[fairwayhit]

I'm about to bolt on my 6x-4 heads and realized that the heads and block have both been milled. I believe the deck was .010 and the heads .030.

Do I need to shim the head bolts with washers to prevent them from bottoming out?

[77 TRASHCAN]

You need to put all your head bolts in the appropriate holes in the heads (do this on EVERY engine you build), to make sure you don't run out of threads. If the unthreaded shank of the bolt sticks out past the head surface (or is real close...) you will be jamming the threads on the bolts into the bolt, and possibly damaging the block, and not having the head gasket seal.

THis is something that is easily over looked...

[fairwayhit]

Ok thanks. Easy enough. I should have thought of that...

I was worried that, since the deck was also blocked, maybe the bolts would bottom out. I suppose I could run the bolts into the bock side and make sure they go all the way down to the shank.

[SRR]

Since they are "blind" holes make sure they are in fact clean all the way to the bottom.

[Formulas]

Or you could drop the heads on the block no gasket put all bolts in just hand tight feeler gage under heads to see if they are down on the head

[fairwayhit]

Good idea. I’ll do all of the above.
Thanks, you guys have been a great help.


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[Half-Inch Stud]

Bought a block because somebody used a stock length on a non-stock casting and pulled the Thread out the block while TQing.

I took a risk, and the 2 Heli-coils in the 1 hole are still holding the 95-100 ft-lb TQ.

Point is to be sure each Has bolt has the Stock thread engagement in the Deck. i dont remember but is on the order of 3/4"-1" engagement

[steve25]

Your bolts you use need to stick out from the deck of the head by 3/4" , if your heads or block have been cut then as posted you need to confirm that the bolts do not bottom out in each hole.
With a iron head and factory bolts you do not need to have hard washers under the bolt head unless you need to shorten up on there lenght.

Double check that every bolt will spin all the way down into its hole with just light finger pressure otherwise your torque readings will be off, and speaking of torque you should go up to the required torque spec in 3 steps to get even loading taking place.

[Lee]

Keep in mind that the head bolts are 13-threads per inch. So 13 turns to move one inch, or one turn is ~ 0.077". With reducing the decks a total of 0.040", you'll be tightening the bolts just a bit more than one-half turn further than original.

I run a tap through all the bolt holes, before I even begin to assemble an engine. But it sounds like yours is already together. If still on an engine stand, then rotate so the deck face is angled downward a bit, then run a tap down each hole. I'd then use a can of carb cleaner with the straw attached, and blast out each hole, and maybe follow that with compressed air.

[NeighborsComplaint]

It is damn near impossible to tell whether a head bolt is too long and bottoms out vs one that clamps the head properly. Once you have torqued a few, you can tell though. A bottomed head bolt will go from very little torque to 95 ft-lbs in the blink of an eye. A normal head bolt will creep up to 95 ft-lbs slowly.

[antique69lemans]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

It is damn near impossible to tell whether a head bolt is too long and bottoms out vs one that clamps the head properly. Once you have torqued a few, you can tell though. A bottomed head bolt will go from very little torque to 95 ft-lbs in the blink of an eye. A normal head bolt will creep up to 95 ft-lbs slowly.

Had this happen on BBC mains. Bolt torqued instantly and knew it wasn't right. Main cap was not even clamped.

[Scarebird]

Could go to studs - that would eliminate all doubt...

[Ponchy]

Install one or two bolt WITHOUT the washer.
Don't torque it, just put it on (I wouldn't even use a wrench, just turn the socket with your hand).
Can you seat the bolt head without the bolt bottoming out?
If so, then you should be fine when the washer is installed.

[Skip Fix]

Originally Posted by Ponchy

Install one or two bolt WITHOUT the washer.
Don't torque it, just put it on (I wouldn't even use a wrench, just turn the socket with your hand).
Can you seat the bolt head without the bolt bottoming out?
If so, then you should be fine when the washer is installed.

This! I've had a bock of two that the ARP E head bolts were a hair tool ong even chasing threads all the way down.