The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum

          
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-04-2008, 02:32 AM
70RamAirIIITA's Avatar
70RamAirIIITA 70RamAirIIITA is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Yucaipa, CA
Posts: 170
Default Tail Section/Trunk Pan Replacement: Advice Needed

To tell you the truth, I've been embarassed to post photos of my 70 TA project for fear of people ridiculing me, telling me to do a rebody or to sell it and get a better car.

Since I have my mind set on bringing my TA back to it's former glory and NOT doing a rebody, I'm looking for advice on how to tackle this repair in a methodical way. The tail section and lower valance are toast, as is the trunk pan. There is also areas on both sides of the trunk channel near the tail section where the metal has completely rotted away. The floor pans have some issues, and the left 1/4 looks like it's going to need to be replaced if not patched. The cowl will also need replacing as well.

Before doing anything else I need to take care of the rear section as I feel this is the worst and probably most difficult to repair and needs to be done before I can even get the car on a rotisserie. I have a very clean 70 Esprit parts car from which I'll be using the tail section from.

I'm thinking of drilling out the tail/valance panel first, then the trunk pan. Once the trunk pan and tail have been replaced from the sections on the parts car, I was thinking about cutting the sections of the trunk channel needed from the parts car and welding them where the rot is between the trunk and tail panel. Should the left 1/4 be taken out as well at this time or should it be removed after the tail section has been replaced? Any advice as how to approach and accomplish this repair will be greatly appreciated. Just trying to save a TA.........

Thanks in advance.



__________________
'70 Trans Am Resto - Where Every Bolt is an Adventure...........
  #2  
Old 01-04-2008, 01:40 PM
punkey's Avatar
punkey punkey is offline
PY Staff - Tech
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Emmaus, PA
Posts: 381
Default

Hello,
As you can see here http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=545103 I'm alomost at the same point as you. I'm pretty much just an observer but maybe my progress pics will help. He did cut the left bottom quarter section off on my car. It needs replaced anyway and the trunk is one piece so he thought it would be easier this way. He first started with taking the outer tail panel section off. Now he's working on getting the trunk pan out. We'll be working on it again Sunday so I'll try to post the new pics Monday night. If you have any questions let me know & I'll ask my boyfriend/mechanic

__________________
Come on Mom, lemme drive!!
  #3  
Old 01-04-2008, 01:41 PM
niceta's Avatar
niceta niceta is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 542
Default

You definitely have your work cut out but anything can be done I believe. I am not a body man but I have a TA project on the go with similar problems, granted not quite as serious as yours.
I have been told by several people to get the body down to bare metal before doing any cutting so you know exactly what you are dealing with. I had one guy (ex-body man) I know look at mine and tell me it was shot and that I should find another car and just cut the car from the doors back and replace it all. After I settled down a little and regained my composure (almost snapped on the guy LOL), I got several other opinions and decided that I was in no hurry to get the car on the road and that I wanted to learn. Shortly thereafter I knocked all the paint off, Gutted the interior and pulled the hood fenders and wiring. It turned out to be not as bad as the body guy thought.

I now have a better picture of what I need to do. I have found a couple other issues that will require attention but things are so much clearer when you have a clean slate to work with. You are lucky to have a doner car.

From what I have read you should have the car supported on it's suspension before cutting and only do one panel at a time. You can also weld support braces in to help heep the body aligned while cutting parts out. Sorry I can't be more help but I am sure there is someone here that can offer more technical advice. How are the frame rails, inner rear fender and trunk drop offs?. Your rear window channel is also more than likely rusted as this is a famous spot for rust. Again no prob if you have a doner.

If you decide to cut your quarters out and replace them I would buy some of your leftovers as I need a right upper quarter. Anyway sorry for the long post good luck with the restore.

Click image for larger version

Name:	trans am 8.JPG
Views:	105
Size:	71.9 KB
ID:	116975

Click image for larger version

Name:	misc 028.jpg
Views:	140
Size:	134.4 KB
ID:	116976

Click image for larger version

Name:	misc 030.jpg
Views:	125
Size:	103.1 KB
ID:	116977

Click image for larger version

Name:	misc 032.jpg
Views:	193
Size:	135.4 KB
ID:	116978

  #4  
Old 01-04-2008, 03:32 PM
70RamAirIIITA's Avatar
70RamAirIIITA 70RamAirIIITA is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Yucaipa, CA
Posts: 170
Default

Hey Punkey & NiceTA,

Thanks for the advice - and here I thought I was the only one with these issues. It's nice (?) to know there are others with the same kind of problems, maybe we can start our own support group - The Body Rot Kids! I'm sure our cars would've been taken to the scrap yard years ago and would not have been looked at twice as being rebuildable. People telling us to do a rebody or sell the car and look for a more solid platform just don't get it - it takes a lot of determination to deal with issues like these, but I feel the car deserves a second chance - regardless of how it was treated before I got it. You know, I fell sorry for the car and what previous owners have done to it.

Like you, I'm in no hurry and I want to do as much as I can on my own without having to farm the car out to a body shop where it will cost thousands of dollars to repair. I need to finish pulling the dash out and the interior will be stripped, then I was thinking about taking the body to get soda blasted. I know taking it down to the metal will show all of the flaws but I didn't know if I wanted to do that before or after I took on the rear repair job.

There's a ton of bondo on the 1/4's and rear spoiler; someone had the brainstorm of molding rear wheel flairs along with the normal front flairs and molded the rear spoiler as well. I won't go into telling you about the interior where they used black metallic vinyl and diamond tucked the seats and door panels. The interior was originally bright blue and they painted everything metallic black except for the dash bezel which they painted gold. I'll post photos of the nastiness in the project section soon. The doors are toast but should I keep them on while doing the repair work? I've read that if you take the doors off while doing panel replacement that things can get out of alignment.

Maybe someone who's done a similar repair and has already been through it all will chime in with more advicel. I also want to apologize for the large pictures, I just got a Photobucket account and I'm still trying to learn how to post photos.

__________________
'70 Trans Am Resto - Where Every Bolt is an Adventure...........
  #5  
Old 01-04-2008, 04:19 PM
Rack776's Avatar
Rack776 Rack776 is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Eastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 516
Default at least yours is a trans am

Hey at least your car is a trans am!
My car is just a base model 75 Firebird 350 2bbl and it looks almost as bad.

I found a rust free 75 455 T/A while looking for quarters for it, so now I have 2 projects!

Why fix the base firebird? It was my first car I drove in High School -
Lots of guys can build a car to look loke their first car but I still have my piece of junk!

Your not alone fellow Rust Warrior!
Good luck with the project- Jason

__________________
Jason Rackawack
1975 455 Trans Am - 1975 Firebird 400
  #6  
Old 01-04-2008, 05:18 PM
md1twal3 md1twal3 is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,486
Default

I think Punkey has the right idea...replace the area that is going to restore structural integrity first, a.k.a the trunk. I have a rust project that I am sure needs everything that your's does and then some, and I plan to take the same approach as Punkey and V8TV.

This thread has some great links to videos that show you a few ways to get it done:
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=543716

Good luck, and don't give up, it can be saved! Often times, things do look worse than they are. Once you get the entire tail panel out of the car and have the donor clamped in, it won't look nearly as bad...and that is only 1 panel.

__________________
"My ol' man is a television repairman...he has an ultimate set of tools!....I can fix it..." J. Spicholi
  #7  
Old 01-04-2008, 05:57 PM
70RamAirIIITA's Avatar
70RamAirIIITA 70RamAirIIITA is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Yucaipa, CA
Posts: 170
Default

Wow, those video clips are a great help! I haven't been able to find much information on repairs like this. I'm really glad I decided to post my question after all; it seems like there are a lot of us in the same situation; we have the rust buckets but don't want to admit to it to the PY community for fear of ridicule.

Keep those cards, letters and v-v-videos coming!

Rust Bucket 'Birds of America - Unite!! There is hope for us!

__________________
'70 Trans Am Resto - Where Every Bolt is an Adventure...........
  #8  
Old 01-04-2008, 11:32 PM
niceta's Avatar
niceta niceta is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 542
Default more favorites

heres some more to look at. Hope these help.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2217852/1
http://s126.photobucket.com/albums/p...rent=51TTA.jpg
One of the members here and I think he replaced a few panels, nice work: http://www.hbci.com/~chriss/
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/t...l_2/index.html

I know I have more just have to dig them out

  #9  
Old 01-06-2008, 12:56 AM
70RamAirIIITA's Avatar
70RamAirIIITA 70RamAirIIITA is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Yucaipa, CA
Posts: 170
Default

Hey NiceTA, thank you so much for posting the videos, they are awesome! They show exactly what I need to do!

I'll post updates as I move forward so others needing to do the same type of repair can have even more reference information that's specific to 2nd-gen 'Birds.

Thank you everyone for the information and words of encouragement - you guys are great!

__________________
'70 Trans Am Resto - Where Every Bolt is an Adventure...........
  #10  
Old 01-06-2008, 11:31 AM
Greg Reid's Avatar
Greg Reid Greg Reid is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Palmetto, GA. USA
Posts: 16,167
Default

I've got news for you....Repairing rust buckets that any sane person would scrap is standard operating procedure around here....or any other old car forum really.
That's just what we do!

__________________
Greg Reid
Palmetto, Georgia

  #11  
Old 01-06-2008, 01:47 PM
70RamAirIIITA's Avatar
70RamAirIIITA 70RamAirIIITA is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Yucaipa, CA
Posts: 170
Default

While that may be true, I've also seen people "advise" others with similar problems to either ditch their car in favor of a more solid project base or do a rebody. I've personally had a few people I've been in contact with (including the person I bought the TA from) suggest I take the Esprit shell and use it to rebody the TA.

I guess I should mention that my 70 Esprit is one of only about 2000 that came with a factory 4-speed. I bought it for $2,500 from someone local; it doesn't have the original engine (came with a 70 GTO YS 400 engine) , but it does have the original paint (yellow with black vinyl top), very straight body, nice glass, original black delux interior in excellent condition (70 low back buckets, perfect dash, perfect door panels, etc.). I haven't seen the values of Esprits anywhere near the values of TA's, so I'm thinking I'm better off using all of the parts from it for the TA. My TA is originally a 4-speed car, so I'm going to use A LOT of parts from the Esprit. My TA didn't come with an engine; I've sold the GTO engine from the Esprit and I'm going to build a 400/428 stroker for the TA until I can get my hands on a WS RAIII engine somewhere in the future.

Don't know how I got started on that but I thought you might like a little more history......

__________________
'70 Trans Am Resto - Where Every Bolt is an Adventure...........
  #12  
Old 01-06-2008, 03:04 PM
Greg Reid's Avatar
Greg Reid Greg Reid is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Palmetto, GA. USA
Posts: 16,167
Default

Gosh, I don't know if I could bring myself to part the Esprit out if it's in that kind of condition. You probably don't really care about the resale value above all anyway do you?
If you use that much sheetmetal from the Esprit...Isn't that pretty much the same as a rebody? Just piecemeal?
Not that I'm knocking it. Any way you get it to the way you want it to be is fine in my opinion.

__________________
Greg Reid
Palmetto, Georgia

  #13  
Old 01-06-2008, 03:06 PM
Greg Reid's Avatar
Greg Reid Greg Reid is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Palmetto, GA. USA
Posts: 16,167
Default

By the way, I can't see any pictures if there are any posted. They are filtered out where I am right now.

__________________
Greg Reid
Palmetto, Georgia

  #14  
Old 01-06-2008, 08:24 PM
Greg Reid's Avatar
Greg Reid Greg Reid is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Palmetto, GA. USA
Posts: 16,167
Default

Yeah, I see your pics now...I can see where some folks would say that! There's a lot of work there but I've seen much worse brought back.
Have you seen the thread someone posted a link to from some Chevy forum? The guy that's rebuilding the '61 Impala convertible?
It' amazing.
If those yellow fenders on the roof came from the Esprit, I can see what you mean. I'd probably use it. I was picturing a real one-owner creampuff of a car. Looks like good solid donor quality metal.

__________________
Greg Reid
Palmetto, Georgia

  #15  
Old 01-07-2008, 12:27 AM
70RamAirIIITA's Avatar
70RamAirIIITA 70RamAirIIITA is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Yucaipa, CA
Posts: 170
Default

I know, six in one and 1/2-dozen in the other when it comes to rebody or not to rebody. My reasons for not doing a rebody are:

1) I want to keep the integrity of the TA intact
2) I don't want to risk having any legal issues come up

To me, if I did a rebody, it would just be an Esprit with TA parts on it and a TA VIN - nothing special. The Esprit is far from being a one-owner cream puff; it's not without it's issues. Yes, those are the fenders off of it; I'm going to have TA vents sectioned into them; the fenders on the TA are pretty much rotted and damaged beyond hope. The Esprit has some minor rust issues around the bottom of the rear 1/4's and there's lots of bubbling under the vinyl top which I'm assuming is rust. It's just a very nice donor that was available at a good price that I couldn't pass up. Add in the fact that it's a 4-speed car and it's got almost everything I need for the TA.

I haven't seen the Impala link, do you have the link? There are some awesome informative links other members have posted in this thread, and I've followed your GTO project as well. I was very impressed by the metal patchwork you've done on it.

BTW, what type of welder do you recommend for tacking the new panels in? I'm going to drill out as many spot welds out of both the TA and Esprit as possible, then clamp in the replacment panels, use sheet metal screws to secure the panels and then weld in the holes where the screws are. Is that the correct plan of attack?

As far as a welder, would one of those wire-feed welders like Harbor Freight carries do the job? I know Eastwood carries a spot welder attachment for a MIG welder but can the same type of welds be done with a wire-fed welder?

Here's a couple of photos of the Esprit donor



__________________
'70 Trans Am Resto - Where Every Bolt is an Adventure...........
  #16  
Old 01-07-2008, 12:41 AM
Pontiac_Defender's Avatar
Pontiac_Defender Pontiac_Defender is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Plainfield, WI
Posts: 620
Default

Here's the Impala link...you will be totally amazed at the work this guy has done!

http://www.impalas.net/forums/showthread.php?t=686

As far as welders go I have heard nothing good about one from Harbor Freight

Lincoln's , Miller's, and Hobart's seem to be the flavor

  #17  
Old 01-07-2008, 01:02 AM
niceta's Avatar
niceta niceta is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 542
Default

I too have been watching your patch repairs Greg. Good work, you make it look easy.
As for welders, I bought a Hobart 180. It is 220V wire feed gas Mig. The reason I went this route is I thought I may want to weld bigger stuff in the future (220 VS 110) and Hobart was bought out by Miller so alot of the parts are the same. Nothing wrong with smaller 110V Migs though as they are a little more affordable, do not require larger breaker (can be plugged into wall) and can still weld body panels. I am of the thought that spend a little extra on good quality tools and they will work better and last longer. Shop around and step up to gas mig if possible as the weld wuality is night and day.

The esprit looks pretty good to cut up, mabe you should look around for anouther tail panel and restore the esprit down the road. Just a thought. If you need a lot of interior and hard to find stuff though it may work for doner and save you $$.

As I said before you should get a better idea of what the TA requires by taking it down to metal.

  #18  
Old 01-07-2008, 03:27 AM
70RamAirIIITA's Avatar
70RamAirIIITA 70RamAirIIITA is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Yucaipa, CA
Posts: 170
Default

Thanks for the welder advice; I'll do some looking around and see if I can pick up a nice used Lincoln or Hobart/Miller. I know all of Harbor Freight's tools come from China and are lacking in the quality department.

Believe me, I've been looking for either a tail section or another parts car; no luck as of yet. The thing is, around here you can find cars in decent shape that you don't want to cut into. I found someone selling a 73 Formula for $1,000 on Craig's List that had some body damage. By the time I contacted the guy it was gone. But what do you do, hack into a Formula for the sake of saving a TA? Then on the other side of it you have people trying to sell base model 'Birds for $3,500 and up......

Maybe by the time I get the TA stripped and taken down to metal I'll have found either a tail section or a donor base 'Bird for a good price. Of course, it sure would be nice if someone decided to repop 70-73 tail sections.

__________________
'70 Trans Am Resto - Where Every Bolt is an Adventure...........
  #19  
Old 01-07-2008, 06:58 AM
Greg Reid's Avatar
Greg Reid Greg Reid is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Palmetto, GA. USA
Posts: 16,167
Default

I'm not good enough to really recommend welders, I can only tell you what I got and I've been very, very satisfied with it.
Based on one particular forum member's recommendation, I got a Clarke 180EN from Northern tools. It's made in Italy, is less expensive than Lincoln, Miller or Hobart but it really is a good quality welder. When I opened it, I could see that the circuitry and wiring was very well done and nothing "cheapo" about it. Nothing like the Harbor freight models.
It has infinite wirefeed adjustment (current) and I think 6 voltage setttings. I went with 220 volt also because of the lower current requirements and the ability to weld heavier metal...I figured I could use it for more than just sheetmetal.
It has worked flawlessly for me through almost three rolls of wire. I paid around $500 and it came with auto darkening helmet, wire, gas gauges and a nice metal, rolling cart. I thought the helmet would be a throwaway but it has held up really well and works great.
I would NOT recommend the Harbor Freight welders based on end-user feedback that I've heard and read.

As for spot welding, most folks I know just simulate the spot weld. Punch holes in the top piece of metal, clamp it where you want it to be and fill the hole with your mig welder.
Again, I can't see the photo of the Esprit yet...

__________________
Greg Reid
Palmetto, Georgia

  #20  
Old 01-07-2008, 12:44 PM
70RamAirIIITA's Avatar
70RamAirIIITA 70RamAirIIITA is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Yucaipa, CA
Posts: 170
Default

Sounds good, I'll check into the Clarke unit; that sounds like a really good deal if it came with all of the accessories including the cart.

Did you have any previous welding experience before you started working on your GTO? I don't have any welding experience but I pick up new things fairly easily. I figure I'll practice on some scrap sheet metal parts until I'm satisfied with my welds enough to start working on the TA.

Let me know if you still can't pull up the pictures of the Esprit; if you can't, send me a PM with your email address and I'll email a couple of them to you.

I went to the Impala thread but the photo's don't show up; there's something there that says the bandwidth of the photos is too large and says upgrade to Photobucket Pro???

__________________
'70 Trans Am Resto - Where Every Bolt is an Adventure...........
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:12 PM.

 

About Us

The PY Online Forums is the largest online gathering of Pontiac enthusiasts anywhere in the world. Founded in 1991, it was also the first online forum for people to gather and talk about their Pontiacs. Since then, it has become the mecca of Pontiac technical data and knowledge that no other place can surpass.

 




Copyright © 2017