#1  
Old 08-08-2021, 11:15 AM
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Default frame issues

i cut 2 frames apart from diff manufacturers and am having hard time getting aligned to weld any suggestions i have lasers, string lines, 8 jack stands. i cut behind the lower control arm mount on the upward angle behind the rear crossmember where coils sit.
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Last edited by 72pontiac; 08-08-2021 at 11:22 AM.
  #2  
Old 08-08-2021, 06:28 PM
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all day and now this is what makes all the numbers seem right
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  #3  
Old 08-08-2021, 07:06 PM
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Cut it off three times and it is still too short???

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Old 08-08-2021, 07:58 PM
'ol Pinion head 'ol Pinion head is offline
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Originally Posted by Bill Hanlon View Post
Cut it off three times and it is still too short???
Not sure what he's noting with these latest pics. Main thing I noticed in first pics is difference in width of the front portion of the boxed rear wheel arch area. For better cosmetics, I'd cut a pair of small near triangular pieces to weld on the inside surface of what is now the rear section. In preparing to weld the two bixed sections together would weld some carefully made "stubs" into the inside of either the front OR rear sections. Then after sliding the open section on & double cking alignment, going to need some serious weld penetration.

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Old 08-15-2021, 09:41 AM
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So I figured what better jig then the body. So I bolted it in, and it came together very nicely.
Guess I measured enough times before I cut.
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  #6  
Old 08-15-2021, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72pontiac View Post
So I figured what better jig then the body. So I bolted it in, and it came together very nicely.
Guess I measured enough times before I cut.
You're correct that the body is the best jig, after all, the body is what the 2 halves will be bolted to after they're joined for the life of the car. Good job thinking outside of the box!!

After they're joined properly you'll never know it was done with 2 sperate frame sections. Having repaired many rusty frames, as well as oval track collision damage you'll be just fine as long as your end product measures true and square.

As an example many race cars severely damaged are clipped in the front, or rear, and done in a jig to repair crash damage, and are used after being repaired. I believe you're not going to be able to tell the difference after the 2 halves are joined over an OEM one piece frame.



Funny story in the dirt track world, they used to say when the cars were actually built from former road cars, "they handle best after you hit the wall one time hard".................

One other thing if you're not going for show car appearance, the diamond shaped reinforcement that OPH talked about would be good additions over your joined welds, all major chassis builder usually use them.

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Last edited by Sirrotica; 08-15-2021 at 11:16 AM.
  #7  
Old 08-15-2021, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72pontiac View Post
So I figured what better jig then the body. So I bolted it in, and it came together very nicely.
Guess I measured enough times before I cut.
So for future reference, where do you think the problem was with the measurements / measuring that showed you needed that gap? IDK how long it would of taken me to think of using the car as a jig. Good thinking!

Murf

  #8  
Old 08-15-2021, 01:49 PM
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According to the frame schematic from bottom of frame to top of mount at coil spring tower should be 12.99 when I had it level and where I thought it should be that number was less when all other numbers were right. Essentially the pics with the gaps are the frame lifted straight up not changing any forward or reward measurements but with the body installed with nearly no messing around it came together like I had originally hoped.

  #9  
Old 09-07-2021, 08:51 PM
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it all worked out pretty good ive repaired 3 body mount holes and wire wheeled most of it ordered paint and it showed up so soon it will get paint
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Old 09-08-2021, 01:39 PM
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Pretty damned good job!

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  #11  
Old 09-18-2021, 04:48 PM
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Default Ta da

Frame is painted
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