[DaleO]

After setting up a limited slip axle and adding slicks what is the next smartest thing a guy can do?

[steve25]

First tell us what body type you are making these improvements on, like is it leaf spring, or coil?

[BILL BOWMAN1]

Go to the track, get a few back to back runs and then go from there

[i82much]

Probably Blizzaks or maybe BFG all-terrains.

Oh wait, wrong forum ... my bad!

[4zpeed]

Originally Posted by DaleO

After setting up a limited slip axle and adding slicks what is the next smartest thing a guy can do?

Hope it don't rain....

Is this a street car?



Frank

[steve25]

Yes! In regards to the above post as far as going into a tight turn under hard throttle on a wet road, lol!

It’s a great way to go back to where you where headed from and get your knuckles instantly white!

BTDT a few times!

Ok back to your question.

Replace your hollow greasable stock type U- joints with race ones and then also add a driveshaft loop, this all assuming your driveshaft still has good wall thickness!

[DaleO]

Duh, some data might be helpfull eh?

1967 GTO, 3.23, 428, TH400 with Cliff influenced 9.5 inch convertor. Rear sway bar/boxed control arms. Rear frame reinforcement bars. These noticeably stiffened up the car BTW. Factory replacement springs with coil over shocks which I suspect might be an issue.

[steve25]

In that case get a set of what’s called Hop Stop bars/ anti hop bars.

Also what’s the HP level planed for the motor, and or the ET you would like to turn in the 1/4 mile?

If your looking for making more then some 525 hp then fuel system up grades will be needed while we are talking about working on things under the car.

[DaleO]

Steve25 - appreciate the strength and enhancements.

Steve 65 GTO - know where I can get a lift kit- ?!

Bill - I've had it to the strip once and did a best 13.582/103mph. Was with a stock convertor and marginal limited slip and limited experience : ) An error I think I did was to load up the trans just under 1,800 and "eased" it off the line and then laid into it best I could

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by DaleO

Rear sway bar/boxed control arms. Rear frame reinforcement bars. These noticeably stiffened up the car BTW.

That's a good start.

1. Replace the body bushings and whatever body bushing hardware is needed--probably all of it. The frame is a flexible mess until it's securely bolted to the body.

https://www.chevelles.com/threads/bo...-body.1131908/

2. Verify rear ride-height. The taller the ass-end is, the worse the traction is likely to be.

3. "Drag strip" traction is enhanced with tall, soft springs in front, and drag-race shocks. But that's a disaster on the street, which favors short, stiff springs for handling and braking. OEM springs are closer to the tall/soft drag ideal than to the short/stiff "handling" ideal.

4. My "A-body" '68 'Camino has No-Hop/Hop-Stop bars on the rear axle. Some folks don't like them, but I'm happy with 'em. Mind you, that thing hardly gets driven, and has never been to a drag strip. I plan to change that...someday.

5. A "posi"/limited-slip differential that actually works.

6. If the rear frame-stiffening bars made that much difference...I'd be looking for cracks in the frame.

[DaleO]

I'll look up the hop shop's. Are they bolt on, is there any drilling needed?

[DaleO]

Cracked frame, yikes.....I may have exaggerated a bit. I'm up on jack stands right now so will able to have a good look around.

When I put them on it wasn't addressing an issue as in feeling major loose or something like that, just thought if they were added for manual cars it won't hurt to add them here too.

I'm sure the body bushings have been there from the beginning and I can imagine new would really stiffen things up

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by DaleO

I'll look up the hop shop's. Are they bolt on, is there any drilling needed?

Gotta drill the axle housing in the webs. There's more than one part number for the No-Hop bars, depending on which axle you're installing them on.

And you'll want to be careful about where in the web you're drilling, so the U-joint angles are correct when you're done.

Originally Posted by DaleO

Cracked frame, yikes.....I may have exaggerated a bit. I'm up on jack stands right now so will able to have a good look around.

When I put them on it wasn't addressing an issue as in feeling major loose or something like that, just thought if they were added for manual cars it won't hurt to add them here too.

The reason they were installed by gm to begin with was to "cure" a frame-cracking problem. It's worth a look on your frame.

Originally Posted by DaleO

I'm sure the body bushings have been there from the beginning and I can imagine new would really stiffen things up

Read the article at the link I provided. The run-on words and lack of proper bullet points is not my fault. I'm gonna have to jack them up about making some corrections. Point is, I could tell the car was more rigid just by jacking it up to take the jack-stands out when I was done installing the new ones. I didn't even have to drive it to notice the difference.

Fresh body bushings made a TREMENDOUS difference on my 'Camino. Keep in mind that the 'Camino has the "rigid" fully-boxed frame rails, and the frame is still a wobbly mess when it's not bolted to the body.

[Navy Horn 16]

It's hard to put into words just how much better the Eaton Truetrac vs other styles of limited slip differentials. I highly recommend them.

[mchell]

Fresh body bushings made a TREMENDOUS difference on my 'Camino. Keep in mind that the 'Camino has the "rigid" fully-boxed frame rails, and the frame is still a wobbly mess when it's not bolted to the body.


Reminds me that I have to do something with my 50 year old body bushings

[DaleO]

Thanks Bill for body bushing replacement link. When I'm under there to put the trans back in, and looking the frame over for cracks/damage etc., I'll be noting body bushing interfaces for their condition.

Steve25, I missed your query about my goals. I want to be in the 12's and low would be great. I have to be sensible at this time of family raising so am ensuring I make responsible and efficient steps towards future "growth."

And folks, this is why I really appreciate your experience and insight.

[4zpeed]

In addition don't forget to update control arm bushings.



Frank

[lust4speed]

Seems like I've seen more frame flex than cracking. This photo is of a friend's '67 quarter panel. He had the factory 4-speed frame stiffeners in place since new but over time the bolts had loosened which allowed the bolt holes to hog out and effectively negate any ability to stiffen things up.

Anything over about 1-1/2" lift in the rear will get you into wheel hop. Best to stay close to stock control arm angles.

[mchell]

Originally Posted by DaleO

Duh, some data might be helpfull eh?

1967 GTO, 3.23, 428, TH400 with Cliff influenced 9.5 inch convertor. Rear sway bar/boxed control arms. Rear frame reinforcement bars. These noticeably stiffened up the car BTW. Factory replacement springs with coil over shocks which I suspect might be an issue.

Heads, cam, stall?

The next step is to run it again with a good tire under it.....you may not need any other improvement at the moment.

Just Guessing, but at your current power level with slicks you should have zero traction problems?

If you do find the need, you might want to loosen up the front suspension by removing sway bar, loosening end links, drag shocks etc etc as others have mentioned.

Fun times!

[Chief of the 60's]

Originally Posted by steve25

Replace your hollow greasable stock type U- joints with race ones and then also add a driveshaft loop, this all assuming your driveshaft still has good wall thickness!

With slicks, this right here ^ ^ ^ is the best advice so far.

You'd be surprised just how easy a driveshaft can cut through a floor pan. If that happens you may never have to worry about trimming your toenails ever again. If you know what I mean.