[4RSFEDGTO]

Looking for some input on what everyone is running motor mount wise on a strip/street setup. I will be driving my car alot and racing it just as much. The new motor should make around 900-1100hp if all goes as planned. The car weighs 3500lbs with me in it and leaves on a brake. It has 3.50 gears and 4000 stall. The motor is a 482ci IAII block, E-heads, with a Vortech YSi and around 20-22psi of boost. Not sure if all that info will help just throwing it out there just in case. Thanks in advance.....

[Chupa]

With that power - I would say motor plates.

I ran mitymounts at 600 - but would plate it at 1000

[Rob B]

Originally Posted by Chupa

With that power - I would say motor plates.

Ditto!!!

We have solid mounts on the wife's car (stock location) with a front plate just to help stabilize and take some of the stress off the block and to give you that warm fuzzy feeling of security.
I used front and rear plates on my car for the HP difference and for future changes in HP.
Both cars drive fine.

[grnmnstr]

Front and mid plates

The front plate needs to be between the block and timing cover. IMO. I'm sure others will disagree.

[bad69bird]

Originally Posted by grnmnstr

Front and mid plates

The front plate needs to be between the block and timing cover. IMO. I'm sure others will disagree.

X2.

[bigchief468]

Front and mid plates at that HP level. I have the same HP level and thru hard knocks in the past the plates are a must.

[4RSFEDGTO]

Who makes the best plates?

[Chupa]

I just did some allpontiac plates... In my opinion they were the best out there for pontiac.

I painted mine with the POR pontiac metallic blue engine paint to match my block - looks sweet and subtle.

[grnmnstr]

I bought my front plate and timing cover for a SBC water pump, YEARS ago through Paul Spotts.

Midplates can be gotten anywhere. Since I have an IA2 with both the Chevy and BOP bell housing, it is even easier.

The BOP front plate is nice also. I would have went with that if it was available when I needed it.

[Curious George]

I was going to install a mid plate with solid mounts. Is there any reason this would be a bad idea? I am pretty limited on space for a front mount.

[bigchief468]

Cracked block!!!

[SLICK1]

I run stock factory rubber mounts with one metal torque strap on driver side, I run pretty decent!

[Tom Vaught]

At 1000 HP the Block will see a lot of stress thru it (be it anchored on the sides with solid mounts or with a flex mount and a torque strap. The force will travel thru the block to the anchor point and try to crack the block at that point (or if a weak point is in the block it will crack there).

Using a Front Motor plate will spread the load more evenly over the block but the block will still see a "Twist" (using layman's terms) in the block.

Using a Rear Motor Plate will take the engine out of the "Twist" mode.
If the Transmission is mounted with a soft rear mount the Rear Engine Plate should still see the majority of the load.

Some say that the IA-2 Block (due to its design and strength) can handle the loads fine with only a front plate at 1000 HP. Front plates are a lot easier to install vs rear plates on production vehicles.

Tom V.

[4RSFEDGTO]

The biggest pain for me with the front plate is it will move my blower brackets forward the width of the plate. Then again I'm sure Mark would make me new crank pulley spacer to make up the difference.

[Bill Eveland]

My buddy on his sbf notched his blower bracket to slip fit over his front plate than had it all welded up together. Seems that would save some alignment issues if it would work on your set up.