[64speed]

My CPP kit came with everything from the spindles our assembled. Just hooked them to the ball joint and went at it

[GT182]

Problem solved. I couldn't get to do it today but come Monday I'll be calling Jon (Scarebird) for the kit I need. No spindle change and no cutting required.

[64speed]

Did you get it done?

[GT182]

My Scarebird GTO B kit cam in yesterday. This morning I did a mock up and all is good so far. Hopefully next Monday or Tuesday I'll have it finished.

This weekend is a bust to work on it as I'll be in Reading, PA for the annual WWII Weekend Friday Saturday and Sunday.

[GT182]

I did a mock up Thursday before I left for Reading, PA and the WWII Weekend I volunteer at. All looks great with the Scare Bird GTO b kit. All I need are short bolts for the caliper. They should be in Monday morning.

[roy381]

Gt could you possibly post all the parts that you needed and purchased to do the complete conversion after the Scarebird brackets. I'm going to do my 67 and that would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance

[GT182]

I'd be glad too Roy.
Mine was finished up yesterday afternoon and it was like having an Alka Seltzer. "Oh what a relief it is."

Do you have power or manual brakes? This is important as it decides how the proportioning valve mounts. No one will ask or tell you this if you get the Master Cylinder as a set out of a catalog. Yes Ames, you are selling a kit for power brakes only, not manual brakes... but know one wants to own up to that fact and let you know. So you actually need two kits to sell, not just one. It all hinges on the brake booster for power brakes. Test fit your kit R129TX to a manual brake A-body and you'll see what I mean.

These parts will also be in the instructions from Scarebird. This list will let you get the parts before the Scarebird GTO B kit is delivered. I highly recommend this kit over any other conversion kits out there. You DO NOT need to change the spindles from drum to disc spindles with the Scarebird kit. Don't let anyone tell you any different. As I know it for a FACT his kit works. And no adjustable proportioning valve is needed.

278 Monte Carlo rotors AX5530 from Auto Plus warehouse
2 A-6 Bearings
2 A-2 Bearings
2 National Oil Seals PT# 8871
2 79 Seville brake hoses..... Dorman H9812
2 90 Celebrity calipers... L and R
I had to get the caliper bolts separately as I have different calipers, but the Celebrity's should work fine.
1 Push Rod Boot - PT# R129TQ from Ames if yours is bad.
Master cylinder from Pirate Jack in Ashville, NC. You DO want the disc/drum proportioning valve if you are keeping the rear drum brakes. The link shows disc/disc. The proportioning valve from the MCK111LM kit is what you need.
http://piratejack.net/mck111dbm-univ...tioning-valve/

Do Not use speed bleeders as we found they won't work... just plain ol bleeders. Use a power vacuum pump for the front conversion.. an AC vacuum pump worked great. It will save you headaches and time. Trust me, we found that out the hard way. You can use the existing brake lines using the screw on connectors. You'll have to bend the line from the rear and use a BL 408 1/4 line added to it for the back of the prop valve. You will need to add to the right front line the same way with 1/16" line. For the left front you need to make up a line up to the proportioning valve. I can add photos later on. I had to bend mine just right to miss the Z bar for the clutch and steering column. But it all works.

Photos:

[roy381]

Thanks GT very much appreciated on the time you spent explaining the process and parts. I have manual brakes and I'm going to stick with manual disc.

[GT182]

Originally Posted by roy381

Thanks GT very much appreciated on the time you spent explaining the process and parts. I have manual brakes and I'm going to stick with manual disc.

Yep, manual disc is good. Mine stops really nice and straight with no jerking left or right like it was when one of the drum brakes was out of whack. That is a big plus not have to adjust them anymore.

One thing I forgot to mention. The lines going into the distribution block might be hard to get off.... all of them. You'll have to heat them up with a propane torch. They will come undone eventually. Mine were the original lines to the car with 52 years of crud on them, and we did get them out. Same for the brake hoses to the drums. Heat them and let them cool for 5 to 10 minutes before you put a flare wrench to them. You might have to heat them up a few times but they will come out.

[AG]

What is the MC bore size? Just to confirm, you used the front disc/rear drum proportioning valve?

[GT182]

MC bore is the same as the stock single MC on my 66. And yes, I used the disc/drum proportioning valve. It is not the adjustable kind..... I wouldn't own or use one.

This is the MC with disc/drum proportioning valve needed from Pirate Jack if your car has manual brakes.
http://piratejack.net/mck111bm-unive...tioning-valve/

The one in the Ames catalog on Page 269 is for power brakes. The PV side bracket will work with power booster only. The PV bracket shown in the Pirate Jack photo is needed if you have manual brakes. That set ( U-shaped lines and PV bracket) is the only way you will be able to attach the MC to the firewall. I've been down that road with the Ames style kit and had to go to Pirate Jack for the correct PV bracket and U-shaped lines from MC to PV.

[64speed]

That’s all well and good but how hard is the pedal and how does it stop? LOL. I MAY go to manual brakes if I don’t have enough vacuumfor power. Hydroboost is a good option too but I am on the fence about it in the event I don’t have vacuum

[GT182]

Pedal is better than when I had drums up front. Stopping is super.... so far with 6 red light test from the shop to the house. Tomorrow I'll have the car out for a Cruise Night and I'll be able to test it more. I'll let you know tomorrow night

Get ahold of Old Goat 67 about hydroboost, and how he makes sure he has enough vacuum. It's one reason he put shoulder belts in his 67.

[MUSLCAH]

Following this thread !

[GT182]

Where's it going Muslcah? LOL

Not sure if I started anything but this is the way to go. Far less expensive than just about and conversion kit out there. The biggest and best was I didn't have to change to disc brake spindles. That was a huge saving in time. I haven't added everything up yet but I'd say I've spent under $400.00

One thing I forgot to add to my list of parts was 2 dust covers for the 78 Monte Carlo rotors. When you order them form a parts store tell them you need the dust covers too. I'll get the part number Monday and list it. The drum dust covers are too small and will not work.

[TCSGTO]

278 Monte Carlo rotors AX5530

Are these 11” rotors? Switched over to the MCB matrix brake shoes and stopping power is night and day better than any store bought shoe and no fade from 120MPH+ but they do have to be adjusted perfectly or they’ll pull like you said. The Scarebird setup seems like a good way to for a disc conversion.

[GT182]

TCS, they are 10" rotors if using 14" rims. But they work just fine for me with my 15" Cragars.

[GT182]

Here's the part # for the dust caps for the 78 Monte Carlo rotors.... 13977 from Dorman Help. 2 3/32" diameter.

Not sure what other rotors they fit, but they do work for the Monte Carlo rotors.

[roy381]

GT182, Excuse my lack of knowledge.I know you said this conversion was for a 66 gto will your parts list work on a 67 as well?

[GT182]

Originally Posted by roy381

GT182, Excuse my lack of knowledge.I know you said this conversion was for a 66 gto will your parts list work on a 67 as well?

Roy I'd say yes, but you might want to call Scarebird just to make sure. Two questions I have. Are you going to use the 67 dual master cylinder or get one like I have with the proportioning valve? And is your 67 automatic or manual?