The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum

          
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  #1  
Old 06-18-2009, 10:09 AM
daquickster daquickster is offline
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Default probs laying down clear

Hi I'm attenpting my first base/clear job on my daughter's Tempest.. I've done several single stage enamel jobs..here's the prob...when I shoot the clear, it looks like I'm getting a ton of dirt it it! I'm in a relitively clean area and do all the proper steps to clean the car and tack off.. I don't get any dirt in the base or the primers... when I wet sand out the "dirt" it looks like it's little specks of clear!..I tried different settings and distances on the gun still get it...even tried to paint a piece upside down so nothing could get on and still "dirt"! I use a divl finishline conventional gun w/1.4 cap at 42psi and using an MS clear.. I double strain the paint goin in the gun..I'm thinkin' it's the gun..any ideas!! Thanks! Nick

  #2  
Old 06-18-2009, 11:59 AM
dhutton dhutton is offline
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Two things come to mind:

1. Solvent pop. Are you using a fast activator?

2. Did you use a previously opened activator? This can cause fish eyes if the activator has absorbed moisture.

Don

  #3  
Old 06-18-2009, 12:26 PM
Ken K Ken K is offline
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Buy a HF gravity feed gun and toss is after a few uses.

  #4  
Old 06-18-2009, 12:36 PM
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You're using a LOT more pressure than i do. gravity feed gun and 10-15 psi on a test piece and see how that turns out.sounds like the mist is drying(partially) before it gets to the surface.

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  #5  
Old 06-18-2009, 02:07 PM
daquickster daquickster is offline
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the activator was new and was medium..temp was low 70's ..about 40% humid.. I don't think I can go real low on pressure with the non hvlp gun? Hey Ken,,what's an HF gun?


Last edited by daquickster; 06-18-2009 at 02:31 PM.
  #6  
Old 06-18-2009, 02:39 PM
formulapk formulapk is offline
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HF is harbor freight. www.harborfreight.com they sell a lot of inexpensve tools, auto body and more.

  #7  
Old 06-18-2009, 03:33 PM
Ken K Ken K is offline
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40-45 psi on the HF gun is what I set it at for clear. I cut it down to around 25 psi for the base coat. I use a pressure regulator on the bottom of the gun. I pull the trigger and then set the psi. You might also want to use a water filter. You can get the clear to flow with the HF gun. They sell the guns on sale for $10-15.00 each.

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Old 06-18-2009, 04:03 PM
Ken K Ken K is offline
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This is what I use. They have 2 different part numbers. One is a 1.4 tip and the other is a 1.5 tip. You won't know which one will be on sale. Once in a while you might get a gun that last but don't count on it. Use it a few times and consider it a throw away.
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  #9  
Old 06-18-2009, 08:43 PM
daquickster daquickster is offline
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Ken, you are right..they are on sale for 15 bucks! this thing will shoot good ?! I'll try it! can't go wrong for 15$

  #10  
Old 06-18-2009, 08:54 PM
paint guy paint guy is offline
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As dhutton mentioned in his post,take a good look at the hardener.It sometimes will go bad in an unopened can if proper filling procedures were not observed.Pour a little into a clean container and look for cloudiness,or crystaline type particles that will form at the bottom of the container.If either of those two are present,the hardener is no good.

  #11  
Old 06-18-2009, 09:01 PM
Ken K Ken K is offline
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They get the job done. Just make sure there are no loose parts. I run water threw them first to get it adjusted. When they start slowing down, the gun is on the way out. Make sure the vent on top of the cup stays clean.

  #12  
Old 06-18-2009, 09:54 PM
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PLAY400 PLAY400 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken K View Post
They get the job done. Just make sure there are no loose parts.
X2, learnt the hard way

  #13  
Old 06-18-2009, 10:06 PM
Ken K Ken K is offline
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I learnt the hard way on a different brand of paint gun. I used a different brand gun and painted a car with single stage urethane it worked fine for that. Then I tried BC/CC. The gun sprayed the base coat fine but I could not get it to spray clear right. I found out the gun I used were known for blowing the seals out. Of course the paint salesman didn't say anything but he had the seal kit for the gun. That's when I found out you could paint a car with the HF gun. I had nothing to loose after the problems with the first gun.

  #14  
Old 06-19-2009, 07:50 AM
daquickster daquickster is offline
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Thanks.. I'll look at the activator and check for the clouds and specks while I'm waitin' for the $15 gun

  #15  
Old 06-19-2009, 12:41 PM
Ken K Ken K is offline
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I have used activator that was years old and still worked good. You can also buy universal acticator, it's made for different brands of clear. I would almost bet your problem is the gun if it was used for painting other stuff. You can clean the guns out with lacquer thinner. Primer will wreck a gun quick, that's why you want to use a old gun to spray it. I buy more than one of those HF guns when I need them and they are on sale. There is a HF close by. They put out big stacks of those guns and they sell quick. Someone is using them.

  #16  
Old 06-19-2009, 05:20 PM
paint guy paint guy is offline
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The above post refers to "universal activator".Unless the labels specifically states mix ratios for different brands of clear,I would advise against using it for this reason:Just like a correct air/fuel ratio(14.7:1 or whatever it is)ther are stoichiometrics involved with 2k paints,also.The problem is,if one doesn't know the proper ratio,anything you do will be a guess.Heres whyiffering polyols(acrylic,polyester,alkyd,etc)will have a different hardener "demand".In addition,hardeners can be made at different solids(the reactive portion)I routinely sell hardeners at both 45% and 85% solids(guess which one you would use less of?)Since most 2k clears are a blend of at LEAST 2 resins(acrylic and polyester)and the resin ratio is not available to the consumer,and the hardener demand is usually unpublished info,and the hardener solids are not usually published(except on MSDS sheets,and then you have to do the math to figure it out)ANY guess you make is a crapshoot.Not saying you couldn't get lucky,but keep in mind the clear was originally formulated to give optimum properties of hardness,flexibility,mar resistance,etc.and thats why the proper ratio is so important.Besides,if you "over-index"(too much hardener for the polyol demand)the clear can turn whitish when exposed to water(sometimes temporary,sometimes permanent).The other statement in the above post about hardener being years old and still working well:very possible in an unopened container,but if its opened on a humid day,your shelf life(this is urethane only,does NOT apply to epoxy as epoxy is not reactive with water)is approx 2-3 weeks,unless you displace the moisture in the opened container with something like a shot of nitrogen(which is how its done when it is manufactured and filled.)Hope this helps.

  #17  
Old 06-19-2009, 06:58 PM
Ken K Ken K is offline
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I have used activator that was over 2 years old from a previously opened container and it worked. I'm not saying it can't go bad. I have some that is 4 years old and I plan on using it. Automotive paint stores sell different brand activators all the time for use with different brands of paint.

  #18  
Old 06-19-2009, 07:25 PM
Ken K Ken K is offline
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People who live in CA have it even worse when it comes to paint they sell and can use.
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  #19  
Old 06-19-2009, 07:44 PM
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Sounds like a moisture problem to me. May have to take measures to get the moisture out to get good results. Filter after the air comp and the little add on moisture trap at the gun.

  #20  
Old 06-19-2009, 08:05 PM
daquickster daquickster is offline
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I checked the activator and it looks good..no clouds or anything in the can...a friend at a body shop has lent me his clear only gun..SATA jet 3000 1.4 ...I'll let ya's know how it goes...if I get a prob w/ this gun u know it's gotta be me...I do have moisture control...I have a sharpe combo reg..seperator at the comp..then a 60 ci 30scfm dessicant dryer/ filter w/ another final filter on it ..plus one at the gun regulator

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