[Scott65]

You need to connect at the coil+ because that's the only singular point where you have power in both crank and run from the key switch. (Without rewiring to something similar to my earlier post) As you found with your testing, one wire provides power at crank, the other in run. It takes both to do what you need, which is providing power to the Sniper pink wire in both crank and run. Hopefully I'm explaining that well...

[gomowgto]

Yes you are explaining it great, but at the risk of questioning this, holley tech said not to use the coil for any power source. Unless I misunderstood them. What you are suggesting is super easy and I have that relay.

[Scott65]

The coil + is only switching the relay coil. This connects the contacts in the relay which send the power from the separate 12v source to the pink wire. The coil isn't powering the Sniper, it's only switching the relay coil.

[gomowgto]

Makes sense, I will give it a try after lunch.

[Scott65]

If you're worried about noise (which is what Holley is worried about), you can use the other method I mentioned. It's more labor intensive, and likely unnecessary. But it will completely segregate the two.

[gomowgto]

Is 12 gauge too heavy coming from the coil to the relay?

[Scott65]

No. It's a heavier gauge than necessary, but should work fine.

[gomowgto]

Success! I have 12.5 volts in the run position and 9.7 when cranking. And that's with the battery needig a little charge. You're awesome. Thank you so much. I hope you don't mind if I reach out if I run in to more snags.

[Scott65]

I'll help how I can. There are some folks with more direct Sniper experience. But fundamentally I have a good understanding.
ETA: where did you take power from for position 30 on the relay? I'm wondering why it's not the same in both positions. It's probably no big deal, just curious

[JLMounce]

Scott has been on point for this. The biggest thing on these is clean power and good grounds.

I always recommend routing signal wires like your coolant temp and tach signal wires on the opposite side of the engine pay from the power wires. If the wires have to cross for any reason, they should cross at as close to a 90* angle as possible.

The harnesses provided by the Sniper and FiTech are generally too short. Lengthening wires to route them around the outsides of the engine compartment help with EMI issues and helps keep the engine bay clean.

[gomowgto]

#30 came directly from the battery with a fuse wired in. The first number was coming from #87. No power with key off, 12.5 from the coil in the run position and 9.75-10 when cranking

[Scott65]

Sounds like you're good to go. Keep us updated on your progress.

[JLMounce]

I'd charge that battery up and see how much cranking voltage you're seeing with a good battery. I'd like to see that cranking voltage closer to 11v. These systems want to see 10v typically for on operation.

A good way to know if you're fluctuating between a voltage related on/off cycle would be if the engine will only fire if it lights off immediately. If you get excessive cranking it it never fires, the unit is probably not on. You may also find a situation where with the prime shot the engine will fire right away and immediately die. That could also be a sign of poor cranking voltage.

[gomowgto]

Ok guys, thank you so much, battery is on the charger right now and I'm done for the day. I got past this hurdle, it's time for tigers baseball and a beer. I think this is a ood stopping point for the day. I will keep you posted on my progress.