[yellow1098]

One more quick bump to ask about those pics before I decide to go pick it up...thanks boys!

[Half-Inch Stud]

Depends on What existing Shifter do you got in the car?

[ponjohn]

What are they asking for it?

[yellow1098]

I just have a stock TH350 in the car now......and they are only ask $300.......what all would I need to get it in my car price wise.....what kits are out there? Drive shaft cut? Flywheel? Cross member? And the big price is this controller situation right?

[1968GTO421]

Originally Posted by Scott65

There are stand alone controllers.
https://www.usshift.com/usq4.shtml
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...0e-subharness/
And others I imagine. I think FAST makes one.

Thanks, Scott. I discovered US Shift is located only about 32 miles from me so they are looking like a great resource.

[1968GTO421]

Originally Posted by yellow1098

I just have a stock TH350 in the car now......and they are only ask $300.......what all would I need to get it in my car price wise.....what kits are out there? Drive shaft cut? Flywheel? Cross member? And the big price is this controller situation right?

If I remember correctly, Half Inch Stud did a full writeup on installing a 4L80e into his Pontiac. You might PM him for info or look through his posts for that thread. It was really complete and thorough.

(You're looking at about $600 for a standalone controller with all wiring.)

[yellow1098]

I’ll try and find that for sure....I’m definitely not that proficient at searching tho.....how much power can a stock 4L80e take?

[Scott65]

Originally Posted by 1968GTO421

Thanks, Scott. I discovered US Shift is located only about 32 miles from me so they are looking like a great resource.

Glad to help. They seem to have a very good reputation at what they do. I will probably use the microsquirt as it will communicate over can bus with my ecu. But if I didn't have efi, I'd use the US shift works.

[yellow1098]

Wait one more quick question before I go pick this thing up.....those pics look like a solid unit correct? Thanks again

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by yellow1098

I’ll try and find that for sure....I’m definitely not that proficient at searching tho.....how much power can a stock 4L80e take?

Jake, of Jakes performance, elaborates on the virtues of the 4L80E, and the weaknesses of the stock OEM build as it comes from GM. The installation of the trans go kit increases the reliability over an already reliable transmission:

http://www.jakesperformance.com/trans-compare/

His take is a stock unit is 450 HP/450Ft Lbs as it comes from GM. With hydraulic improvements, 750 HP. Above the 750 HP point, a billet input shaft becomes necessary. A 750 HP 4L80E is sufficient for most street/strip cars, it doesn't take replacing every hard part in the transmission with billet parts, $$$$, to make it reliable for most street/strip cars.

While you're on Jake's site look around, there is a lot of good info on the 4L80E to be educated about to those contemplating going to an OD automatic.

FWIW, Mark, Half inch stud converted his 4L80E to full manual operation with no TCM used. He trimmed the 2 bellhousing lugs off the transmission to gain clearance, moved the crossmember rearward, and a shortened driveshaft, other than those modifications, it fit into his 68 GTO transmission tunnel fine.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=823023

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by yellow1098

Wait one more quick question before I go pick this thing up.....those pics look like a solid unit correct? Thanks again

Pulling the pan off before you purchase it will tell you much more than posting a pic on the net and asking if we think it looks okay...........

It looks complete, but take that with a grain of salt. I've seen plenty that look fine, until you pull the pan off. Best to find out why he has a transmission out of the truck. A wrecked truck was driving before the accident, probably a good bet that it was operating fine before it was wrecked.

My take is, any engine I can't hear run is worth the price of a core. A transmission that I can't drive the vehicle, is also worth the price of a core.

4L80E cores range from $100 to a high of $300, your call on what it's worth. If the owner will allow you to pull the pan, your chances of buying a good transmission escalate.

One more link to an install of a 4L80E into a 67 chevelle for those that keep perpetuating the myth that the early A bodies need massive transmission tunnel work to transplant a 4L80E into a 64-67 A body:

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/tra...e-installation

[Formulabruce]

If replacing a TH350, why not use a built 2004R ? Cheaper and easier to install, and easy to hook up, same driveshaft as well. I run a stage 3, and it lives behind a 455HO.

[yellow1098]

Cheaper was my thoughts compared to what a stage 3 2004r would cost.......as Sirrotica mentioned a 4L80e only needs a few hydraulic improvements and since I was gonna run a MPFI i would save on the controller No?

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by yellow1098

Cheaper was my thoughts compared to what a stage 3 2004r would cost.......as Sirrotica mentioned a 4L80e only needs a few hydraulic improvements and since I was gonna run a MPFI i would save on the controller No?

What type of car is this going in?
A 2004R would cost about 1900 with adjustable TV cable and Torque converter.
NO work on the "Tunnel" either. Most every car needs tunnel work for a 4l80E.
200 is Bolt in, buy a cross member ( bowtie overdrives) and use same driveshaft and higher overdrive.

[Sirrotica]

This taken from Extreme Automatics website:

2004R Stage III
1000HP|850TQ
$3,695.00

2 Year Warranty
$450 Freshen Up Fee For Life.

I believe he wants a transmission that was designed for maximum strength initially. Not one that needs every hard part made from billet steel, along with freshening periodically. The freshening fee comes from the builder's website. For $4150 initially or $3700 without the freshen up for life he can easily put a 4L80E that will easily withstand 750 HP with stock GM hard parts.

He needs to slide the crossmember rearward, and use a shorter driveshaft, exactly the same thing he'd have to do if he decided to put a T 400 in the car.

Just for comparison, Extreme Automatics (same builder) will build a stage 2 4L80E warranted 1000 HP for for $300 less than a stage 3 200r4 warranted for 1000 HP....... I have to ask which one would be stronger initially, cheaper initially, and which one would last the longest given equal use??

4L80E Stage 2
Up to 1000HP
$3,395.00

There is no "$450 lifetime freshen up" option for a 4L80E on the site. Maybe because the 4L80E doesn't need freshening up periodically?

My 4X4 dually turbo diesel has a 4L80E with 270,000 miles on it plowing, pulling heavy trailers, still running fine, bone stock from GM. 440 ft lbs of torque from a stock engine, my pump is turned up, as well as 4 inch exhaust, oversize crossover pipe as well.

GM designed the stock T 400 for engines over 450 Ft Lbs of torque, the muscle cars all had T 400s as standard issue. The 4L80E is a T 400 with OD added to it, electronically controlled. I would think someone contemplating a 600 HP engine, like was previously posted, would be looking for a transmission that could live a long life behind such an engine, not need freshening periodically, as the builder/seller eludes to. By offering the "freshening service" at the initial purchase, the builder is confirming that the transmission is a wear item, that will need attention periodically.

The T 400/4L80E were designed for HD abuse from it's initial design, does it make financial sense, to try to re-engineer a weak initial design into a HD racing transmission??

The first time you have to pull the transmission out for freshening, or malfunction, you lost the edge in the initial ease of using the 200r4 and not having to move the crossmember or shorten the driveshaft. Doing something over, is doing the labor twice. Actually the poster should be using a new driveshaft behind a 600 HP engine, so that purchase is going to be the same no matter which transmission is going into the car, driveshaft labor is a wash too.

From a common sense standpoint, I'm going to use a design that was engineered from the get go, for the job at hand.

There is no doubt that there is minimally more labor initially to install a 4L80E, you have to purchase a TCM, and plug and play wiring harness, but you can tailor the transmission to your needs and likes with the TCM.

The least expensive TCM is capable of;

1) Correcting speedometer signal, no matter what tire size and rear axle ratio you have.

2)Change shift points, as well as detect slippage internally in the transmission, possibly heading off a major failure.

3) Data logging, for racing use.

The more expensive TCM have the potential to:

4) Change line pressures in manually selected lower gears.

5) Burnout mode for drag racing.

6) adjustable overheat alarm.

The electronic control feature of the 4L80E is a plus, not a negative as many people portray it to be.

The posters can make up their own minds about pros and cons, I just want facts out there, versus the myth that the 4L80E won't fit most cars without hacking up the floor, I see that all the time on PY, and it simply isn't true. The manual 5 and 6 speeds with OD are where the floor is hacked up, the 4L80E may require a small dent to clear the rear speed sensor.

BTW, the least expensive TCM and wiring harness is basic kit is $595, universal throttle position sensor is $100.

The upgraded controller and harness is $725, TPS is the same at $100.

Any torque converter upgrades are going to be similar in price.

By not having to buy all the billet parts to make a 200r4 sustainable, the 4L80E can actually be built for substantially less initially locally by a competent transmission technician, defraying some of the controller costs, and making the end total initial buy in, nearly equal. Most local rebuilders will not exceed $1500 in my area. If you pay $300 for a used core and have it rebuilt with all the updates you could have $1800 in a fresh transmission, half of the price of the stage 3, 200R4. Add the controller and TPS at $825 and you're roughly $1000 less than a 200r4.....

[Formulabruce]

Maybe, just Maybe, he is NOT RACING???
Dont need a 4L80 for a driver, and dont need the work to install and use it.
For most people plug and play works fine..

[ponjohn]

Don't forget the adapter plate.

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by ponjohn

Don't forget the adapter plate.

only for the 700 and 6L80, not the 200

[ponjohn]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

only for the 700 and 6L80, not the 200

HUH - he needs an adapter for the 4l80e.

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by ponjohn

HUH - he needs an adapter for the 4l80e.

$52 at Jegs, part # 60172