[tomaszek]

So I bought the 5/16 socket for the oil plug in this 350 block. As you can see the plug actually split on one of the 90 degree corners. So I heated it up Tried on blaster. Tapping it to shock it. I pounded in a 55 torqx bit which was pretty tight but that slipped. So I ordered a bolt extraction kit with all the sockets up to 7/8 to try. So should I just try and left hand bit drill maybe 7/16 into the plug but not go through ? And try and extractor? I didn’t want to drill through bc I have no idea where the shards of metal will go through. I am using cloth and magnets and will use grease on the bit. But I’m freakin out about metal pieces eventually going down in the block. I have the pan off. So I could flush somehow. I only messed with the plug to replace with the drilled out plug from butler. I attached the picture

Or do I drill through the plug all the way with a smaller bit like 1/4” and extractor bit ?

[steve25]

I never try to remove those without first really pounding on them with a big flat nose round punch that just fits into the square .

If you do not have a oxy torch to first put a lot of heat into it then let it cool you really otherwise have to pound on it enough to jar the threads loose.


With where you are now I would drill through it .
Start off with a small very well centered bit .
Then go up to a bit size that will leave you with 1/16” wall thickness before the threads start and then see where the easy out gets you.

In fact I have the punch I use for that job for 40 years and I think I ground it down to get that nice fit in the square.

Good luck to you.

[Tim Corcoran]

In these situations heat is your best friend. get her red hot let her cool about a minute and it should come right out. When you get it hot she expands then when she cools she shrinks, and the heat loosens up the crud too.

[rwfisher]

If you can’t heat it to break it loose get some Kroil and soak it down a couple times and let it sit a while. If there is any space between the threads the Kroil will work its way in…

[Dragncar]

First I would get one of these short screw extractor sets.
https://www.amazon.com/XDOVET-Upgrad.../ref=sr_1_3_ss

Then heat it up and let it cool and give one of these a shot.
Do that before you drill any holes. Only drill if you have to and only with left handed bits.

[chuckies76ta]

I've always drilled these out. I hate extractors, once they break now you have hardened steel to deal with. I start with small bit and drill up to the tap size. Then take the tap and finish cleaning the threads. Just remember it's NPT.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by rwfisher

If you can’t heat it to break it loose get some Kroil and soak it down a couple times and let it sit a while. If there is any space between the threads the Kroil will work its way in…

If there was any space between the threads, the plug would leak.

Originally Posted by steve25

With where you are now I would drill through it .

Originally Posted by tomaszek

I only messed with the plug to replace with the drilled out plug from butler.

Well...yeah.

You wanted to put a "drilled" plug in that hole anyway. Drill the center of that bitch with a .030 drill bit, clean out the chips, call it a completed project.

[sdbob]

Heat.Drill,taking your time. I recently bought some left handed drills but haven't had to use them for problems like yours.I do not like extractors as Chuckie said. Esp in that area.

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

If there was any space between the threads, the plug would leak.



Well...yeah.

You wanted to put a "drilled" plug in that hole anyway. Drill the center of that bitch with a .030 drill bit, clean out the chips, call it a completed project.

^^^ This! ..... Lol


If your sending the block out to have it machined, save yourself a lot of time and frustration and let the professionals remove it. A lot of good suggestions in this thread, they'll all work but none are "easy".. Patience is your friend.

[AG]

Originally Posted by chuckies76ta

I've always drilled these out. I hate extractors, once they break now you have hardened steel to deal with. I start with small bit and drill up to the tap size. Then take the tap and finish cleaning the threads. Just remember it's NPT.

This is what I usually do, works great if you don't have an oxy/acetylene torch.

[Skip Fix]

I always wondered if after heating it hitting it with a spray of nitrous to really contract it would work! With gloves on of course!

[carcrazy]

After heat you could perhaps could use some "cold spray" that is typically used in electronics.

[RocktimusPryme]

First off I agree with others that you should let the machine shop do it if you are sending it out anyway. Or possibly just drill it as mentioned.

I used to work on naval systems and had to get a TON of stuck fastners out because of saltwater corrosion. By far my favorite tool was an extrator kit MAC makes that is basically just TORX bits made out of really hard steel in slightly off sizes. They work great for allen head screws (which is mostly what I dealt with), but I see no reason they wouldnt work there too.

Just let it soak in penetrating fluid, heat it up if you have the means, hammer one of those bits in and remove it. When it comes to stripped/stuck fastners nothing works every time, but that was always my go to first option.

We also had this mechanial impact driver that spins like 1/8 of a turn every time you smask it with a hammer that worked really well too for those screws stuck in because of the salt water.

[GtoFM]

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

I always wondered if after heating it hitting it with a spray of nitrous to really contract it would work! With gloves on of course!

I know the cast iron can take the heat, but flash cooling it seems risky. Might it crack?

[chuckies76ta]

Good info about heating up cast iron. https://www.enginebuildermag.com/200...-of-cast-iron/

[Shiny]

Originally Posted by RocktimusPryme

......

We also had this mechanial impact driver that spins like 1/8 of a turn every time you smask it with a hammer that worked really well too for those screws stuck in because of the salt water.

There's a discussion and photo in this thread (post #2) of an inexpensive impact driver many find useful. Your plug may be too far gone but if you can find one, can't hurt to try it before drilling:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...errerid=160974

[sdbob]

The impact driver has helped me more than once.

[Shiny]

Yes, it seems hoaky but it's effective. It's different than a rotary impact driver - when you hit the tool face with a hammer, it transfers the impact axially, like a punch, but at the same time it provides torque. The beauty of this is the bit, whether phillips, hex, or torx, is NOT going to pull away from the fastener so the risk of "stripping" the socket (or bolt head, whatever...) is greatly reduced.

[SRR]

Originally Posted by rwfisher

If you can’t heat it to break it loose get some Kroil and soak it down a couple times and let it sit a while. If there is any space between the threads the Kroil will work its way in…

This is by far the best penetrating oil you will ever use. I used to swear by PB blaster but Kroil works so much better. I was a little hesitant at first at $25.00 a can but it just flat works.

[RocktimusPryme]

Kroil is great, Mouse Milk is really good too, we used to have that in the flam cabinet overseas. People look at it oddly because its not in an aerosol can but it used to really save us on the hardware when we had to change turbochargers.

My other big trick that people laugh at but I swear by is to use a tool dipped in valve-lapping compound. Its particularly effective on phillips screws that are trying to strip, but it works on any bit to an extent. An old timer showed me that on the airfield my first deployment and Ive been using it successfully ever since. Thats always my first stop before I try something destructive. Helps being able to re-use your original hardware. THe OPs issue is probably too far gone, or too badly stuck for this trick to help though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xk1zrR0FoAk

Not to hock my own stuff, but I did a video on this when I was taking some old screws out of the door sill in my 62. Got a stuck screw out in the sill, and got what I think was a screw that had been in since production in the wire cover underneath.