[Cammer-6]

first pic is the blasted metal with clear.
still shows the discolored areas

Next was the metallic paint whos top looks like chrome.
what best duplicates bare steel?
in order is:
bare blasted
bare blasted with satin clear
shiny metallic

[TAKerry]

Depends on the finish you are after. Eastwood has a variety of paints to mimic bare finishes. They have bare steel, cast iron, aluminum. All of these are good but compared to the real thing they are not the same. Media blasting does not leave a natural finish and it should be polished out after being done. I have used steel wool, x fine roloc, green 3m to do so. That will leave the part with more of the original untouched appearance. I use a product called 'shark hide' over bare steel once it has been polished to like new. Its a clear coating that does not leave any kind of a sheen. I have parts that I coated a couple of years ago that still look great.

[redbird68]

I like Seymour Cast Blast for alot of things, I use basic silver if I think it is a better match for original. I don't get too picky but try to be close to what I think it would have looked like when new.

Drums (55 tbird) are painted with cast blast

[Red80TA]

Of course, blasted and clean-up metal, then matched to a paint, rarely matched factory bare metal.
Kerry basically said it, I'm not in a reading mood.

[Cammer-6]

Ive used the cast blast and alumiblast.
Of the store bought ones I think the Rustoleum Stainless Steel is about the best bang for buck.
Agree on everything said about the polishing.
Just sampling the general opinion of whats being used,wire wheels work for polishing too.

[Cammer-6]

heres a couple examples of bare steel to show the difference from one part to another.
Ive blasted and painted the instrument cluster pod with the Rustoleum Stainless Steel.
I think as much variation as there is in bare metal this works fine.
None of this will be seen but it takes no more time to make it look as close to original.

[Mcronk]

Gary I like what I see using the Rustoleum products.

A little off topic but another great Rustoleum product is their oil based enamels. I have a open diamond plate car trailer I have had for over 10 years. Living near the east central Florida coast and storing the trailer outside I tried several products to keep from rusting. I have used Ospho as a treatment then applied several products. However the best thing I have found is to use a roller and apply the Rustoleum Satin Black. I did a coat over a year ago when the trailer was in full sunlight (hot) and the paint would literally flow into the cracks/crevices and seal quickly. Even today after sitting out in rain and all types of weather it has held up remarkably. Also I did not get "roller" marks or texture. The paint flowed on smoothly.

I also like the ACE Hardware Rust Stop Satin Black (I think it is made by Rustoleum and is a protective enamel). It mimics the 60 degree gloss black very closely and flows on very smoothly from a rattle can.

[72projectbird]

I use Cast Blast. Looks awesome, and pretty damn close to raw steel

[Cammer-6]

Mark,try the hardner sold at tractor supply and Amazon

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...RoCW0AQAvD_BwE

[burd]

I use the high heat caliper paint.

[Cammer-6]

Originally Posted by burd

I use the high heat caliper paint.

got a part# and brand?
Maybe a pic of it on a part too.

[rwfisher]

Cast and sheet steel have different looks. I use a Cast blast and when dry, hit the areas with alumna blast from about 20” distance in random pattern just to get a little metal like shine.

[Cammer-6]

If you look carefully to the last pic,pay attention to the tin for the in dash tach.
I first blassted it and clear coated to show that look,then next the chrome looking paint
then finally I lightly misted the stainless steel over that.
The speedo pod tin got blasted and stainless steel paint only.