a dabbed corvette suspension based chassis for your body

Art Morrison has a great chassi for 69 not sure about 70 up.

[Stan65]

I went with Detroit Speed (DSE) front and rear. I bought their front subframe with single adjustable Coil overs. And for the rear I went with the Quadralink with single adjustable coil overs. I also installed mini tubs.

I have yet to drive the car, but I am getting close. I went with DSE as I found nothing but rave reviews. Not a single bad one. Only comments I found were you could do this or that and save money.

Anyway here are a few pics.

Last 3 in paint are current.

Stuart

[Gator67]

I went with a Detroit Speed Subframe/front suspension (inc. r&p steering) and Quadralink rear suspension on my 70 Formula. Although I haven't driven it yet (it's being painted now), I have been in 2nd get cars with the exact same set-up, and I can tell you it's absolutely amazing how well those cars felt and handled. Like newer cars in some ways, but still raw like an old car too.

I will say that going this route is overkill for a car that's mostly going to be street/highway cruiser. The expenses also cascade. If you're going this far, you'd likely want mini-tubs, and for sure subframe connectors--installing these things, along with the Quadralink, will require cutting and welding. Then you have to figure out what you're going to do about a rear end, big brakes, wheels, tires. On this set-up, the engine sits back 1" so you have do deal with finding headers that work/building custom headers, steering shaft, brake and fuel line routing. It all sits lower, so that means extra-work tucking the exhaust up high. I bought my stuff before the full all-in-one chassis were widely available.

[Stan65]

And I didn’t ruin a Trans am. As this is what I started with. Lol

[Stan65]

If I wanted best bang for the buck with decent performance, look into Pro Touring F Body (PTFB) Dave will take care of you. He uses a much simpler approach.

And as far as the DSE stuff, I agree it’s a snowball on a tall mountain. Lol. They still have lower cost and intensive options. Like maintaining the rear leaves.

The original poster said $20000, I think you could go a long way with that if you do your own work.

[Gator67]

Originally Posted by Stan65

I went with Detroit Speed (DSE) front and rear. I bought their front subframe with single adjustable Coil overs. And for the rear I went with the Quadralink with single adjustable coil overs. I also installed mini tubs.

I have yet to drive the car, but I am getting close. I went with DSE as I found nothing but rave reviews. Not a single bad one. Only comments I found were you could do this or that and save money.

Anyway here are a few pics.

Last 3 in paint are current.

Stuart

If you have mini-tubs, did you have any trouble fitting inside rear quarter/armrest panels, or did you have to mod them? Could you post some shots of how you routed your exhaust?

[Gator67]

Originally Posted by Stan65

If I wanted best bang for the buck with decent performance, look into Pro Touring F Body (PTFB) Dave will take care of you. He uses a much simpler approach.

And as far as the DSE stuff, I agree it’s a snowball on a tall mountain. Lol. They still have lower cost and intensive options. Like maintaining the rear leaves.

The original poster said $20000, I think you could go a long way with that if you do your own work.

Trying to stay Pontiac powered also makes things a bit more expensive.

[Stan65]

I haven’t modified the panels yet. I’ve searched and it seems most people split them, use sheet metal, rivet them together, fiberglass them, finish them with Upol filler, SEM texture spray, and finally paint them with SEM Landau Black. I dug up 2 pairs and I am gonna try to leave each a little long and attach them together to eliminate filling the gap and then follow the process above. Hope that makes sense.

Sorry to take this too far off topic Shakerz.

[shakerz]

Great information with a nice number of options. Thank you gentlemen! I knew we had quite a few bold fabricators here! I have a lift, a tape measure, plumb bob and the standard cutting and connecting equipment....patience and a willingness to ask questions. :-)
I have a friend here who installs old cars, mainly pickups on late model frames, ie, 59 Ford pickup on a dodge Dakota frame with nothing removed from the Dakota except body- leaves drivetrain, etc. He can almost tell you which swaps will almost bolt up without mods to frame holes, center of wheel wells align to wheels and the usual clearance issues are minor. As y’all said, the handling and driving is stunning.

[shakerz]

Originally Posted by Stan65

The original poster said $20000, I think you could go a long way with that if you do your own work.

Thank you that answers a big question.

[Stan65]

Shakerz,

I’m just a one man band doing this in my home garage (shop). I do not do this for a living and never have. Always been a hobby.

With the knowledge and tools you have, and your friends you should be good to go.

I built that body fixture using the fisher body manual and a cheapy tram gauge I bought off Amazon. Measure, measure, measure. Lol

With research, effort, the ability to shrug off failures and conquer you should be fine.

[napster]

This might be a stupid question from a definite novice, but when you guys went with the DSE rear coil over conversion did you have to go with a different rear end housing or can the GM 10 bolt be used? I will not be going with the mini tub option. Sorry for the hijack.

Thanks.

Jim

[Stan65]

Napster,

I see no reason you couldn’t use the 10 bolt as long as the axle tubes are 3” diameter or you will have to modify the brackets provided for the difference in diameter. I went with a 9” with an aluminum center section to save weight and make it easier to change gear ratios. And I had one. Lol.

[johnta1]

Awesome work, Stuart!
I'll have to try and see that when we come up to IL in June.
(if you still have it)

[Stan65]

John,

This ones a keeper for sure. Let me know when you are in town.

[keith k]

Originally Posted by Stan65

I went with Detroit Speed (DSE) front and rear. I bought their front subframe with single adjustable Coil overs. And for the rear I went with the Quadralink with single adjustable coil overs. I also installed mini tubs.

I have yet to drive the car, but I am getting close. I went with DSE as I found nothing but rave reviews. Not a single bad one. Only comments I found were you could do this or that and save money.

Anyway here are a few pics.

Last 3 in paint are current.

Stuart

Wow... incredible build!

[1965gp]

I put the entire Pro touring F body kit on my 72. You can Jack up one corner of the car and the entire side lifts up level. Amazing product but it is very stiff. I did aluminum body mounts and since it’s a street car that might have been too much. It does look badass with the bars connecting the cowl to the A arms!