[67drake]

A current thread in the street section made me think of this.
I've been using anti-seize on my lug studs and the surface where the back of my rim meets the hub,for years now, on my daily drivers. This started after I bought a used '88 3/4 Chevy truck years back,and spent HOURS getting the rims and lug nuts off. This is common here in the upper midwest with all the humidity and road salt.
I don't gob it on,just a real thin layer on the back of the rims,after I clean away any corrosion,and just a dab on the lug studs. No more stuck lugs and rims since then.
Problem is I started warping brake rotors too! So a few years back I began to torque my lug nuts to about 10-15% less than specs,thinking maybe I was actually over torquing them due to less resistance on the threads. No warped rotors now too.
Just wondering if anybody uses anti-seize like I do,and if you ever warped your rotors from doing it.

[zephyrracer]

I always torque my wheels to 100 lb never used anti-seize, not a bad idea, rotors warp cause is from not torquing your wheels.

Gregg

[71formula455]

I've been using anti-seize on my rotors, and occasionally on the lug nuts (because it lasts long there) and never had any issues with rotors that I've linked to warping rotors.

I'll also admit I've never torqued a lug nut in my life . . . run it on with air and hand check with cross bar.

[salem1912]

Lots of cheap rotors around even from the dealers. Also ck the adjustment of the rear shoe's if equiped, fronts may be doing all the work.

[zephyrracer]

Always use the premium rotors they are better quality and rarely warped the economy quality rotors are always warped and need to be cut before using something many companies use to make an extra buck and they will always re-warp the premium rotors will at least have one more cut left in them. and always torque them down.

gregg

[67drake]

I've always bought the premium rotors from NAPA. I don't cheap out on my brake parts. Maybe I'm anal,but I always torque my lug nuts to factory specs.
It just seemed weird that on my old Lumina that the rotors would always warp,then it started happening on my wife's Avalon too. I would start to get a brake pedal pulsation a month or two after doing a brake job. Both 4 wheel disc cars. Since I started backing off on the lug nut torque,it has not happened since. Coincidence?

[younggto]

I have always put anti-seize on the lugs and mating surfaces of the daily drivers to prevent stuck wheels but have heard it does affect torque readings; supposedly grease is the way to go. I always torque my lugs and have not had any warping issues in the last 10 years or so.

I do not use anti-seize on these surfaces of the old cars because they do not see the rain, snow or salt, but do use WD-40 on the long rear studs to prevent surface rust, tho.


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[fiedlerh]

I used to put anti-seize on my lug studs on my daily drivers, but I quit doing it and only use a bit on the rotor hub surfaces. The Jap cars plate their studs and use slightly looser clearances on their nuts, so they always come off easy.

On my Pontiac, the cure for hard-to-remove lug nuts has been to replace the studs.

If I do brakes I always take an air grinder with a wire brush to clean off the end of the hub, the inside of the rotor mounting surface and the outer wheel hub surface.

Torque to spec and you should be good to go.

Some Chinese brake rotors tend to warp, but they have gotten better in recent years. If the rotors are getting near their min thickness they of course will warp easier.

I once took my car in for new tires and had anti-seize on the lugnuts. The mechanics' reactions were like Donald Sutherland in the closing scene of Invasion of the Body Snatchers.

[SRR]

Makes sense to me since most torque specs are based on "dry" fasteners. I use anti-sieze and just air gun tighten, not hammer them on.

[elefantrider]

Never put anti seize on lugs anymore. Too slippery. If torque is supposed to be 80lbs without antiseize, with antizeize 80lbs feels like 120lbs to the rim. That force will enlarge steel wheel holes in a hurry. If you do use antiseize, reduce your torque to less than what the book calls for.

[67drake]

Elephant,up here in the midwest,we get a lot of corrosion on our cars from salt on the roads in the winter. I have worked on trucks myself where I had to loosen the lugs, put it in 4 wheel drive low and do hard accelerations,just to get the rims to break free from the hubs. This happens all the time. That's why I started using anti seize on my daily drivers years ago. My classic cars,that don't see snow,it's not needed.

[tooski]

Had a mechanic tell me that anti-seize is not a lubricant. I used it on a lot of mating surfaces on a brake job. He wiped it all off at re coated with bearing grease. The mechanic was involved as the car required safety certification.

[sdbob]

I also buy NAPA.I've been told all rotors made in china....We use little oil.

[rexs73gto]

I've worked or should say worked in dealerships for 33 years, some as a tech as a tech & some in the parts dept. then the last 18 years as a service mrg. I now work out of my house a little bit because of a back injury I can't work full time without going into some kind of pain , but I have taught my techs to use it always on brake jobs but use it to cover the areas lightly so the wheel will come off again. I use a VERY LITTLE on the studs but just for the sake of being able to get them off again. I live in MI close to the lake & it's always humid here & rust take a toll on everything here. Without it we would not be able to get wheels off without beating them off with a BFH. It's ok to use it but use it lightly as it goes a long way.

[67drake]

Originally Posted by rexs73gto

I've worked or should say worked in dealerships for 33 years, some as a tech as a tech & some in the parts dept. then the last 18 years as a service mrg. I now work out of my house a little bit because of a back injury I can't work full time without going into some kind of pain , but I have taught my techs to use it always on brake jobs but use it to cover the areas lightly so the wheel will come off again. I use a VERY LITTLE on the studs but just for the sake of being able to get them off again. I live in MI close to the lake & it's always humid here & rust take a toll on everything here. Without it we would not be able to get wheels off without beating them off with a BFH. It's ok to use it but use it lightly as it goes a long way.

Exactly!
The guys down south don't have to deal with this,or on our seasonally driven classics-daily drivers up here in the rust belt,different story.