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arbys · 06-13-2011, 06:31 PM

It's possible that it wasn't the main connection. It could have been the blue or brown connector in the back of the alternator. I wasn't looking for it and it was in my peripheral vision.

stellar · 06-13-2011, 06:47 PM

There should be no spark at the alt when connecting the battery. Solder the wire and check the connections in the plug of the blue brown wires. With the key off the blue brn should have no power. If you have power there with key off change reg or check wires for shorting together in loom.

1967Tempest · 06-14-2011, 06:32 AM

With the alternator completely disconnected, hook the positive back to the battery. Still get a spark?

arbys · 06-15-2011, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

With the alternator completely disconnected, hook the positive back to the battery. Still get a spark?

No, I don't. Not with the alt. connected or disconnected. The sparking may have been a fluke.

1967Tempest · 06-15-2011, 03:56 PM

Hmm..... Interesting.

No draw.
No Spark when POS is connected.
Engine runs fine.
No loss of electrical power.
Just low charge and battery light at idle.

Was your car originally equipped with a 63A alternator and you get a 40A by accident?
I looked on Napas SIte and they show 3 alternators for your car.
42, 55, 63 A

It seems that you have everything correct. Is your ground a solid connection? Or do you have 45 years of grease and road grime on the cylinder head and it is the only connection.

Running out of ideas.....

arbys · 06-15-2011, 04:11 PM

I got a 55/63A alt. that is an application for an air conditioned car and I don't have air. Good ground to head,engine was rebuilt and block and heads cleaned. I received a data sheet from the rebuider with all kinds of info. Here's a link to the alternator that I bought:

https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...+50060+2060042

1967Tempest · 06-15-2011, 04:13 PM

Now I am really running out of ideas.

What is the voltage at idle again? Battery new?

arbys · 06-15-2011, 04:17 PM

New battery, 13 1/2 to 14 volts at idle. New voltage regulator also.

Old Goat 67 · 06-15-2011, 04:24 PM

Make sure the firewall & Regulator mounting are grounded GOOD to the engine. Check it with an ohmmeter to the battery negative. VERY essential for the regulator to do it's job properly!

Charles

arbys · 06-15-2011, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

Make sure the firewall & Regulator mounting are grounded GOOD to the engine. Check it with an ohmmeter to the battery negative. VERY essential for the regulator to do it's job properly!

Charles

I just checked and I have continuity from battery to reg. mounting.

george kujanski · 06-15-2011, 05:02 PM

So now you have 13.5 to 14 volts at idle...........that's what it's supposed to be, so what problem do you have now?

George

arbys · 10:04 AM

Could my new battery be bad? This morning it just clicked, clicked, clicked so I put the charger on it. Did 6 amps for a couple of minutes then went to 0.About an hour later I started it and 13 1/2 to 14 volts on idle and up to 16 when revved. I shut it down and disconnected some leads, went to start and click, click, click. Wouldn't start, put charger on it started at 6 amps and a minute or 2 later dropped to 0. Bad battery?

george kujanski · 06-16-2011, 12:05 PM

Voltage should not go to 16 when rev. It should stay at 14, hence the use of a voltage regulator.

You have something screwed up in your wiring, I'd say. You say the reg is new....

What exactly is your idiot lite doing under these conditions?

It also doesn't make sense that you system is charging somewhat correctly, (xcept going up to 16 volts which it should NOT do) and your battery not being able to restart.

Check to make sure that the wire on terminal 3 of the regulator is connected to the battery positive. It should have the same voltage as the battery.

The wire on terminal 2 of the reg should probably be a blk w white stripe. Check that that wire has continuity to the alternator plug end; it plugs into the "R" terminal at the alt.

Just a recheck: you have a alt that matches an external reg, rather than an internal reg alternator, right?

In post #21, you say there is a brown connection to the back of the alt....Where is the brown wire coming from?? that's not normal. The "R" term on the alt should have a blk w white stripe normally. The brown wire in the charging circuit normally comes from the idiot lite to reg term 4 only.

George

1967Tempest · 06-16-2011, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arbys

Could my new battery be bad? This morning it just clicked, clicked, clicked so I put the charger on it. Did 6 amps for a couple of minutes then went to 0.About an hour later I started it and 13 1/2 to 14 volts on idle and up to 16 when revved. I shut it down and disconnected some leads, went to start and click, click, click. Wouldn't start, put charger on it started at 6 amps and a minute or 2 later dropped to 0. Bad battery?

REGULATOR WIRES!!!!
George K is flying blind!!!Show us what you have!!!

Old Goat 67 · 06-16-2011, 03:46 PM

OH, I do love it!

Here is another;

arbys · 06-16-2011, 04:26 PM

I just got back from trying to start my car and go thru George's procedure:

"Check the alt: unplug the connector from the regulator, with the engine running, take a wire jumper, connect it to the battery positive and the other end to the terminal in the regulator connector with the blue wire, the terminal should be labelled "F". The alt output should jump to about 16 volts if the alt and the blue wire connections are good. Obviously don't leave this jumper connected too long.

There should also be a brown wire in terminal position 4. That's the idiot light connection. With the key on, jump terminal 4 (brown wire) to ground, the idiot lite should be bright.

The wire on terminal 2 is normally a black with white stripe, and the wire on terminal 3 should be red or black with red stripe. Measure the voltage on terminal 3, it should always be battery voltage, key on or off.

respond with the results of those measurements."

But when I went to start it all I got was the click, click, click of the starter. It wouldn't turn over. Put the charger on it again and charged at 6 amps for about 2 minutes then the overload protection kicked in and the charger turned off.

Here are pics of what I have.

Old Goat 67 · 06-16-2011, 05:23 PM

Good pictures, George will see it. The rest of us are just wanna-bees!

Charles

george kujanski · 06-17-2011, 01:09 AM

It looks like the alt "R" term is a striped wire but the reg pic is blurry and hard to see.

In any case, if your wiring from reg to alt is correct, and the alt and reg are good, the voltage should be controlled. The alt now seems to generate enuf voltage, but the reg is not doing it's job.

All I can do is direct you to what the wiring should be. You need to check that the connections are correct.

What's the idiot lite doing now? You had confusing reports before. How about a better pic of the regulator?

George

arbys · 06-17-2011, 04:43 PM

The battery light is on bright until about 1100 rpm .
I haven't been able to sart the car because now it's down to 9 Volts and won't take a charge with a regular charger. Battery is 2 week old NAPA. I have a battery tender on it now.

The regulator is numbered 1 2 3 4 from the bottom to the top. The #1 terminal is blue, #2 is Black/white, #3 is black/red, and #4 is brown.

Hope this helps.

1967Tempest · 06-17-2011, 05:11 PM

Have we done a continuity test on the wires? Mainly the ones from the alt to the reg.

Meter set to measure a diode. Arrow to the right with a line in front. should get a beep when you have a short. Short is a good sign the wire is not broken. Is there a fusible link that we are overlooking?

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