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#1
10-09-2005, 05:39 PM
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Fuel gauge pegged to full...Even when cluster is not connected!? George...
I'm having an issue with my fuel gauge. I have been through countless threads on this site, but have not found anything quite the same. Let me first say that I am not an electrician by any stretch of the imagination, but I know my way around cars pretty well.
My fuel gauge is always reading "FULL". It doesn't fluctuate or bounce or peg so for to the right or left that the needle disappears. It is just always on the "FULL" mark. I have tried everything to make it move even the slightest bit. I have grounded the connector in the trunk...but got nothing. I have disconnected the battery....nope. I have completely removed the gauge cluster from the vehicle and still the same "FULL" reading. I thought maybe the needle was stuck, until I saw what looked to be heat or fire damage on the thin circuit card (for lack of the proper name) that lines the back of the cluster. As I pressed and pushed on different area, things started to happen (yes, I had it plugged in at the time). My dash lights, that have been out for a few months, suddenly decided to work again. As I continued to press in different areas, the fuel gauge fell quickly to below "EMPTY", and stayed there no matter what I did, until I applied ground to the cluster, and then it would shoot back up to full. I am lost. I have read a lot of threads saying to clean the grounds. Are there others besides the one on the middle bolt that comes out of the fuel gauge? How do I test resistance? I mean, which probes need to go to which conections (specifically please)? Am I missing something? I guess a little vehicle info would be nice. It is a 1969 GTO (clone) 350 Auto. Is really a 69 LeMans, I have been told it is a Sustom S, but I don't know how to tell one way or the other. George, you know this car from the hide-away headlight switch fires and numerous other times I have contacted you for information. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance. Todd
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If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is. Last edited by TheMinorDetails; 10-09-2005 at 07:50 PM. |
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#2
10-09-2005, 08:10 PM
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On my 67 , the fuel guage went to full as i was driving down the road. After investigation after i cooled off i found a broken wire(tan) from guage to sender . Just maybe try looking for a open circuit. body ribbon or at connection from rear harness to body ribbon? check terminals also it could be that the male and female terminals are not making contact?
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#3
10-09-2005, 08:15 PM
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BTW i have replaced all wiring in my car and have had not 1 problem since .
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#4
10-09-2005, 09:20 PM
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The good news I read here is the guage swinging to empty when you were shifting the printed circuit sheet. This shows the guage has not been damaged and is able to work.
I would start by removing the cluster and working on a bench instead. You'll need to measure resistance at all cluster connector plug points to destinations. It sounds like you have a damaged printed circuit sheet. A good way to repair is to use the "Loctite" rear window defogger repair kit. Sold at any auto parts store, it's a conductive paint you can apply with the included brush. Simply a matter of following and marking the break points of the circuits. Another problem area is the push-in connector from the harness. A poor connection can cause your issues. I would use the T.V.tuner aerosol cleaner, works great. But be careful as it will "eat" and fog the clear plastic lens. Carlos. |
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#5
10-09-2005, 10:48 PM
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heres how the fuel guage works most pre80's cars)
+ 12 volts goes to +side (full) of guage, the NEG side of gage goes to sender(in the tank) that is a VARIABLE GROUND, which brings guage needle DOWN as it grounds MORE from the sender to the tank. NEXT the sender has a ground strap to the BODY, which is USUALLLY the culprit when the gauge is maxed at full. Hope this helps, I tried to make it simple. |
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#6
10-10-2005, 06:33 PM
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What's the problem? The way gas prices are these days, everybody would like a gas gauge that stays on full all the time!
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Badder than old King Kong And meaner than a junkyard dog -Jim Croce |
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#7
10-13-2005, 09:01 AM
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Check your connections at the cluster.
Once that is good, if you ground the wire going to the tank it should go empty. If you disconnect the tank wire, it should peg to full. George |
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#8
10-14-2005, 08:24 PM
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You can set the cluster next to the battery and put pos and neg test wires directly to the studs on the back of the gage to verify a good gage. A great way to clean the copper terminals in the connector plugs is with TARNEX copper and silverware cleaner and a toothbrush. Shines'um up like new. If the printed circuit is beyond repair, PY has them.
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#9
10-26-2005, 05:49 AM
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Thanks to all
Just wanted to thank everyone for the help. Andretti nailed it with the circuit card. I was fortunate enough to find one on Ebay with the clear plastic gauge cover for $11, so I am stoked. Andretti, I will try the rear window defroster repair kit on the old one just to see it work. Thanks again.
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If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is. |
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