[64gp4spd]

I am looking to by-pass the original positive wire
for points style ignition in my 64 GP and
replace it with a #12 wire so I have 12 volts to
the Electronic Ignition. Does this wire need to go from
the Ignition Switch to the + side of the coil, or from the
fuse panel to + side of the coil?

Thanks, Rich

[pfilean]

If you are using the old coil I think it should still get the resistance in the circuit. The new wire with no resistor would go to the + in the electronic system. Then the _ off the coil would go to the electronic. At least that is how I think I remember the Pertronix. Others may be different.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

For GM HEI

Your car uses two wires to crank and run. IGN-1/RUN/resistance wire and IGN-2/CRANK/full battery volts & amps for starting. Both wires (two different terminals) run from the ignition switch and come together at the bulkhead/ firewall connector. Then a single wire, under the hood, going to coil (+).

Splicing IGN-1 and IGN-2 together, on the back of the ignition switch, will let RUN power by-pass the resistance wire and go through the CRANK wire. IGN-1 does need to stay intact because it also powers temperature and oil pressure indicators. Splicing the two wires right on the back of the ignition switch doesn't change or hurt how those temp & oil indicators work. That splice is where you'ld want to tie in your new power wire for the distributor.

I've not had any problems using the factory coil (+) wire to power GM HEI. Factory used 12 AWG under the hood and 14 AWG under the dash. The hotter copper wire gets the less amps flow through it. The 12 was used under the hood to compensate for higher under hood temperatures caused by early smog era engines.

Your fuse box doesn't have an ignition feed. It runs off ignition switch accessory terminal. Got a few reasons fot not using it for distributor power.

Clay

[64gp4spd]

Thanks for the quick response. I did not mention that I am using an Accell Electronic Distributor, with a
Petronix Square Type coil. Very simple set up. 2 wires come out of the distributor and 1 goes to + side
of the coil and the other to the - side. I have used this for the last 20 years and used the stock + wire coming
from the engine harness to the + side of the coil. Never had any issues, but Accel does recommend running
a #12 wire in place of the stock wire to + side of the coil.
I may switch to HEI so just looking at some options/upgrades.

Clay, do I just need to put a Jumper Wire between IGN1 and IGN2 on the IGN Switch and then run a #12 or #10 from IGN2 to + side of the coil?

Thanks

["QUICK-SILVER"]

If the ignition switch is fairly easy to access and work with the connector on back.. I'd have to try just doing the jumper wire to see if the engine runs better with the resistance wire by-passed.

If it doesn't have noticeable improvements... I don't and haven't seen any need for adding the 12 awg.

Clay

[64gp4spd]

OK Thank You

[pfilean]

When adding a jumper between Ign 1 and 2 I have feared it would feed into the solenoid circuit and keep the starter engaged. Not a problem in start position only in run position. Don't have my manual with me to recheck the internals of the switch. When I did a similar rewire to power a Pertronix I used a diode between the 1 and 2 to be sure it would not feed the solenoid in run position. Then I still had the original double wire to the coil with 12v on start and resistance on run.

[Jack P.]

Just replace the resistor wire under the hood. Unwrap the harness, find the striped resistor wire, cut it out and replace with #12 TFFN or what you have. Wrap it back up and your done, 12v power.