[jimib]

My mechanic is installing a Moser rear end this week. He will tell me the maximum 17 inch wheel/tire combo will work beneath the rear wheel wells and suggest the best 17 inch wheel/tire for the front. At that point, I’ll buy the reproduction Rally 2’s and hopefully redline tires. Coker has redlines, a maximum of 235’s. Any experience and/or suggestions on wheels/tires?

My mechanic will also install coil over springs. He suggested QA1. I don’t know one company from another. I see options of Single Adjustable, Double Adjustable, and MOD Series. Then the next set of options are Spring rate: 130, 150, and 175. Can anyone explain what these options are?

https://www.qa1.net/automotive/suspe...l-over-systems

[JLMounce]

Why coil-overs? If the answer is I need to be able to corner weight the car at various track events throughout the year, that’s a good answer.

Pretty much everything else is people getting caught up in marketing spin.

Coil over conversions on these cars are not true coil overs. They are a hybrid conical coil spring on a threaded large body shock. The cheaper optioned parts have a pressed on threaded section on the shock body that is prone to failure.

The motion ratio is worse than a coil spring and you’re forcing the stock lower control arm shock mount to carry the weight of the car. It was never designed to carry that weight, only shock damping loads.

A quality lowering spring in a traditional coil will be cheaper, works with the design intent of the suspension and will provide the same level of handling as the pricier hybrid coil over.

The only thing you don’t get with the traditional coil spring is the ability to adjust the ride height. 95% of people will never touch it after they get it set though. Most of the hybrid coil over conversions will lower the car up to 2” from the factory height. That gives you the ability to pick a traditional coil with a correct drop. 2” if you want a low stance 1.5 or 1” lowering for just a little more attitude but a more stock type look.

If you’re dead set on qa1’s here opt for the double adjustable line because the shock body is extruded with the threads on the body.

[i82much]

in my 65 hardtop i have always been happy with the factory suspension and steering. boxed the frame, single piston d52 disc brakes up front, and i am happy as a clam. 60’s cars weren’t that bad!

[jimib]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

Why coil-overs? If the answer is I need to be able to corner weight the car at various track events throughout the year, that’s a good answer.

Pretty much everything else is people getting caught up in marketing spin.

Coil over conversions on these cars are not true coil overs. They are a hybrid conical coil spring on a threaded large body shock. The cheaper optioned parts have a pressed on threaded section on the shock body that is prone to failure.

The motion ratio is worse than a coil spring and you’re forcing the stock lower control arm shock mount to carry the weight of the car. It was never designed to carry that weight, only shock damping loads.

A quality lowering spring in a traditional coil will be cheaper, works with the design intent of the suspension and will provide the same level of handling as the pricier hybrid coil over.

The only thing you don’t get with the traditional coil spring is the ability to adjust the ride height. 95% of people will never touch it after they get it set though. Most of the hybrid coil over conversions will lower the car up to 2” from the factory height. That gives you the ability to pick a traditional coil with a correct drop. 2” if you want a low stance 1.5 or 1” lowering for just a little more attitude but a more stock type look.

If you’re dead set on qa1’s here opt for the double adjustable line because the shock body is extruded with the threads on the body.

Good info Jason, maybe I don’t need coil overs, unnecessary expense. My mechanic suggested them and that’s why I’m looking. I just want this car to be a cruiser, I have no interest in race tracks, just want to drive locally and maybe road trips once in a while.

I really don’t care for the lowered stance that seems so popular. I just don’t like the sag in the rear end. I want it level and possibly a slight rake. Station wagon springs may fix this problem. I do want a tubular front end and a tighter steering gear.

[JLMounce]

I think you’d be happy with a set of Global west springs at all 4 corners. The spring rates are much more appropriate for the weight of these cars and they only lower the car about an inch. It won’t look “lowered” but the stance just has a bit more attitude.

I wouldn’t worry about tubular control arms. Keep your stockers and just make sure there have good quality bushings in them.

Pair the springs with a quality shock like a Bilstien HD or a Koni Classic. Add a .5” tall upper ball joint and a more modern alignment.

You’ll heavily cut down on your expense and you’ll probably be pretty surprised how well the car will ride and handle when you haven’t re-engineered the whole thing but just tuned it a bit better.

If your steering gear and linkages are lose, rebuild those. You can go to a modern gear if you want a bit heavier steering feel.

[62posbonny]

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