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#61
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Water pump have a cast impeller? All the correct plates are with the water pump? There is a great thread in the Cooling Section of this page. Have you read through those replies?
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#62
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I'm not using the cast iron water pump. I do have the two plates and they are installed correctly. I can't seem to find much when I search "cooling problems". thanks
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#63
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Well, did you bring your timing up to 12?
Did you check your head bolts? These things might not fix it but they don`t cost money. |
#64
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I had one brought to me heating on occasion...owner tried everything.
Recent rebuild on a 4.181 bore 428 with 6x heads purchased somewhere. I decided to pull the heads and found a soft plug in the water passage at the front of the head on one side...opps. Runs a lot cooler with that head flowing water now. Also upgraded to 17 inch core support and the ac radiator with stock shroud and clutch fan and an edelbrock pump. Cam is on 109 center and 32 total...runs 180 all day long |
#65
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Is it possible the electric fans are wired to spin in reverse?
Not sure that would cause the extreme overheating but surely wouldn't help. Check to be sure they are pulling air thru the radiator, not trying to push air out of the engine bay thru the radiator. |
#66
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Yes I did check the torque on all head bolts. I did move timing. I did a compression check on all cylinders all 145-150. Did the test for exhaust gasses in the radiator, could not turn blue stuff yellow. Water flowing good. Seems like too much heat in water for radiator and fans to remove any of it. Temp at thermostat housing and then at the spot where the lower radiator hose attaches to the water pump not much temp change at all. I'm stumped
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#67
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they are wired correctly they are pulling lots of hot air that is for sure. remember I removed them and put the 7 blade clutch fan on and still temp climbed to 250.
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#68
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180 must be nice
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#69
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you are correct the temp only gets to about 109 with the cap off. my mistake
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#70
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what temp would you be looking for at the rear exhaust ports to determine if things were ok?
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#71
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And ditto advancing the ignition timing. 6 deg BTDC may have been the factory spec. It was in '64, my mostly stock rebuilt 389 that runs very cool. But the engine also required leaded premium when new. Gas that is unobtainium today, the lead helped with anti-knock allowing more compression and retarded timing that meant more power output.
So increase the timing but not so much that you induce detonation. Advanced timing without induced detonation will help lower the temp. I haven't checked my own ignition timing (it is on my to-do list) but I am fairly certain it is advanced beyond the factory 6 deg spec. |
#72
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I'm not sure I understand this post. Temp is 109 where?
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#73
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At the thermostat housing on the intake manifold while the engine was running with the radiator cap off. This is as hot as it got with the cap off.
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#74
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It’s pretty common to get air trapped in the coolant system when an engine is removed, overhauled and put back in service. Simply adding water while the engine is running with the radiator cap off does not always clear trapped air. In fact most of the time it doesn’t.
Air pockets can cause hot spots and impede coolant flow resulting in overheating. The most reliable way to refill a newly overhauled engine is to “burp” it with a coolant filled container inserted into the open radiator cap. Fill the radiator as best you can (cold engine) and start the engine. Turn the heater on with the engine running and use a burp can to clear the cooling system of trapped air. I use this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A2CQSU6...n_0_title&th=1
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1964 Catalina 2+2 4sp, 421 Tri-power 1965 GTO, Roadster Shop chassis, 461, Old Faithful cam, KRE heads 305 CFM, Holley EFI, DIS ignition. 1969 GTO 467, Edelbrock 325 CFM, Terminator EFI 1969 Firebird Convertible |
#75
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It looks like you’re ready to pull the head off? I’d urge you to do a leakdown test before you do that. You’ll see bubbles in the coolant if the gasket is leaking (or the head is cracked). If you don’t see combustion gases in the coolant I doubt if it’s the head gasket. That’s a lot of work for nothing if it’s not the problem. What will you do if you get it apart and don’t see anything wrong? BTDT.
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Lee Peterson ------------- "I didn't expect a kind of Spanish Inquisition...!" '69 Cameo White RA III Judge, 4 speed, owned since 1977 -- my first car. |
#76
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Quote:
Verify that they are in fact installed. |
#77
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Without the seals, the water that is pushed into the block can leak around the plate and it just goes in circles inside the pump cavity. Absolutely install the seals and make sure the plates are seating firmly against them. Then make sure the plate is as close to the impellor as possible without rubbing.
The thermostat sets the minimum temperature and has nothing to do with maximum temp unless it's not opening properly.
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Hoping to finish a project while I'm still able to push the clutch in.... 1963 Tempest Convertible (195-1bbl, 3-speed transaxle. 428 RAIV, 5-speed, IRS planned) Pictures |
#78
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Quote:
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=411256 and I didn't mention cast iron water pump, I said cast iron impeller. |
#79
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His 1968 and earlier timing cover/ pump set up does not use those tubes or seals that folks are posting about , so let's stop confusing the guy!
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I do stuff for reasons. |
#80
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Good point. Im not trying to be argumentative. His state's he has a '67 GTO. Has the actual year of the engine been verified? It is a 55 year old vehicle. Lord knows what these cars have been through. Just saying and thanks for your input.
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