[tinindian1]

Hello Everyone,
It has been a long battle with my recent post on solvent pop. And now it seems as though I have to strip the paint to correct the problem. It's that or wait up to 90+ days for it to cure. Summer is going fast and I want to enjoy some of it. My question is what is a good stripper and how much does it strip? (all the way to primer or all the way to bondo or metal) There is a heavy build up of product due to my last 3 tries at perfection so sanding is alot of work unless thats the best and only way. I worked on a two foot square tonight with 80 grit for an hour and never did hit primer. Thanks for all the help gang I need it. Steven Tulsa, OK.

[tinindian1]

Hello Everyone,
It has been a long battle with my recent post on solvent pop. And now it seems as though I have to strip the paint to correct the problem. It's that or wait up to 90+ days for it to cure. Summer is going fast and I want to enjoy some of it. My question is what is a good stripper and how much does it strip? (all the way to primer or all the way to bondo or metal) There is a heavy build up of product due to my last 3 tries at perfection so sanding is alot of work unless thats the best and only way. I worked on a two foot square tonight with 80 grit for an hour and never did hit primer. Thanks for all the help gang I need it. Steven Tulsa, OK.

[A1Judge]

Sorry to hear about the solvent pop! I pray I don't run into that when I paint mine in a few weeks.

As far as stripper goes, I used Aircraft Stripper that I picked up at the local auto paint store. It took two applications to get down to the metal and worked fairly well. Still a lot of work though...

Good luck!

DC

[Bud Lyons]

When you put the stripper on cover the area with a sheet of plastic. This will keep the stripper from drying out to fast. The longer you can keep the area wet the better it will work.

[RossGN]

If you use stripper, you'll have to replace any bondo as it will be contaminated.

[doug vander plaats]

Ouch, I feel your pain!! I have stripped cars both chemically and by sanding. The plus of chemical is it is faster initially, but will take much prep to save any part from possible damage, and as stated by another, would ruin any body work you have done. If you had the car down to bare metal before and know EXACTLY where every bit of filler is (including factory seams at quater) and can protect it, you could sand just those areas. But let one drop of that stuff on anything else and you'll have more worries yet. I thought I had it all under control when I did a car only to find some had found it's way onto the plastic grille surrounds and ruined them. The time I spent replacing them offset any advantage of chemical strip. I would start with a 60 or worn 40 grit disk with light pressure to 'break the paint', then move to 80/120 to get bare metal. To get a worn disk out of a new one rub two disks together to take off the initial sharp cut, I've even spun them lightly on the garage floor to brak them in. To clarify, you do not want to touch the metal with the more aggresive grit, causing scratches, but you will save a ton of time by roughing it up previos to the 80 grit. Also this sanding can be used as another block sanding that will show any high/low spots. You will not have to sweat bullets when you do respray it wondering if one drop of stripper is hiding somewhere waiting for the pressure of the paint gun to spit it out on your new coat. You have suffered enough my friend, play it safe!

I would welcome any questions you may have on this.

Good luck, painting is not for the faint of heart, and this is a good example of why!
Hang tuff!!!
Doug [img]smile.gif[/img]

p.s. the roughing can be done by manual hand sanding if you are not comfortable with a d.a.

[tinindian1]

Thanks All,
It is time to go to work. I feel I have alot to do and a short time to get it done. I think the sanding is the way to go due to the info on damaging any body work with stripper. It took me every bit of 3 months to blend the body line in on the rear lower quarter replacment. I did a good job I feel, it just took a lot of time. Messing that up calls for a different approach.
Thanks for all the support. If you want a pic of my progress just email me and I will send a quick pic. Steve

[sviguy]

bummer.....let us know when you think you know what the source cause was.....bite the bullet and abandon the stripper idea......not cost/time effective and potential for more problems
lee

[RRF]

I am at the same x-roads myself...strip or sand...

I would like to throw in one more factor, a 22 year old hood decal, cracked and peeling. Also the original paint is crackling and must be completely removed from hood.The decal is not going to just peel off with a heat gun anymore.

Any change in advice?

[73ta]

Just stripped and repainted mine. Started with chemical stripper on the hood. Too messy and time consuming. Stripped the rest of the car including all the plastic bolt on stuff and rubber nose with garnet and plastic media blasting. Worked super.