[Va68goat]

I've had my car for about 5 years now and I'm ready for paint and body. I have no experience doing paint and body but I did speak with a shop in Northern Virginia. They have a very good reputation. I was thinking of trying to save some money by removing the trim, vinyl top, bumpers and even the paint. I know my car has a bit of bondo on the quarters and doors..fenders seem ok. There is no cracking or chipping but the doors are a little wavy.

Any thoughts on a novice removing the paint and bondo with this tool from Eastwood or is there a chance that I can cause more damage to the metal. I measured the paint thickness on the quarters and door and it's as thick as 50 mils in some area. Should I expect to get new quarters?

Or would it make more sense to use Dustless Blaster. I did get a quote from them for about $1,600. The engine will remain in the car as well as the interior. I'm pretty sure I want to go with a color change as well. I'd like to go with a Pontiac color (Blue Charcoal Poly)

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-contour-sct.html

[dhutton]

Dustless blasting an assembled car is a big mistake imho. That stuff will get everywhere.

I always try to strip with razor blades before resorting to sanding.

Don

[Va68goat]

Hey Don.....yeah I was wondering how bad that could be. I could take off the fenders and doors but I'm not sure how much that would help. The $1,600 quote I received didn't even include clean up. Do you have any experience with that tool from Eastwood by any chance?

Joe

[dhutton]

Originally Posted by Va68goat

Hey Don.....yeah I was wondering how bad that could be. I could take off the fenders and doors but I'm not sure how much that would help. The $1,600 quote I received didn't even include clean up. Do you have any experience with that tool from Eastwood by any chance?

Joe

I have one and didn’t like it for stripping paint. Some guys love them.

Don

[hobbygto65]

I did my entire car with one. Took about 5 days.

[VCho455]

If it was my project I would talk with the body shop about your plans. They may use a different process and your process may conflict. Removal tools like the one you indicated have a tendency to polish the metal and may require the body to be completely sanded to remove that polish and give the metal some "tooth" so the primer will adhere properly.
I also would plan on removing the doors after removing the door panels and glass. If you are satisfied with the door panel gaps drilling a small hole (1/8" or smaller) in each hinge as an index will allow you to use the drill bit as an index pon to reinstall the doors exactly where they were.
With a color change I would remove the door and trunk weather stripping and the door sill plates at a minimum.
You may want to consider removing the carburetor before it goes to the body shop and bolting a block off plate over the intake. That insures no dust or sanding grit gets in your motor or carburetor.

[Rob in NH]

I've used the SCT from Eastwood and it made the job easier, I would recommend it. I've been doing this work for a long time and to me its the best tool for the job other than media blasting.

[Murf]

I’m no pro, so take it for what it’s worth. ��

I used a Mikita variable speed buffer & 8 inch 80 grit Norton 80 grit pads. Like these.

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...gory_Code=SPAR

My thinking was that I need a buffer anyway. Kinda a two birds with one stone thing. YMMV

By the way, Len’s website has a lot of valuable info.

Have fun with it!
Murf

[Va68goat]

Hey Don,
What don't you like about using that tool? Are you experienced with body work? I have no experience at all and my concern was warping the metal etc. I think I've pretty much ruled out Dustless Blaster.

Hobbygto65,
I wish my car was as in good as shape as yours was at that time. I have a feeling I'm going to find some "issues".

Rob in NH,
What are your thoughts on someone without any experience at all using the Eastwood tool? I've watched plenty of videos and I would be pretty careful. Is it easy to cause damage with the SCT?

VCho455,
I'll be taking it over to the shop in a few weeks for an "estimate". You made some excellent points that I didn't even think of...thanks. Any idea how long it takes for flash rush to start?

Murf,
My neighbor is using something similar to that. Good points.

What about using chemicals?

[Rob in NH]

As with any tool that grinds paint down it can cause damage , keep it moving and stay away from sharp body lines. Eastwood sells many different grits to choose from. I used the 40 grit drum to start with because of all the paint and filler i had in my car. You could start with 80 to get a feel for it. Then after its mostly stripped I used a DA sander to finish it up.

[Sirrotica]

What about using chemicals?

First of all I'm no professional when it comes to paint and body, just worked for a guy for a few months after I graduated from high school, doing all the crappy stuff he didn't want to, lots of sanding.

This is how I've always stripped cars, it is messy, but no dust in the air. I don't know if they've taken all the real nasty chemicals out of paint stripper, or if it works as good as it did back in the 70s. If you got it on bare skin it would make you feel numbness around the contact point. Usually only took a day to strip a car back then.

I'm sure breathing in the fumes isn't good for anyone, but I survived it the few times I did it. Using stripper requires no special skills, but if it gets on any weather stripping it usually ruins it. It should all be removed before the process begins. Also the stripper eats bondo, but it usually won't remove thick coats, just the thinner coats.

I had no idea dustless blasting was that expensive, $1600.... All that expensive equipment has to get paid for somehow.

[ZeGermanHam]

Originally Posted by VCho455

If it was my project I would talk with the body shop about your plans. They may use a different process and your process may conflict. Removal tools like the one you indicated have a tendency to polish the metal and may require the body to be completely sanded to remove that polish and give the metal some "tooth" so the primer will adhere properly.

I also would plan on removing the doors after removing the door panels and glass. If you are satisfied with the door panel gaps drilling a small hole (1/8" or smaller) in each hinge as an index will allow you to use the drill bit as an index to reinstall the doors exactly where they were.

With a color change I would remove the door and trunk weather stripping and the door sill plates at a minimum.

You may want to consider removing the carburetor before it goes to the body shop and bolting a block off plate over the intake. That insures no dust or sanding grit gets in your motor or carburetor.

Agree with everything said here, especially the very first part. Embarking upon a process like this where multiple people are involved necessitates discussion among all parties.

I would never perform any kind of media blasting ("dustless" or otherwise) on a car that still has the drivetrain, interior, or electrics installed. I witnessed someone in my shop have his '69 Camaro media blasted with the fuel tank, dash w/gauges & wiring, steering column, and a few other items still installed. Media blasting wrecked all of it, and the blasters were angry for having to even work on a car in that state to begin with because they knew it would cause problems.

As for dustless blasting, I am not a fan and here is why: https://youtu.be/HKBpU20cR-M. Instead of just having dry dust to clean up like you would with normal blasting, the dustless blasting gets a dust slurry into all of the hidden areas and is going to be nearly impossible to remove. That dried slurry is going to trap moisture in the future.

At the end of the day, if you want to save a buck I would tackle removing of all the glass, trim, doors, seals, etc. yourself, but leave the paint stripping to the shop. The expense of stripping the old paint off is going to be a small percentage of the overall cost to repaint the car anyway.

[tjs72lemans]

I'm not sure how much of a make or break budget you have, but I understand material costs have gone up quite a bit lately. You may be surprised and change your plan once you talk costs to your paint guy. I paint my own and the last was less than $3 grand. But, I hear shops can be anywhere from about $8-20 grand. If your car is in decent shape (no rust), maybe you just need to sand and straighten out the waves you mentioned, prime and paint. But, some shops won't do that. They want to know what's under it all, so issues don't arise. If you don't do a color change, that save a lot since you won't need to pull your doors, etc. off. Another thing is an estimate is just that. You may find the painter call to say they ran into issues and it may cost more. or, depending how long it is in the shop, paint quoted this week can be very different several weeks out. Be prepared.

[HoovDaddy]

Sorry this is long winded.
I know your question is about removing paint, but that is usually just the beginning of a major project. I don’t know your car or the history, so based on experience, I naturally assume the worst.
1. Do you have a budget?
2. Have you done a thorough inspection of the car underneath to find out the condition of the doors, quarters and fenders? The top of the quarters above the rear bumper? Trunk drop offs? Outer and inner wheel housings? Floor pan? Even the frame rails?
3. Is your chrome and trim pristine? Nothing looks worse than worn trim on a new paint job.
4. Thoroughly research the shop you are going to use so you don’t get ripped off.

I ask because before you buy this tool you need to make of list of parts that are required for this restoration, the total amount may shock you, you need to be prepared. I had a couple cars that never got completed during my years because the owners ran out of money or their lives changed. I say restoration because you don’t know what is under that paint. Wavey doors and bondo in the quarters is a red flag for caution to me. And so is the vinyl top. I’ve been doing complete builds for almost 50 years and I always go through this with every owner and right now I’m guilty myself for under estimating my own project.

With covid parts prices have gone up considerably in the past 3 months, shipping is through the roof and delays are May through September right now for many restoration parts.
My preferred method is Aircraft Stripper and clean the remaining residue using 80 grit on a air sander. Use a grinder with 36 grit to remove the bondo (it will be a mess). To me, the Eastwood tool is a toy that will be very tiring after a few hours. If you are in Virginia, right now is not a good time to start, unless you have a heated garage 24X7 and can protect the metal with primer. The bare metal will start rusting in just a few days in this weather. Once the car is stripped you’ll be able to assess the job at hand. I would not disassemble any body panels until the car is stripped.

The Camaro below looks pretty nice in the “before” photo, it was a 3 year old paint job. Solid car underneath, we were just going to polish it when I noticed some bubbles on the rocker panel. Got in way more than estimated. You can’t cut corners restoring a valuable car such as a Z28 or a GTO.

The Mustang is a total basket case underneath. The owner had it at a shop that replaced partial quarters and front aprons. The wheel housings are shot, there is no floor left, torque boxes are gone. All the welds are edge welds, it’ll never hold up. Both quarters are cracking at the welds, and it hasn’t been on the road yet. I think the owner was too old to bend over to look at what wasn’t done. Very sad. The wheelbase is 1 3/8” longer on the left side. The floorpan has been on backorder since March 2021.

Just consider everything before jumping in.

[dhutton]

I did not like the SCT because I found it too slow. As I said I always try razor blades first. If that doesn’t work I use my Dewalt 8” variable speed rotary buffer and 80 grit discs. Filler and thick paint might see 36 grit. Makes quick work of it. I also blast jambs etc.

One word of caution. Never sand over a body line. Only up to the body lines.

Don

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by Rob in NH

I've used the SCT from Eastwood and it made the job easier, I would recommend it. I've been doing this work for a long time and to me its the best tool for the job other than media blasting.

I agree 100% , I will add they have a multitude of "barrels" to choose from.
This bad boy is 40 grit and will remove your paint, bondo, etc.

[hobbygto65]

I used this drum.

[dataway]

I used that same kind of stuff except in the form of discs for an angle grinder ... was amazed how fast it was ... took about ten disks to do the whole car, maybe eight hours of labor. Could strip a whole finder in about 45 minutes. Be careful around the leaded seam on the quarter ... it will take the lead off pretty quick.

[goatman55]

I have the Eastwood SCT, and compared to other tools from Eastwood, it’s pretty stout. I have yet to strip a whole car with it, just individual doors and hoods and I’ve found that the black drum works the best for stripping paint (it’s also the most expensive).

I also like the 3m clean and strip discs on a slow speed sander, which appear to be the same material as the Eastwood black drum. I buy them in 7 and 9 discs and smaller discs with a rolock mandrel. This stuff works best at low rpm’s and light pressure.

I usually finish up by going over everything with a DA sander with 80-120 grit, just to even things out.

Dave

[HWYSTR455]

This may sound like I'm going against the general consensus, but, you don't always want to just strip a car to metal. In many cases, it's the thing you DON'T do.

I see so many think they are going to save money by doing some of the 'simple labor' only to make a mess and a much larger job than it should have been to begin with.

I see the look on the faces of body guys that 'come to take a look' at something someone has attacked, and it's of complete disgust most times.

Grinders, wheels, etc, can shink/stretch/heat metal/panels, and once that happens, it's hammer and dolly time, which can be a massive undertaking, and takes skill.

Leave the approach to the body guy, which he's most comfortable with, based on the level of job you want.

And there is a wide variety of 'levels' of body & paint. You can't just say 'Well I don't want a show car', because it's just like saying 'I never will race it'.

Some shops or body guys won't accept rollers, either, you need to talk to them BEFORE you even touch the car.

'Restoration' work is straight time and material, so reputable or not, it can take one person 20 hours to do an area when it can take another 200 hours, and you sign to pay for whatever it takes. Quotes don't mean jack.


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