[goatwgn]

Originally Posted by 77 Canamman

My message is regarding all of the negativity obtaining R12. My point to all of this is that it is really easy to get your EPA 609 cert. There are tons of deals on E-bay and Craigslist to buy the correct refrigerant. I have been buying it lately for $20 a pound, which is about $5 more than R134A.

A local parts store I used to deal with had it up to a few years ago they would sell to me, and a few other local shops, they eventually ran out. I have seen it on ebay. how did you go about ordering it? How did you prove your certification?? Also, have any of you used one of the Pro6ten compressors?? I love the A6, as I have only been through the original and one replacement in 500000 miles. However, the one in there now is getting noisy (not leaking yet), and i am debating on getting Classic Auto Air to rebuild it over the winter, or replace it with the Pro6ten. May have to start a new thread on the Pro6ten.

[77 Canamman]

The noise from the A-6 might be from low oil level. You can buy NOS oil charge for R12 systems for $15 shipped which will give it 2 oz. of oil and 2 oz. of R12 in each shot.

I have a JPEG of my certification number that I send to the seller if bought online, and I have a cert. card I provide if buying in person. I bought a few pounds at Carlisle last year for $15 a can.

[goatwgn]

Originally Posted by 77 Canamman

The noise from the A-6 might be from low oil level. You can buy NOS oil charge for R12 systems for $15 shipped which will give it 2 oz. of oil and 2 oz. of R12 in each shot.

I have a JPEG of my certification number that I send to the seller if bought online, and I have a cert. card I provide if buying in person. I bought a few pounds at Carlisle last year for $15 a can.

I still have some old R12 oil charge. I appreciate the link. I got my certification card coming, and I printed out the copy for use. I will be switching back to R12 here soon.

[77 Canamman]

Great to hear!

[fiedlerh]

Hey Horst...Long time no chat...How are you?
Have you had any conversations with Classic Auto Air regarding rebuilding your compressor? I'm sure you could do it as well but these guys would be able to give you confidence that it is rebuildable and/or evaluate its condition before you do anything?
Regarding R12 vs 134...I'm not against R12 at all but for those of us that do not have the resources to obtain R12...134 is not as bad as all of the negative hype that seems to be still floating around for some reason?

Doing good, but busy with House/family/kids. Thanks for the tip on Classic Air. My compressor seeps just a bit of oil from the front seal. I would fix it myself, but a special tool is required. I have enough R12, but will not install it unless I'm sure there are no leaks. I should probably replace the 40 year old hoses too.

R12 is easy to find on Craigslist or from relatives. No license needed.
If you get the license, it used to be a $30 open book test. No idea how it is nowadays.
If you have no source for R12 you might as well convert to 134a.

[77 Canamman]

It was $30 a couple of years ago, and it was an open book test. Like most things, it seems to be a money grab. The course is really common sense.

[goatwgn]

Evacuated the R134a at work, drained the oil out of the VIR, changed the dissectant bag, pulled a vacuum on it, put in some r12 oil charge, then just installed the R12. Blows ice cold at idle again.

[fiedlerh]

BTW, what type of oil is available for our old R12 systems if we keep them R12?

[77 Canamman]

Ester oil is safe for both refrigerants, but will not work as well in R12 systems as the refrigerant mineral oil that is used specifically with R12. Mineral oil is less hygroscopic so it is not inclined to hold water and carry it throughout the system. All oils are easy to obtain currently.

PAG oil is to only be used with R134A.

[77 Canamman]

Originally Posted by goatwgn

Evacuated the R134a at work, drained the oil out of the VIR, changed the dissectant bag, pulled a vacuum on it, put in some r12 oil charge, then just installed the R12. Blows ice cold at idle again.

I had the same exact results. My system is the Late 1976/1977 controlled clutch system. I replaced the receiver/dehydrator, condenser, orifice, evaporator, o-rings, drained and refilled the compressor due to age/contamination 2 years ago. I haven't touched it since and it blows ice cubes out of the vents at all times, and cools down quickly.

[goatwgn]

The 134a will be more expensive here in the very near future due to an excise tax that will be put on it because the new cars are gradually switching over to R1234y. So then the "retrofits" will have to pay a premium to be able to recharge with an inferior refrigerant.

[77 Canamman]

Yes, it is time to stock up on R134A for the newer daily drivers..

[rickw]

Classic Auto Air (Florida) can rebuild anything you have on the A/C system. It will come back looking slightly better than new and work perfectly... I worked for them for almost 3 years so I can say this with some confidence