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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#21
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If it breaks. I didn't want it in the first place. _____________________________________________ 69 GTO \ 72 FIREBIRD \ 1/2 OF A 64 GTO \ 70 JAVELIN \ 52 FORD PU \ 51 GMC PU \ 29 FORD PU \ 85 ALFA ROMEO SPYDER \ A HANDFUL OF ODD DUCATI'S \ 88 S10 LT1 BLAZER & MY DAILY DRIVER 67 SUBURBAN. |
#22
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1. If you are stupid enough to bring a whole running car to a "body shop" you Will get "straight time", which is more or less saying there is a "Hidden damage clause" because the body guy cant see the bare car. 2. So you want to strip the car. You should bag and tag all the trim / handles etc. You CAN strip the body WITHOUT warping. The SCT was designed to reduce the heat that a disc can easily give. ( I dont work for eastwood). 3. Most "body" guys will not give you a menu of prices because their NAME is on it. Most want to SEE the Metal, or primer on it. N0NE will guarantee their work unless THEY start at the metal. 4. IF you strip to have others finish and paint, you are saving them a VERY messy job, and about 20 hours of Labor at say $100/hr. There is $2,000 you can pay the block sanding guy to make the panels flat and nice. 5. Good resto/Body shops do One thing WELL. Its body work and paint. Never have them re assemble a car You took apart. Do that at home with friends. 6. Rollers; I have "shopped" Rollers at many Resto shops, and body shops. On a Trailer that the estimate can be done and car completely seen has Always been acceptable and you Never get any hidden costs.. BUT, There IS a way to PREP a ROLLER for an estimate. Everything MUST FiT. Redo the hinges ( doors and hood), ALIGN the panels REAR to FRont. ALL Panels MUST be on car. Get the gaps as good as possible. This finished Roller is called a PROOF OF CONCEPT.. Same as a Clay mock up when the car was in design. You have Proved to the Body guy that this is NOT a pile of Parts, and they all fit as good as original. ( even if it needs a skin) . When they know they dont have to do anything else, they can give a more honest estimate of time. 7. What you pay for I have said this for years, have worked in a body shop as well. You Spend 70% of your hard earned dollars on SANDING, HAND / BLOCK SANDING. IF you Present a Aligned, assembled Rolling Shell, likely you'll spend Less and get a better job done, and faster, but You will be doing the grunt work, and alignment. An example.
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
The Following User Says Thank You to Formulabruce For This Useful Post: | ||
#23
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Thank you for the denigrating opening remarks. It is possible you may have posted worthwhile information but I didnt get past the opening. It good to know nothing has changed here.
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If it breaks. I didn't want it in the first place. _____________________________________________ 69 GTO \ 72 FIREBIRD \ 1/2 OF A 64 GTO \ 70 JAVELIN \ 52 FORD PU \ 51 GMC PU \ 29 FORD PU \ 85 ALFA ROMEO SPYDER \ A HANDFUL OF ODD DUCATI'S \ 88 S10 LT1 BLAZER & MY DAILY DRIVER 67 SUBURBAN. |
#24
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My point was that what you said ( and I Did read it all) has a market, and it is a Real market for many folks.. I shouldnt have assumed that none are here though. I am sorry you took offense to it.
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
#25
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Thank you everyone for the information...really gave me a lot to think about. I should be taking the car to the shop next week. A buddy and I did the floorpans and trunk pans over the summer so thats good to go. In speaking with the guy at the shop he said he wouldn't have a problem with me removing the trim, vinyl top and bumpers. He said if I wanted to start removing the paint, he wouldn't have a problem with me doing that. My neighbor is an old paint and body guy and I have a brother in law that use to do paint and body. I may give it a try under their watchful eye.
Now I know doing an engine compartment is a lot different than doing paint and body but I did do the engine compartment on my GTO by myself and it didn't come out too bad considering I had never done anything like this before. I guess I'll find out a little more once it goes in the the "estimate". |
#26
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Finished
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#27
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I just hope you don't get it all apart, eventually take it him for an estimate and find it's way more than you anticipated. Especially in todays environment as product prices and labor continue to rise. Hate to see another stalled project with good intentions. I find them for sale all the time.
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#28
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tjs72lemans,
I have a pretty reasonable budget. I know it's going to be expensive to get it done right and I'm not going to half ass it. When I take it to the shop, they'll give me an idea of what I can and can't do. I certainly don't want to do anything that will make it more difficult or more expensive for me. If I have to, I'm prepared to have them do everything but if I can save a few bucks, I would like to! Formulabruce, Some good advice...thank you. I don't have an "unlimited" budget to get my car done. I know there are some issues with fender alignment, hood alignment and bondo on the quarters and doors. I'm not looking for a concourse restoration. The door are a little wavy and the there is some rust bubbles on the lower fender and doors. The paint and body work was done on my car over 17 years ago and it's actually holding up pretty well. Lord know what it's like under the paint but I'll soon find out. I'm not just going to hand the car over to them and tell them to have at it. I think there are some things that I can do to help lower the cost. I'm not scared to get a little dirty and certainly not scared some hard work. What I've learned since owning this car for the last 5 years is that half the fun of owning a car like this is learning and actually working on the car. I know some experienced guys that handed the keys to their car and they were ripped off by a paint and body shop. Really good advice...thanks again for taking the time to write all that! |
#29
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Stripped this 68 GTO shell to metal in about six hours of work with these using an angle grinder, no warping, no problems ... just remember you aren't grinding metal you are removing paint.
I did sand blast areas like the firewall, trunk weatherstrip groove etc. Kind of dirty work ... but it goes fast. I'd do it all day, every day for $100 an hour
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
The Following User Says Thank You to dataway For This Useful Post: | ||
#30
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You know me, "Safety Forst" 68 GTO-Verdoro/Black/Black, what else was available in ‘68? Has to be longest resto in history. 69 GTO Vert-Liberty/Blue/White Top, 4spd, match #’s 68 Mustang FB-Green/Black (Bullitt) |
#31
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They are all over Amazon ... for this job I just used some of the cheap ones ... which seemed to work just as well as the expensive ones.
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
#32
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I used a razor blade to get almost all of the paint off mine and followed with various abrasive type discs on a variable speed grinder for the remaining primer and filler. It's easier to get through once the paint is gone. I even used a wire cup on the grinder.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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