[Tim Corcoran]

I bought a fast ratio power steering box for my 67 LeMans many moons ago and now it's leaking. Need to find the shaft seal anyone know where I can pick one up? Thanks

[rohrt]

If the Input shaft is 13/16-36

https://www.amazon.com/Gates-351310-.../dp/B000C2Y7K0

or

https://www.amazon.com/Edelmann-7095.../dp/B000CGROBA

They are the exact same part.

[nUcLeArEnVoY]

Which shaft? The input shaft or the Pitman arm? One is a way easier job than the other.

[Tim Corcoran]

It's the one connected to the steering wheel, input shaft.

[Tim Corcoran]

Originally Posted by rohrt

If the Input shaft is 13/16-36

https://www.amazon.com/Gates-351310-.../dp/B000C2Y7K0

or

https://www.amazon.com/Edelmann-7095.../dp/B000CGROBA

They are the exact same part.

That is what I need thanks for posting. Got it on order it'll be here Friday.

[bhill86]

Originally Posted by nUcLeArEnVoY

Which shaft? The input shaft or the Pitman arm? One is a way easier job than the other.

I didn’t find either one to be difficult honestly.

[Don 79 TA]

dont know if this applies, but was my issue
i ran synthetic PS fluid and would get leaks at the lower seal
saw some info about that and most just sucked it out and put in regular PS fluid and all was well
fixed my issue
i wouldn't say i had leaks, more like drip spots and wet around the arm, so as i said helped my issue
its dry as a bone and steering is just fine

[Don 79 TA]

dont know if this applies, but was my issue
i ran synthetic PS fluid and would get leaks at the lower seal
saw some info about that and most just sucked it out and put in regular PS fluid and all was well
fixed my issue
i wouldn't say i had leaks, more like drip spots and wet around the arm, so as i said helped my issue
its dry as a bone and steering is just fine

[Tim Corcoran]

I have always ran Dextron ATF in these and never had a problem. The box has been in there for many years works perfect just recently started to leak. I'll replace the seals and be back in action. Thanks

[getmygoat]

Is there a way to get the pitman arm seals out without running the engine and turning lock to lock?

I've watched a few videos on you tube and that's how they get the seals out (in car seal replacement).

Seems like you should be able to hook something onto the seals and pull them out but haven't seen it demonstrated.

Thanks

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran

That is what I need thanks for posting. Got it on order it'll be here Friday.

I hope you have better luck than I did. Similar situation, I bought a reman IROC box for my 67. It was cool for one season. Then started leaking at the input shaft.

I pulled it (HUGE PITA with headers) replaced the seal and it still leaks just the same. Super annoying. It’s very slow, but between replacing the input shaft seal and trying every “stop leak” juice known to man I just can’t get it to stop.

[77 TRASHCAN]

Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran

I have always ran Dextron ATF in these and never had a problem. The box has been in there for many years works perfect just recently started to leak. I'll replace the seals and be back in action. Thanks

You can buy fluid made for power steering, only. I think it might be better than trans fluid, maybe not...

Lucas makes a P/S stop leak/conditioner, it's kinda thick. I use it all the school buses I work on, it seems to be a good thing. The buses all recommend using dexron 3. I use the dexron 3 with the Lucas product. I've had zero issues

[rohrt]

I replaced the input seal on mine over the summer. I followed the 68 shop manual and reset the preload. It still leaks a small bit but not as bad.

[nUcLeArEnVoY]

Originally Posted by getmygoat

Is there a way to get the pitman arm seals out without running the engine and turning lock to lock?

I've watched a few videos on you tube and that's how they get the seals out (in car seal replacement).

Seems like you should be able to hook something onto the seals and pull them out but haven't seen it demonstrated.

Thanks

I just replaced my Pitman arm seals for my 800-series box since they started to form an occasional drip after any time I'd take the car out for a drive. I tried to entertain the idea of pulling out the seals manually . I've seen people tap a screw in and pull them out that way, but I just gave up and turned on the engine and turned the wheel after spending all of 30 seconds with picks before saying "screw this." I didn't want t risk nicking the bore.

If you do run the car to blow the seals out, you'll need to reinstall the Pitman arm on the splines at least partially after you remove the snap ring and put the tires to the ground, since the load of the front suspension fully weighted down is what spikes the pressure enough to blow the seals out. If the Pitman arm is uninstalled, then there is not enough load to build enough pressure in the system.

Blowing the seals out is actually what the GM service manual recommends.

If it's a Saggy, make sure to install the seals in the correct order. The seals I removed from mine that were leaking were in the wrong order, which may have contributed to the leak. The single lip seal is the one that goes in first, then a washer, THEN the double lip seal; then another washer, then the snap ring.

Mine hasn't leaked a drop since.