[yellow1098]

Sirrotica.....what an absolutely awesome post and info.....and thank you all for your other info and opinions......so looks like the 300$ core is good price? Btw I will be racing it ; )

[Sirrotica]

I spent a lot of time weighing out all the options for a high performance OD transmission for my next project. It will be a 84 Grand Prix street car, with a mildly modified 455.

I have the original 200r4 that it came with, so I already own a good rebuildable core if I wanted to go that way. I also have a fresh T 400, and looked at an aftermarket OD unit to bolt onto the back of that (Gear Vendors). I already own an LS2 2005 GTO with a 4L60 OD, so I'm very familar with 4L60Es.

I then bought a 93 Chevy diesel K3500 dually with a 4L80E which had 217,000 miles on it, was owned by a contractor that everyone and their brother drove. It was abused on muddy construction sites, towed trailers and honestly should be worn out. It now has 270,000 miles on it, and I haven't been easy on it. Still going strong.

Just from a observation of what it went through before I bought it, and what it's withstood since I bought it, I knew it's what I wanted in my next project car.

I'm not worried about shortening the driveshaft, because it's going to be a brand new shaft, not worried about buying a controller, and wiring harness. The chassis it's going in, is an older asphalt late model race car chassis, so I can put the transmission crossmember anywhere it needs to be. The sheetmetal covering the transmission is going to be fabbed, so no worries. I just want a transmission that's reliable, and tough as an anvil, the 4L80E is that transmission.

I have been a mechanic for over 50 years and have built, and driven a string of oval track Pontiacs, the bulk of the cars used T 400 transmissions. The T 400 is 80% the exact same internals as a 4L80E, and they have served me well in trucks and cars, as well as my race cars.

If the 4L80E you bought is clean inside, you probably have a good basis for your project, the pictures appear that it has been rebuilt as the converters were bare metal from the factory, yours is painted. The tag with the numbers on it, that's riveted on the case, looks to be from a major rebuilder for warranty coverage. It probably has all the updates done to it because GM had constant updates from 1991-2013 the years GM made the 4L80E transmissions.

[taff2]

The Transgo 4L80E-3 kits makes the trans full manual, it also has a vacuum modulator in the kit which is optional to fit and gives softer shifts at small throttle openings, no electronic controller needed, and the lock up converter can still be activated via an external dash switch if wanted. Very easy to fit, firm instant shifts, we use quite a few in offroad applications. About $240 on ebay.

[taff2]

ps, we prefer the earlier 4L80E's with the through the main shaft oiling (same as TH400, and TH400 aftermarket parts will fit), we see no more wear on the early units compared to the late solid main shaft units. '97 on was the change to the revised lubrication circuit, and there were quite a few hard parts changes to accommodate this-so don't mix and match parts from an early core to late core etc.
The earlier units also had a bigger (and better IMO) overdrive sprag/roller clutch.

[Half-Inch Stud]

I don't mind the internal lube pipe, but cases with the traditional cooling line fitting location are going to be preferred, for cooling line access.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Advice: If you gots a Pontiac 455, and a Street "musclecar", then the 4L80 is the correct choice, and manually-shifted.

If you got an OHC-6, 326, 350, or a stock 400, then pick anything you can tolerate maintaining (leaks, kick-downbars, Computer controllers, Bands, expensive OD assemblies, promises, etc).

I chose the 4L80; shortcomming is the I resorted to the Garmin GPS as the Speedo; since my Speedo Cable graft soon failed where the tailshaft turns the plastic drive gear. Speedo Drive gear aint turning. Would be nice to see the Dash Speedo come alive. Appears to be a simple fix, but removing the Tailcup has not yet been worth it.

[Murf]

Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud

Advice: If you gots a Pontiac 455, and a Street "musclecar", then the 4L80 is the correct choice, and manually-shifted.

If you got an OHC-6, 326, 350, or a stock 400, then pick anything you can tolerate maintaining (leaks, kick-downbars, Computer controllers, Bands, expensive OD assemblies, promises, etc).

I chose the 4L80; shortcomming is the I resorted to the Garmin GPS as the Speedo; since my Speedo Cable graft soon failed where the tailshaft turns the plastic drive gear. Speedo Drive gear aint turning. Would be nice to see the Dash Speedo come alive. Appears to be a simple fix, but removing the Tailcup has not yet been worth it.

HIS, I just want to make sure I’m following you. When you say “manual” are you referring to no computer control or actually manual shifting the transmission?

I’m dense!
Murf


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by Murf

HIS, I just want to make sure I’m following you. When you say “manual” are you referring to no computer control or actually manual shifting the transmission?

I’m dense!
Murf


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

This kit: https://transgo.com/product-details/4l80e-3/ as has been posted, makes the 4L80E full manual control, no electronics needed. You do have to select your gear manually and upshift, and downshift manually. There is no automatic function whatsoever.

Rossler transmissions also makes a "little black box" that can be used in place of a standalone controller that will also make the transmission fully manual. No transmission modifications are required, just plug it into the electronic receptacle and you're on your way. Problem is with a price tag of $300, you're almost halfway to the price of a regular transmission controller. Link to Car Craft review of the Rossler "little black box: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/junk...transmissions/

Personally, I wouldn't want my car set up with that programming, but to each his own. It will be like driving a stickshift, without a clutch.

[HWYSTR455]

NEVER BUY FROM BOW TIE OVERDRIVES!!! All you have to do is search for my experience, or google them, and you will see why. And just to say, they have some of the lowest pricing of any 'performance' 200r4 shop. If you go to a 'true' 200 expert, it's more.

No mods required for a 4L80e in a 68-72 A body, or a 70-81 F body. You might have to dimple the tunnel slightly, but no cutting needed.

What body are we talking about here?

I did an install thread in '09 for my 71 A body, prices are much better now:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...=4l80e+install

Think there's a link in there that shows the issues I had with BTO. I also did a side by side cost comparison, but again I say the prices for 4L80e stuff is much better now.

Crossmember does need to be modified, or purchase a conversion one. The pad height is lower for a 4L80e. The G-Force crossmember is beefy, but heavy. A number of others make ones that are less expensive and lighter.

I've said it a bunch, you WANT a controller, to run the trans electronically, and you WANT lockup. There's no way you can match the driving experience without those two items, many benefits.

US Shift makes what I consider the best controllers out there, but you pay for it. Unless you're doing something special, the TCI or like ones are fine for most. Remember when pricing controllers, make sure they include the harness, and at least have a TPS kit for carbs if you need one.

It doesn't matter if you're 'racing' or not, the 4L80e is a worry-free trans you can beat on if you want. If you don't beat on it, it will last longer.

I sent my CK Performance 4L80e to CK to be freshened up, after a very abusive @ 90k miles, it didn't need anything, but I had him do clutches anyway. Many have used them behind power, abuse them, and have them last several engines into the future.

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[HWYSTR455]

My original controller was a CompuShift, which are excellent, but pricing is on the high side.

https://www.hgmelectronics.com/

Price is the only reason I say the US Shift is the best out there, the cost of the CompuShift is just hard to justify. But, you can manage your trans via Bluetooth.


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[yellow1098]

How do the controllers work with a MPFI system that claims they have tranny control? Like a terminator x max?

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by yellow1098

How do the controllers work with a MPFI system that claims they have tranny control? Like a terminator x max?

The Holley 4L80e harness plugs right into the Terminator X ECU & trans, and you config it through the Holley EFI software.

https://documents.holley.com/199r11956.pdf

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[yellow1098]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

The Holley 4L80e harness plugs right into the Terminator X ECU & trans, and you config it through the Holley EFI software.

https://documents.holley.com/199r11956.pdf

.

Does your Xflow not do that?

[HWYSTR455]

No, only the Dominator, Terminator Stealth w/Trans Control (based off Dominator ECU), and Terminator X Max have transmission control.

My Judge tribute project has the Dominator, car has a 4L80e, my 'bird project is getting the X Flow, it's a manual car.

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