[Z Code 400]

My efforts to sell/trade my 1975 Formula met with negative results, so I have decided to continue working with it. My desire at this point is to lower the car a bit to reduce the gap between the top of the tires and the fenders.

The fender lip in the front is 28.5" from the shop floor and the rear wheel opening is 28.0" respectively. The P255/60/15 tires are about 25.5" tall. My goal is to have an even 1" gap front and rear, which would roughly equate to a 2.0" drop up front and a 1.5" drop in the rear.

I am sure that drop spindles would be the best up front, but what is the best way to drop the rear??? Spacers????

Thanks in advance...Robert 10851man@gmail.com

[pro-tour79]

do the Herb Adams mod in the rear and a 1" block

[Will]

Don't do the drop spindles, use springs instead. If you lower your car with drop spindles and keep the stock spring rate you're going to be bouncing the crossmember off the pavement frequently.

When you lower a car you need to increase the spring rate to reduce the suspension travel or it will bottom out. Try some Hotchkis springs and see how the car sits with them. You can trim more off if you don't like the results. The car will drop 2X for each X that you cut off the spring's free height.

[Z Code 400]

Will,

Thanks. I have some real challenges replacing springs with headers, but there are some ways around that. I think cutting the existing springs would be a good choice to start with as it doesn't cost anything and the results are immediate.

Who makes blocks for the rear???...Robert

[Murf'sDad]

Your tires are actually 27" tall. The 25.5" is probably a ride diameter with the weight of the car on them. Not a big thing when you are running non-computer but accurate nonetheless.

Stewart

[Zyman]

I agree with Will - stay away from drop spindles, the correct way to lower a car is with the springs. I recommend the Hotchkis TVS or for less money, just the Hotchkis front ands rear springs, should lower the front 2" and the rear 1.5 inches.

[amcmike]

Originally Posted by pro-tour79

do the Herb Adams mod in the rear and a 1" block

What is the Herb Adams mod? What benefits does it have, and can it be applied to a 1st GEN?

[Skip Fix]

Deisel S-10 springs form the early 80s are a good fit and about the right height to drop it some. Stiffer rate so good for cornering.They can be hard to swap with headers but a spring compressor through the lower contral arm can help.

Herb Adam's mod moves the bolt hole for the front spring eye up about 3/4" but it does change the pinion angle.

[amcmike]

Can it be done to a 67-69?

[JC455]

You can remove your springs ala the 64-72 A body method- remove the lower "finger" of the spring compressor, then the upper- should slide off; put the spring compressor in through the upper shock mount hole; reassemble the lower finger; turn the nut at the top to compress the spring.
I'm a fan of Hotchkis stuff. I like the ride they provide- not too soft, not too stiff.
You can reassemble the springs the same way, just remember to clock the lower spring end in the lower A-arm correctly.

[mothermuxer]

I just installed a set of QA1 coilovers on my 75 TA so I could lower it a bit. Besides lowering the car, they ride awesome! Get the 550 lbs springs if you go this route.... I ordered the set with the 450s, and they just bottomed out. Stiffer springs & the adjustable shock makes a nice ride. I'm running 225-60-15's up front, and have got about 2" from the tire to the fender lip. Planning on dropping it another 1/2" or so in the future (ie: this weekend).

[Z Code 400]

Ok....been thinking about this....I need to drop the front about 1.5 inches and I will likely trap the spring with a compressor, using a length of threaded rod through the shock hole and cut 1 coil below the spring.

Now for the rear...what's the easiest way to get a 1.0" drop???

What about this Herb Adams method???

Suggestions would be appreciated....Robert

[Z Code 400]

Originally Posted by mothermuxer

I just installed a set of QA1 coilovers on my 75 TA so I could lower it a bit. Besides lowering the car, they ride awesome! Get the 550 lbs springs if you go this route.... I ordered the set with the 450s, and they just bottomed out. Stiffer springs & the adjustable shock makes a nice ride. I'm running 225-60-15's up front, and have got about 2" from the tire to the fender lip. Planning on dropping it another 1/2" or so in the future (ie: this weekend).

This is the gap I am trying to reduce. Car sat level until I removed the exhaust manifolds, Catylst and Air Injection System...Robert

[mothermuxer]

Originally Posted by Z Code 400

This is the gap I am trying to reduce. Car sat level until I removed the exhaust manifolds, Catylst and Air Injection System...Robert

Yup.. been there. The QA1's definately have enough adjustability. When I first installed them, the gap between the tire & fender lip was about 1/2". After adjusting a bit more (kinda blindly in the beginning), I got a 3" gap. Back & forth 'till I'm where I am today.

Rear spring lowering... I'm thinking maybe get some different shackles that have the bolt holes closer together to lower the rear spring pivot. I know that protouringfbody sells a rear kit with shackes that have 2 holes. He'd be the guy to ask.
http://www.pro-touringf-body.com/

[JC455]

Robert,
Be careful cutting the coils of stock (worn out) springs. You may find that they REALLY drop your front (smacking the pavement along the way). I like to up the spring rate when I drop the car down.
The easiest way to drop the rear is with some aluminum blocks. They are available in many different sizes (some are angled so you may wedge the rear to correct for pinion angle). You can find find them at most any parts store, or go to a mini truck supplier (Fresno has several Pick'em Up Truck stores, low rider/import/mini truck specialty places, etc. that could probably get what you need).

[Z Code 400]

Thanks JC,

I want to make a slight change to the car's attitude....nothing too extreme, just a bit up front to offset all the weight I pulled off...Robert

[Will]

Remember what I posted above - car will drop 2X for each X cut from spring. Randomly cutting "1 coil" is dangerous unless you've measured exactly how much one coil is. If you want 1" drop, cut 1/2" from free length of spring. It really works.

[amcmike]

2nd that. Found out how much cutting one coil on a relatively stock spring can make the hard way. (Header flange scapped pulling up the driveway). Or you should only drive on flat roads.

[Z Code 400]

Pulled front springs today and laid them out. I made a white mark on where I believe "one coil" would be. I need to drop this thing 1.5" in the front, so your advice is appreciated. Does anyone make a poly isolator for the top (flat) part of the spring???...Robert

[Z Code 400]

Now, the factory front springs are 18.0" OAL. The Herb Adams mod cut 1 full coil and the re-shaped the last coil to allow the spring to stan up straight, basically keeping to original 'falt' profile of the bottom coil. Adams also said the 1 coil equated to a 16% increase in spring rate.

A lot of people have said to remove 1" of length from the spring to equal a 1" drop, but the spring's free length has nothing to do with ride height.

Most of the springs I have found, including PTFB, will drop the front 2.0" and I am looking for 1.50" right on the money.

Any suggestions????.....Robert

P.S. If anyone has a second gen that is sitting at dead-stock height, could you give me a measurement from the rubber bump stop to the frame???

Thanks...